SHOOT! Gas In Motor Oil, Coil Melts!! WHAT?!

[Mispeld]

These harbor freight hose clamps are awesome and under $10. They really helped when I did my fuel lines, injectors and filter.

_________________
Tom
1977 Westy. 2.0 Fuel Injected.

[airschooled]

[Mispeld]

Am I supposed to defend suggesting clamps? Maybe I got ahead of myself.
Testing FI Fuel Pressure FAQ https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=175058
OP may need to check fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and possibly leaking injectors or CSV while he's in there. They work great for isolating components.

But maybe not. Probably electrical. Ok, maybe I jumped the gun on the clamps.
_________________
Tom
1977 Westy. 2.0 Fuel Injected.

[jtauxe]

It is odd that the engine runs with a simple carburetor-level fuel pump. They put out someting like 3-5 psi, and IIRC you need something like 15 psi.

So, get a proper fuel pump installed, just to remove that variable. Now you need hose clamps.

To the group: Do fuel pressure regulators get clogged? If there is no way back to the tank, then that would cause problems.

Do not touch your AFM. There are plenty of other paths to follow, here.
_________________
John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD

[UtahGOgear]

Okay, so pulled out the multimeter and started with checking some grounds from the ECU plug. Turns out 16 isn't grounded? I checked by touching neg. to the pin on the plug and pos. to the pos. of the battery. Both pins 5 and 17 showed over 12V so they're good, but 16 is no bueno. I'm not sure where this ground ends up on the harness? I've looked over the wiring diagram and can't tell what's what but I'll try to hunt it down. If anyone knows where 16 is actually grounded, please by all means feel free to tell me

[UtahGOgear]

Also, thanks for the HF clamp referral! When switching out the previous dead FP I used vice grips and this time they didn't quite clamp it well enough... got gas in my eyes and all over my face and my wife wasn't too stoked with the words that came out of my mouth when that all happened!

But yeah... I'm assuming this pin 16 is my problem (or one of them!), so just trying to find out where that connects so I can re-ground it or something. Does this ground even have anything to do with controlling the FI's? I believe they are stuck open because gas leaks out to both of my exhausts (have one running off each side) and so I assume they're all not getting the signal form the ECU ground telling them to come on and off.... is pin 16 involved? Ether way I gotta find it and ground that sucker

[UtahGOgear]

For your amusement- my '09 Corvette exhaust set-up running straight off the manifolds on each side. These are just to keep it quieter as I get it going and continue the search for some cheap heater boxes, exhaust, etc. Kind of fun to hear it growl, but will need a better setup soon for clearance.

[Clatter]

YEAH!
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[timvw7476]

Vette muffler guy: What angle do you take to clear speed bumps?
dayum.

[UtahGOgear]

timvw7476 haha I haven't been able to get her on the road yet! Probably hit 'em straight on and pray that I get some air so they don't rip off Trying to get these FI's to open and close- just searching for the ground from pin 16 of the ECU, I'm thinking it ends up at the DR.

[Wildthings]

All the grounds for the ECU attach to the star under the manifold runs on the left side of the engine. VW did a fine job of hiding them.

[UtahGOgear]

Okay- I cleaned the hidden FI grounds and re-tested and all the grounds seem good as per testing them from the pins on the ECU plug.

It still starts and idles fine without the MAF sensor plugged in, and then dies once I plug it in. All of the FI's are just dumping fuel non-stop. Could it be that they are all stuck open because they sat for like 5 years un-plugged? Could it be that they are all bad and I need all new injectors? Seems kind of a long shot and I'd prefer to not spend all the money on new ones. Next step I suppose is taking them off and seeing what they do when the FP is activated via MAF flap and try to figure things out... if it's a wiring problem, is there any other wire(s) I should be checking other than the grounds?

[UtahGOgear]

I went to test it out and had left the ignition on by mistake. The coil and reducer? (the thing above the double relay) were scorching hot. I think there's a live wire somewhere that's touching ground. Would this explain it? I'm going to have to search high and low as the PO messed with the wiring big time and there are kind of wires all over the place. I don't know if this is for sure, but really I don't think things should get as hot as they do after just one or two minutes with the ignition on. They get hot to the touch- like hot enough to burn off skin. The only thing I can think of is that there's a wire somewhere that's touching ground and has to do with the ignition being turned on. Pretty broad, huh? I just don't know if there's another explanation for the "stuck open" FI's and the hot components that are touching ground. Maybe I'm totally off...

[Wildthings]

With the key on, but the engine not running do the injectors spray?

Have you tried a noid light to verify that the injectors are getting a pulsing signal.

[UtahGOgear]

I'll check in a few hours and see! No, I haven't used a light or anything, I'll go borrow one from AZ if they have em. Things got hot with just the key turned in the ignition, not while it was running.

[UtahGOgear]

I don't think they spray though with the engine off because no gas spills. It only does with the AFM plugged in and running

[Volswagon]

I wonder if having the band clamp too tight on the coil caused the leak?

Those open holes on the bottom of your fan housing are costing you precious cooling air. Duct tape or something now!!! YWIA.
Plus the heat rising from the mufflers is cooking your heads. We are not amused.

I can recommend the Danish heater boxes, the fit is perfect. This is an early model box.
I've been dealing with beaters on mine since '98. I was so exited I almost bolted it on without the riser pipe again.

_________________
I know the pieces fit, cos I watched them fall away.
Wanna hear God laugh? Just talk about your plans.

'75 Bus https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=697183&highlight=

[Mispeld]

[UtahGOgear]

Volswagon - that's a nice looking heater box! The vette exhaust is temporary, and I have yet to install finishing touches like the engine seal and other odds and ends to really drive it around- just trying to get it to run okay so that I can drive it a block to the gas station and back! I don't mean to seem so daft with my ghetto set-up, we have an apartment complex next to our home and I just hated hearing it run so loud with no exhaust! All in good time though... when that money tree of ours starts sprouting a bit more green that's when the heater box, seals, hoses, etc will come into play, just not currently the time or season. Heck, our money tree seems to still think it's fall

[Volswagon]

I understand the money issue well. You shouldn't run it like that in this heat.
Those holes I mentioned blow air through the heater boxes in winter when heat is not an issue.
You'll toast that motor with them open, if it's not already.
_________________
I know the pieces fit, cos I watched them fall away.
Wanna hear God laugh? Just talk about your plans.

'75 Bus https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=697183&highlight=