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Rusted Coolant pipes near engine question.
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JoshG
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just replaced a section of one of the short steel pipes that runs behind passenger side rear wheel. It sprung at least three pinhole leaks. It was very rusty on the outside, BUT I also noticed that there where rust spots on the inside as well. It was clearly rusting in both directions. The pattern on the inside was quite different from the outside rust but it was rust none the less! It was spotted, is the only way I can describe it. Little star like rust spots, most likely from metal deposits catching on the side walls. I removed a section and patched it with some extra coolant hose I had from another car. I see no good reason why these sections need to be metal! (let the debate rage on).
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Bercilak
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tooharsh wrote:
I too have been wondering if there is any chance of the steel lines rusting from the inside out. From what I have read it seems like they rust from the outside, if that is the case then I think I am ok for now. Can anyone say they have seen these lines runt from the inside out?


I had rusty pipes, and used a short-term fix to keep me on the road until I got a set of pipes to fix it.

The pipes showed mildly rusty spots on the outside, that looked minor, until you rubbed them. Rub those little scabs and the bastard started leaking! Why, you ask? Same question here, so I cut out a piece to do my repair and looked at it. Here's what I saw:

The original pipes had a seam; all along the seam, on the inside of the coolant pipe, there were rust blobs of various sizes; in some cases as big as a pistachio. everywhere there was a big rust blob, there was a little scab on the outside. Your pipes may well be 90% rusted through from the inside-out and there will be nearly no visible signs on the outside. Seems (no pun intended) that the joint created a weak spot for rust build up.

Now, as for the repair:

The short-term fix was hot-water exhaust hose from West Marine ($10 p/ft ~ good gawd!) I still have big section around for repairs if necessary. The marine hose worked fine, and with a spiral metal wire inside, was plenty strong, etc.

Now replaced with SS pipes. There isn't much point in worrying about this unless you have a brand new engine. With an engine of unknown vintage (my 85 has a 2.1 in it that was used to replace the dead 1.9 at around 100K miles), the engine itself is going to self-destruct long, long before the galvanic action (whatever it amounts to) does anything to the engine.

Hell, we had to use JB Weld to build up the corroded edges of the bottom end due to the leaky head problem. There won't likely be another top end job on the engine; next time around is going to need a new bottom end, regardless of what happens with the pipes.

So get the pipes, I say, or use the marine hose or some other type of coolant hose. Be advised, coolant hose will not be optimal when you hit something from underneath. I'd prefer SS pipes when I high-center on a rock. But I carry hose just in case.

I would argue strongly that the issue of galvanization comes down to lifetime of use. If your motor is well-used, it's going to die long before galvanic action takes it down. If it's new, better talk to the builder and see what they'll warranty.

Best,

B.
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tooharsh wrote:
I too have been wondering if there is any chance of the steel lines rusting from the inside out. From what I have read it seems like they rust from the outside, if that is the case then I think I am ok for now. Can anyone say they have seen these lines runt from the inside out?


They can't rust from the inside out, there's no oxygen/atmosphere to promote oxidation. They rust from the outside.
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jwallis
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess I'll go over them with a hammer or probably just pull them and check them when i do the drain/refill i'm going to have to do anyway (for other coolant fixes). i'd hate to do the hammer test, determine it solid, but knock a chunk loose and have it bounce around and plug the radiator or something else down the line...
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Bercilak
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake de Villiers wrote:
Tooharsh wrote:
I too have been wondering if there is any chance of the steel lines rusting from the inside out. From what I have read it seems like they rust from the outside, if that is the case then I think I am ok for now. Can anyone say they have seen these lines runt from the inside out?


They can't rust from the inside out, there's no oxygen/atmosphere to promote oxidation. They rust from the outside.


I'll see if I can find the pix. If it's not rust (i.e. oxidation cause by exposure to the atmosphere) then it's some other form of corrosion, and the end result remains the same. A hole develops from the inside out.

