New to the Club - '64 Split Window Camper

[ToolBox]

[Waterborn]

[Z]

[Eric&Barb]

[easy e]

[62DoKaGuy]

[Waterborn]

Mechanic confirmed he will pull the trans and replace the shift rod bushings and the boots. So far seems like a stand up guy. Will report back when he finishes the work. In the meantime I’ve got a ton of reading to do.

[EverettB]

[Waterborn]

So then this would be the correct gauge?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2064135

My bus was upgraded to a 12v electrical system. Is it still possible to use a 6v gauge under these circumstances. If so, what modifications would be necessary to the wiring? It seems that some of the later "authentic" gauges were 12V. Is this in fact the case or am I destined for a repro?

Thanks as always for all the help. Still plugging through the Idiot's Guide each night

[easy e]

That gauge is a bus gauge... correct for a bus (vs. Beetle/Ghia/etc.)
Not month/year correct or voltage correct... but, it's $25 shipped (good price).

People have used 6v gauge in 12v vehicles.
The gauge "pegs" faster. Some have said broken needles... some have said works fine for eons.

Fuel senders are the same... gauge is a little different internally.
Here's a method to modify... if you can't handle your needle moving fast when you start the bus up:

[ToolBox]

[Eric&Barb]

You can also pick up from Ebay a 12 volt to 6 volt converter for the gauge and another for the 6 volt wiper. That way you do not have the 6 volt gauge snap off the needle or burn up a perfectly good wiper motor. Would need a 10 Amp continual converter at least for the wiper motor.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Waterborn]

Well got the vehicle back on Friday with mixed results. Mechanic did install new bushings and boots, but I am not 100% convinced that he pulled the trans apart. Still a bit of oil around the seams/gaskets though not seeing any dripping so far.

Also, he supposedly replaced the bulbs for the blinker lights on the speedo and the one for the high beam. The blue high beam indicator works now, but neither blinker on the dash illuminates and there is now ZERO voltage to the gas gauge. I followed the black power wire on the gas gauge and it is coupled to a connection on the speedo. Can't really see much back there and need to figure out how to pull the speedo. I don't think the factory mount is in place.

On a brighter note, I found a magnetic key holder under the dash and low and behold, it had a key in it that fits AND WORKS on ALL the door and hatch locks. Can't for the life of me figure out why the seller did not tell me about this key unless he simply was not aware of it. At least now I don't have to have all the locks re-keyed.

Also got the seat belt properly installed using mounts that I ordered from Wolfsburg. One of the mounts did not want to thread in properly, but after cleaning up the mounting hole and lubricating it a bit with some grease, I was able to get it to thread properly.

I also finally got around to pulling out the poles for the canopy that were in the side closet. Amazingly it seems like all the poles were still there. Pretty sure that the "canopy" is just something a previous owner threw together as it has gromets on one side and buttons on the other, but no place to secure the latter and no way to tie down the former. I temporarily used zip ties just to hold the thing in place for some pics. I cannot find any info on the manufacturer of the poles. Does anyone have any idea where these may have come from?

[Waterborn]

[Eric&Barb]

Tent frame is same as we found for our 1960 walk thru panel camper conversion. The roof had the correct tent mounts at one time for the tent frame. Welded shut the screw holes for the mounts.

Get a couple of spare keys made to CYA. Rear hatch latch lock is most likely to be still correct to the bus. Use the key code off that to get a real locksmith to make them.

You can drop the dash package tray to get a bit more access to the dash wiring. Flashlight and hand mirror will be needed. Removing the speedo will cause you just more grief.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[Waterborn]

[EverettB]

I don't know if you did this so:
You have to unbolt the steering column bracket from underneath and pivot it out of the way too.
These bolts

The power to the gas gauge runs off the power wire that powers the speedo lights. It usually attaches to the top of the speedometer, where the turn signal light is.
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[Z]

Electrical issues are my least favorite, but my starting point is always 'is everything connected as original?'

Find the one of these that's correct for your bus, print it and laminate it. It may be the MOST used tool I have for my bus.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt2.php

[Waterborn]

Well this am I took my first drive through a torrential downpour and learned quickly what NOT to do when breaking in a '64 VW Bus

I also learned where all the leaks are. Most of the water that made its way into the vehicle came from the air duct that allows outside air to come into the cab or toward the cargo area. At lunch today I took the panel off of this area and found quite a bit of water and old, dried out seals. The large black seals are rock hard and were actually preventing the flap that closes off the air flow to shut all the way.

You can see where some of the old seal has adhered to the top of the duct.

And the bottom

What is the best way to fix these seals? Is there someplace to locate repro ones or should I just go to the hardware store and pick up regular weather strip type material?

Also, If I undo these screws, will I be able to pull the flap out for cleaning and re-affixing new seals? I noticed that there is a washer and pin on the passenger exterior of the duct. I presume if I loosen the screws pictured and remove that washer/pin, the I can pull the rod out toward the driver's side and remove the flap. Does this sound correct?

Every day I learn just a little more about this vehicle. It's like a form of treasure hunt, uncovering new ticks, oddities and things in need of repair.

[easy e]

The flap seals:
See upper right stuff in this image: http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/interior/bus_interior/misc_bus.cfm
Apply penetrant to your grub screws now... and a few more times before you want to pull that rod out towards the driver's side.
For the flap seal... some people drill out the rivets & replace with small screws/nuts.

The leak:
Remove the hard/broken sealant.
Clean joint interfaces (like soap & water clean with a rag, etc)
Install sealant. I used this one:

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aka: Evan
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