Clutch dragging cant go into 1st (Morro Bay-broken disc springs)

[Abscate]

Shock and Vibration man, shock and vibration. The carry the full horsepower of the engine and feel torque in both directions each time you accelerate and/or lift/brake,
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.ssS!

[Gizmoman]

http://products.lelubricants.com/Asset/9919.pdf

That looks like some pretty fancy lube. No wonder your not tossing it out - not to mention the "ultra filtering" of the Sodo system

Good to hear your back on the road and with a new sexy clutch plate as well!
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82 Vanagon Westy - AAZ 1.9 TD, HE200 Holset, WAIC, 27.75 dia tires, Electric power steering, 5-speed AAP w/.078 5th
Oversize spare carrier - stock location (no longer for sale).

[E1]

[Sodo]

Probably grease oozing out. __I bet__ at 36 ft-lbs there’s enough remaining torque (bolt stretch) that you don’t need to put it back at 36.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[E1]

Beauty Tom, Thanks.
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‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[Sodo]

[IdahoDoug]

Yup. If the fastener is at torque and that torque is correct to create clamping forces between two metal parts that keep them from moving against the forces expected to try to move them, then all is well.

That's a good question on why the CV joints need retorquing. Here's a thought. Wonder if the CV bolts (or any bolt) once at torque have a slight "barber pole" twist in the fastener. Keeping the fastener from untwisting is the head on one end and the threads on the other. What if it is the threads that let loose (from vibration, thermal cycling) and the threaded end untwists to relieve the twisted bolt. That would reduce clamping pressure and bolt head torque.

What's interesting about that theory is that it would be better if the head end moved as there'd be no clamping pressure reduction. It's impossible, because the head end contact surface is larger in diameter, and takes more torque to move than the threads. But I digress. Which is the perfect thing to do to one of Tom's threads while he's unable to check in and busy driving.

So everybody check in and take this to a wacky, illogical conclusion so he's got something to do when he stops for gas, and some Cheetos.....
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[E1]

So far as conclusions for Sodo's Cheeto Binge & Reading Adventure, Sodo, your van is actually a Dodge!

You nailed the source of my wonders, Doug.

It'd be interesting to mark the bolt heads and surrounding point at first torque . If torque lessened, but head marks were same, I'd suspect new-metal compression at first torque (seems unlikely...), but bolthead-to-first thread stretch more. One reason is while younger and hackier I broke plenty of Allen Heads if over torqued and always right at the head-thread area. Weakest point, and maybe weakened while stretching.

We used to mark Allen positions on various kart racing bits, like the aluminum wet clutch cover. The aluminum would settle in at first and cause oil seeps, but that clutch certainly got waaaay hotter than a CV.

So hence my ask. If loosening torque on hardware was a constant thing to micro-manage, my van would be at the head of a 50,000-mile trail of bits by now.
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‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[Sodo]

Mrs Sodo is driving and he’s sitting in the back seat floggin his iPhone.

Yes the barber pole is a component, there has to be twist but does it go away? Does it untwist? It would untwist immediately if there was a needle bearing under the head.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[AZ Landshaper]

Good to hear your rolling north. Kids at school and the vans back in shape. Another story for the folks back home who's lives are far less exciting.
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Support Small Business.

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85 Weekender w/ EJ22
Previously
64, 71, 72, 73, 76, 81, 84, 85 & 87 Campmobiles and Westfalias
and a 67 bug.

[IdahoDoug]

My 944 has a specific retorque required for the head after a head gasket replacement. I've always assumed it was due to the gasket compressing after a couple dozen heat cycles and possibly the "barber pole" effect of each fastener unwinding a % of the twist.

Axle/hub interfaces have always struck me as kind of odd ducks. I feel the CV bolts are too wimpy/stretchy/fragile on the Vanagon. And on my mighty LandCruisers (easily could put 10X the torque to one wheel) the critical equivalent bolts are these skinny bolts with weird tapered split washers. Cruiserheads are constantly overtorquing and snapping them. I dunno what is is with fastners in these areas but it seems like an automotive Achilles heel.

So Tom - how are the Cheetos? Crunch or normal?
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[E1]

I'm considering insulating all our van panels with Cheetos so we'd survive a remote breakdown...
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‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[Sodo]

Yes you could also eat the mice living off your insulation.

I don’t know about the untwisting. I’m certain a bolt will untwist in a looser connection if the two parts are separating but I don’t know about a preload situation. I can’t imagine how. Is there any movement at all once the movable items can no longer move? If the barber pole was untwisting then you could re-torque forever but that doesn’t happen, one or two re-torques and it will remain 36 ft-lbs forever.

Grease oozing out slowly (or when heated) or a compressible part such as a gasket will surely reduce bolt tension as will any reduction of the stackup.

Squeeze a cheetos in a vise sometime - oil drips out. Or use a couple for campfire starter, they’re fatbombs and burn like hell. At $4/lb - the price is same as chicken but close to zero food value. Think about that for a moment. To get chicken you start by getting animals to go out on a date. But cheetos come crappin’ out of a machine as fast as they can spray on the appropriate chemicals, bag, tag & take your money. No cheetos here (unless my girls snuck them in). In which case I’ld eat them all to teach them a lesson.

Speaking of food, from the perspective here in the back seat Mrs Sodo shifts the van like mixing brownies with a large wooden spoon.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[E1]

Closest thing to Cheetos we buy are baby carrots.
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‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[Sodo]

Sitting in the back of the van, I’m supposed to be napping for my turn to drive. We’re a couple hours south of Bend, OR.

Maintenance records.

The pilot bearing on a Subaru is a simple cartridge ball bearing. It was jerky so I pried the seal out. Inside was perfect and didn’t look “dry” but it was; almost like it was lubed with only oil (no grease), like the balls were rubbing on the cage. I packed it with CV grease and snapped the seal back in and it’s smooth as silk.

Didn’t have an alignment tool so used a socket extension and eyeball.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[hdenter]

Glad you are well on your way! I would have liked to help out more on Saturday, but it was my wife and I's anniversary and a little voice told me I had better not spend it under someone else's van...

Hans
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'79 triple white convertible bug
'84 sunroof vanagon
'85 weekender

[IdahoDoug]

Wow - nice to hear two legendary Samanistas got to swing a wrench together, no matter how short the time was.

On the bearing. I recently found a similar situation with an idler pulley on my 944 that seemed simply dry from age. I bought a clever little tool that looks like a hypodermic syringe with a tiny flattened snout strong enough to sneak under rubber seals in little bearings. I ordered an esoteric bearing from an old school bearing house back East and they had it on special. Since then, I have routinely used this to squirt grease under pressure under rubber seals of a lot of bearings.

I agree that a lot of little bearings like the pilot bearing you describe are readily refreshed and renewed. Good on you for having the guts to make the call it could be saved with a bit of fresh grease. Quailty grease matters and it probably had some really low grade stuff in there. Yours will last at least twice as long I'd wager...
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Waldi]

[Waldi]

[Sodo]