The reason I know this is that there were many corroded spots along the seam, but only some had corroded through to the point of leaking. In other cases, the build-up on the interior seam was clear, though there was no leakage as the corrosion had not sufficiently compromised the exterior yet. In any case, the corrosion was inside out. The cause? I'm no chemist/engineer; I'll leave that to others.

Best,

B.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The interior pin holes are primarily caused by electroletical corrosion, inspired by a no coolant servicing issue.
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terry Kay wrote:
The interior pin holes are primarily caused by electroletical corrosion, inspired by a no coolant servicing issue.


That makes sense - galvanic corrosion from the inside, for sure.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's like an acid burn--
Not the same, but after running a fluid that is supposed to have anti corrosive additives in it to prevent this sort of phenomina--eventually the weakest spots that have been getting thin--in years, and as a result of no , or poor servicing, will let loose, & leak.

Steel or iron engine sleeves will get the same treatment after awhile too--
The sleeves are big magnets to this sort of corrosion too after a life of no coolant servicing .
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bercilak wrote:
Jake de Villiers wrote:
Tooharsh wrote:
I too have been wondering if there is any chance of the steel lines rusting from the inside out. From what I have read it seems like they rust from the outside, if that is the case then I think I am ok for now. Can anyone say they have seen these lines runt from the inside out?


They can't rust from the inside out, there's no oxygen/atmosphere to promote oxidation. They rust from the outside.


I'll see if I can find the pix. If it's not rust (i.e. oxidation cause by exposure to the atmosphere) then it's some other form of corrosion, and the end result remains the same. A hole develops from the inside out.

The reason I know this is that there were many corroded spots along the seam, but only some had corroded through to the point of leaking. In other cases, the build-up on the interior seam was clear, though there was no leakage as the corrosion had not sufficiently compromised the exterior yet. In any case, the corrosion was inside out. The cause? I'm no chemist/engineer; I'll leave that to others.

Best,

B.


Bercilak,
thanks for all your input. One last question: was the interior corrosion mainly near the engine as everyone else seems to say about the external corrosion or was it evenly distributed through the pipe?

Thanks-
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Bercilak
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I apologize, I couldn't easily find the pix last night. A more determined search will happen when I have time.

The section I removed was from the pipes under the back half of the van. The pipe had already dropped down from engine input/output level to flat run under the body.

I removed the section from the bottom of the "S" bend (where it comes down to the lower level) to about 1 foot from the fuel pump.

The major leaky spot was closer to the bottom "S" bend, but there were corrosion points all the way along the seam. At the time, TK suggested that if the corrosion was bad enough to leak at one point, fix that point was just a short term fix, as corrosion was occurring elsewhere too. That opinion was born out by my inspection of the cutout section.

When I later removed the whole set of pipes, I don't recall that I had the time/inclination to check them out end-to-end, but I do know that the ends of the coolant pipes were in good condition. The real problem was corrosion along the seam, and I can't say that closer to the engine was particularly bad, at least based on my semi-interested inspection.

As I said, I'll keep looking for the pix. I threw out the pipe section about 6 months ago, after keeping it for awhile. Now I wish I had it...

rats.

******************************
Question for TK ~

Does regular (say 2 year interval) coolant service avoid this problem, or just slow it down so much that the car self-destructs before the corrosion can become problematic?

Thanks,

B.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again Bercilak. Don't trouble yourself for the pics. I will try to find any signs of corrosion and check them out. I'm a relatively paranoid person (since i'm about to spend the next few months travelling) but I still think my pipes are good for a while longer. No one in central Texas uses salt, I did do the heads but the pitting wasn't very bad, so hopefully the coolant was changed on a semi regular basis. I'll definitely keep an eye on them of course...
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

<<Does regular (say 2 year interval) coolant service avoid this problem, or just slow it down so much that the car self-destructs before the corrosion can become problematic?>>

Yes.
And this is assuming that the Van is just a play toy, and you don't put that many miles on it.
Every other year would be a very good rule of thumb target coolant service date.

I've mentioned a real easy process many times here and other places of water cooled Vanagon interest.
A simple litmus paper test will tell you if your coolant is good or bad by the color of the test strip.
Simple , easy & a real fast way to test the condition of your coolant.

