Remove rear hatch glass in a jiffy.

[IdahoDoug]

I have a scratched up rear hatch window and it has bugged me for years. I also have a spare hatch with good glass in it and have been meaning to remove the glass and toss the metal at the scrapyard. But I've read so many posts about how hard it is to deal with this, etc.

So yesterday was the big day. I had a plan. I lay the hatch with the interior side facing up on 3 pieces of wood out on the lawn. Then I used a popsicle stick to run under the interior seal lip and laid the red straw from a WD40 can right next to it. As I pushed the popsicle stick, it pushed the straw along and I kept a constant stream going. Took 30 seconds to go all the way around to lubricate the entire lip. Gravity probably helped it creep under the seal on the outer lip.

Then I picked the lower corner and simply peeled the interior lip back 180 degrees with a popsicle stick and shoved the tip of the popsicle stick in to hold the lip back. It took about 15 of them to do the one end - about 1/3 of the total glass.

Then I had my son put his foot on the corner of the glass with about 70 lbs of weight while I pushed down with the heel of my hand. Zip. The window simply glided right out of this end of the molding, still held in at an angle. I was able to simply push it down gently onto the lawn with no danger and the entire job was done. Less than 5 minutes total.

Has anyone got any tricks for putting it in? I know that's the hard part, but for some reason I am suddenly full of piss and vinegar now that the extraction went so ridiculously fast. I will do the same for the hatch in the van, but leave it latched while my son pushes with his foot from the inside. I'll probably secure the glass with something to ensure we can't drop it.

So, what say ye about getting it back in? Tips? Threads of use?

Doug
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[SyncroButter]

The ultimate thread on the subject: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=

I followed these instructions (per my comment in the thread) and it all went great, popped my windows back in about a month ago.
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Grant
In the stable: 1986 Syncro Westfalia/Bostig, 1989 Doka Tristar, 1974 Vespa Rally 200, 1973 Vespa Primavera 125, 1963 Solex 2200, 1938 Buick Special
Gone but not forgotten: 1989 Porsche 944, 1973 Standard Beetle

[dobryan]

Doug, do what I did as referenced and use plenty of outside force to seat it.
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[IdahoDoug]

Cool. Any specifics on three items:

Rope diameter?
Lube type?
Any sealant used?

While I got this window out with WD40 I'm thinking an oil based lubricant like that would remain slippery in there (bad) where it's probably best to use something else that dries? And where are the ends of the one U that is under the other - tucked in and you have to dig them out after you've used the first rope, or is it also hanging out when you start? I'm visualizing one pair of ends is hanging out the bottom of the vertical sides, and the other pair of ends from the other U is hanging out the top of the vertical sides?

Also, could you give me some visibility on why the two ropes on the vertical sides? Just to give you two chances to fully pull the interior lip over the hatch flange on the sides, or something else?

Thanks - stoked to think I can do this myself.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[SyncroButter]

I used 1/4 cotton sash core for all of my Windows. The cotton is able to soak up some of the lubricant etc which really helps.

For lube, I use dish soap solution in a spray bottle but there are many options out there... I have heard of people using tire soap and regular grease as well.

We set up the ropes so that there was around 6 inches of overlap on each side, and all 4 ends were hanging loose with enough rope to get a good grip. So before you begin you will have all 4 ends hanging inside the van, we coded our so that you could tell which ones to start with. Hope that helps and clarifies!
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Grant
In the stable: 1986 Syncro Westfalia/Bostig, 1989 Doka Tristar, 1974 Vespa Rally 200, 1973 Vespa Primavera 125, 1963 Solex 2200, 1938 Buick Special
Gone but not forgotten: 1989 Porsche 944, 1973 Standard Beetle

[70coupyel]

I used this spray for the last couple of Type I windshields. Way better than soap.
Highly recommended. Good for other things on our vans too.

https://www.truevalue.com/silicone-lubricant-4-oz

A True Valule is my local hardware store to the shop and this price is cheaper than the huge on-line "A" store.
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[the joker]

cut a couple 3"long "handles" out of and old broom handle

wrap them with the rope , gives you lots of pulling leverage

[tristessa]

[SyncroButter]