Once a year dip of the paper in your expansion tank would be a good thing to do--just for grins anyway.
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Bercilak
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TK,

Thanks ~ I'll dig that up (I know I've read that post before) and file it away for reference.

Appreciate your insight,

Best,

B.
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Mellow Yellow 74
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 3:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just read this thread and yes dissimilar metals can cause galvanic corrosion but the two metals need to be in contact.

It's like a battery where you have an anode, a cathode and an electrolyte - when the anode and cathode have an electrical circuit, the cathode will dissolve and will be deposited on the anode.

But if the battery is not connected, nothing happens so as long as your stainless coolant pipes are insulated from the engine and radiator via the rubber hoses nothing will happen.

Terry Kay wrote:
The interior pin holes are primarily caused by electroletical corrosion, inspired by a no coolant servicing issue.

Also electroletical is not a real word
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Christopher Schimke wrote:
Terry Kay wrote:
The plain jane steel coolant pipes would have been more guilty of causing an electroletical reaction in the aluminum than the stainless pipes.

A good grade of stainless won't hurt your Van or the engine.


Really?

The galvanic voltage aluminum is 0.70-0.90
The galvanic voltage for steel is 0.60-.070
The galvanic voltage for 300 series stainless is 0.00-0.15

In order to prevent or reduce galvanic corrosion, the galvanic voltages of the dissimilar metals need to as close as possible to each other. In the galvanic series, the metals with the higher voltage potential (aluminum in this case) becomes the anode when coupled with with a metal of lower voltage potential and therefore corrodes faster that it would if it were all by itself. Looking at the numbers above, it is clear to see that aluminum has a much closer potential to steel than it does to stainless steel.

Mild steel welded to stainless steel rusts (corrodes) much quicker than mild steel by itself for the exact same reasons, the large differences in galvanic potentials between the two metals.

Terry Kay wrote:
This is why all food processing plants,& milk production facilities use stainless tubing, tanks, vats, etc.

kayakwesty wrote:
it's why we use stainless steel in our nuclear plants, it's not affected by much.

you are worrying about nothing


Yes, but those facilities are made up almost entirely of stainless, not a stainless/aluminum mix therefore little or no galvanic reactions.

As far as the coolant being an electrolyte, it can most certainly. All it needs is a small electrical leak connected to the engine. Vanagons are obviously notrorious for ground and electrical issues so a small electrical leak could easily go unnoticed. Even if there were no electrical leaks, if the coolant is broken down too severely or mixed with water that has a high mineral content, it becomes an electrolyte very easily. The introduction of exhaust gases into the cooling system will break down the corrosion inhibitors in the coolant very rapidy allowing the coolant to become an electrolyte. Vanagons are also notorious for head sealing issues.

Provided none of the above applies, the corrosion inhibitors in the coolant will break down in time allowing the galvanic corrosion process to eat your engine alive if you fail to keep up on your maintenance. Yes, the same could be said for a system with steel or other kinds of coolant tubes but the galvanic difference between aluminum and stainless is so much greater than steel and aluminum that the corrosion process will progress much faster.

Stainless is simply not the correct choice for cooling tubes on an aluminum engine. It's great for keeping the outside looking pretty but the potential damge that it can cause to the engine are not worth it. Not to me anyway.


Very interesting and helpful information on how corrosion forms and can be exacerbated by the joining of two dissimilar metals. We see this same thing happening in the home building industry when copper flashing makes contact with aluminum window cladding or when someone has used galvanized nails through copper flashing. As a rule we use the same metals when fastening. If we have to join two different types of metal, we always put a simple protective barrier in between the two metals. Sometimes it’s something as simple as a vinyl adhesive membrane. Any ways, Thanks for the very informative post.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 2:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Rusted Coolant pipes near engine question. Reply with quote

Best way to check the plastic pipes for condition, and where is the problem areas. The more I read about replacing them the more confusing it becomes.
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Mellow Yellow 74
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 4:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mellow Yellow 74 wrote:
Just read this thread and yes dissimilar metals can cause galvanic corrosion but the two metals need to be in contact.

It's like a battery where you have an anode, a cathode and an electrolyte - when the anode and cathode have an electrical circuit, the cathode will dissolve and will be deposited on the anode.

But if the battery is not connected, nothing happens so as long as your stainless coolant pipes are insulated from the engine and radiator via the rubber hoses nothing will happen.


I saw in another thread that mounting the stainless pipes to the body provides an electrical connection to the aluminium in the engine, which is true. But whether a small voltage would actually travel through the body is not clear any anyway the coolant contains corrosion inhibitor so this is going to minimise any galvanic reaction.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2018 1:46 am    Post subject: Re: Rusted Coolant pipes near engine question. Reply with quote

I just want to report my experience with rusted coolant pipes. I have an 82 diesel van. It sat for a few years while I was doing body work and installing an AAZ engine. At the end of my first road trip, I overheated on the highway and discovered a coolant leak above the fuel tank. I spent a really damn long day in the parking lot of a FLAPS, dropping the tank and cobbling together a fix for a pinhole leak in the pipe. (I got some coolant hose of the correct diameter to fit over the pipe, like a sleeve, and I covered the thing in hose clamps -- like just back to back! -- terrified that it would come loose somehow.)

Anyway, I was lucky that my new engine wasn't damaged! Now I have stainless pipes.

Given the danger of this particular sort of failure, which not only is a nightmare to repair on the road, but can cause major engine damage, and, further, the near-impossibility of evaluating the condition of the pipes -- given the fact that they can rust from the inside out -- I don't think I would ever again want to take a trip running stock metal pipes!
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2018 11:25 am    Post subject: Re: Rusted Coolant pipes near engine question. Reply with quote

zuhandenheit wrote:
I just want to report my experience with rusted coolant pipes. I have an 82 diesel van. It sat for a few years while I was doing body work and installing an AAZ engine. At the end of my first road trip, I overheated on the highway and discovered a coolant leak above the fuel tank.

.... and, further, the near-impossibility of evaluating the condition of the pipes -- given the fact that they can rust from the inside out -- I don't think I would ever again want to take a trip running stock metal pipes!


Thanks for that.

Did you determine if it was exterior or interior corrosion that caused the leak? If the pipes were outside and open to atmosphere during the swap process, (years) do you think that hastened the corrosion?

Neil.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 3:31 am    Post subject: Re: Rusted Coolant pipes near engine question. Reply with quote

Vanagon Nut wrote:
zuhandenheit wrote:
I just want to report my experience with rusted coolant pipes. I have an 82 diesel van. It sat for a few years while I was doing body work and installing an AAZ engine. At the end of my first road trip, I overheated on the highway and discovered a coolant leak above the fuel tank.

.... and, further, the near-impossibility of evaluating the condition of the pipes -- given the fact that they can rust from the inside out -- I don't think I would ever again want to take a trip running stock metal pipes!


Thanks for that.

Did you determine if it was exterior or interior corrosion that caused the leak? If the pipes were outside and open to atmosphere during the swap process, (years) do you think that hastened the corrosion?

Neil.


It was interior rust. And that's why I wouldn't ever want to trust the steel pipes -- there's no good way to evaluate their condition. From the outside, the leak was just a very small pinhole.

Also, yes, almost certainly the rust was caused or greatly worsened by the years that the pipes were open to the atmosphere.

Maybe I should have said this before:

I started the swap process after blowing the 1.6's headgasket. I think I lost coolant and when I was trying to diagnose the problem, just added water -- planning on a flush once I solved the problem. But the motor wasn't salvageable. I remember the night I realized that my coolant pipes had been sitting for a few years, filled with something closer to water than a proper coolant mix! I was five thousand miles away from my van, which even while in storage found ways to sometimes keep me up at night (especially at this point, in which I often lost hope that I'd ever get it back together, while trying to finish a PhD and living most of the time on the other side of the world).

The fact that I almost certainly caused the rust doesn't change how I now feel about the pipes however, because POs don't necessarily perform coolant changes, and a van may have been run with water instead of coolant.
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