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Performance Chassis for T1
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Plipton
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 1:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

TheViking wrote:
And where did you see the post from coolrydes? Couldnt find them


Here you go..... https://www.facebook.com/Kevin.Coolrydes.Zagar?hc_...OSNKwu15j8

See my post a couple of pages back which noted some similar short-comings of the Imohr system. He's got some good points to make and I agree with most of it.

I just wish he'd sort out my spindles and UTF mount Sad
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coolrydes
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 8:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

It has been awhile since I've had time to get on here and check the forums. I see some of you guys have been busy, bashing me and my company.

I guess there is no making some or you happy unless I give my work away. Unfortunately I have a family and employees to provide for and the cost of doing business in extreme in California.

If any of you can do it better for less be my guest.

Somethings you should know before you embark on making these:
1) Quality materials cost money.
2) Labor is also cost good amounts.
3) Engineering cost
4) Time dealing with customers and suppliers
5) Advertising and proving your product.

I mean look at where we are after 10 years and over 150 units in the world.
I still have to defend the product from people bashing it and making false statements and claims.
The price of materials and services have increased, yet the price of the kits have not. I worked hard to keep the price low and make very little on each kit sold.

These are 100% jig built with USA materials and labor.
I place very high standards on the products I put out because I take peoples lives seriously. I have seen first hand the other kits being produced by people that put profit to be more important then peoples safety.

To the people that want to bash me for what I do, look at yourself in mirror and ask yourself what you would do in some of these cases.

Some of you value how much you can save by purchasing from someone else, and putting your life at risk. I've see a lot of junk on the market and think I should say something as I know what I'm looking at. I am not trying to bash their part, am trying to help save lives. Would you try and save someones life if you could? I know I would and I will again and again not matter what it cost me. So what if one of the other companies want to say something, or you folks think I'm just promoting my stuff.

I do not need to promote my stuff at the cost of someone else's products. My parts are high quality and not for everyone. In fact when people would ask how my front end was attached, I would not only explain it was welded on, but also let them know (if they wanted a bolt on unit) about EyeBall's / Bruce's front end. There is enough business to go around.

When there is something clearly unsafe I will tell people. I have one of the copies of the red 9 front ends here in my shop that was given to me. It was made by Bruce at Vintage VDub parts here in San Diego. After the customer finally got it after waiting a year, they could see the crap quality and tried to return it, because there was no way he would put it on his bus. Bruce of course could not refund money he did not have, so the customer was screwed. The customer brought it into me and after looking at it for 20-30 minutes I lost count around 60 different things I saw wrong with it, I agreed this and none of Vintage V-Dub parts front ends belong on anybodies vehicles. They are completely unsafe.

As for you Buggy T-4
You were told time and time again the wheels your were using were wrong, you chose to re-install them. When parts are engineered, they are engineered with certain tolerances, acceptable stress, and limits. When you re-installed the wheels I told you were NOT recommended you voided any type of warranty. The wheels were beyond tolerances, and stress limits. Parts for a car that weighs 2000 lbs can not be put on a 3000 lbs car and expected to last. simple physics.

I'm going to spend time with my family now, I have taken time away from them to get on here. I'm glad I did.

To the people that have my products and love them, Thank you for the continued support.

For those of you who do not and want to bash my products get a life.

To those who are curious, please contact me through the website listed below.

And last to those I simply can not make happy, you know in your heart I tried, but I have limits and if you want to try and exploit me and my company. In the end I hope you get what your looking for because your going to have to answer to your maker and pay up for it someday.

Good luck

Happy VW'ing

and Good night
_________________
Kevin "Coolrydes" Zagar

COOLRYDES So-Cal CUSTOMS
MENDEOLA SUSPENSION
THE HOME OF STYLE AND PERFORMANCE
www.CoolRydescustoms.com
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DerrickfromNC1
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 6:42 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Kevin,

How about bringing to market a bolt on IRS setup similar to what’s available for splitbuses using custom trailing arms. The bolt-on mounting shackles could be welded permanently at a later date.
I would bet there’s a lot of owners of pre IRS beetles like myself who like to work on and modify their cars in a 2 car garage with basic tools.

Thanks
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TheViking
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 8:33 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

coolrydes wrote:
It has been awhile since I've had time to get on here and check the forums. I see some of you guys have been busy, bashing me and my company.

I guess there is no making some or you happy unless I give my work away. Unfortunately I have a family and employees to provide for and the cost of doing business in extreme in California.

If any of you can do it better for less be my guest.

Somethings you should know before you embark on making these:
1) Quality materials cost money.
2) Labor is also cost good amounts.
3) Engineering cost
4) Time dealing with customers and suppliers
5) Advertising and proving your product.

I mean look at where we are after 10 years and over 150 units in the world.
I still have to defend the product from people bashing it and making false statements and claims.
The price of materials and services have increased, yet the price of the kits have not. I worked hard to keep the price low and make very little on each kit sold.

These are 100% jig built with USA materials and labor.
I place very high standards on the products I put out because I take peoples lives seriously. I have seen first hand the other kits being produced by people that put profit to be more important then peoples safety.

To the people that want to bash me for what I do, look at yourself in mirror and ask yourself what you would do in some of these cases.

Some of you value how much you can save by purchasing from someone else, and putting your life at risk. I've see a lot of junk on the market and think I should say something as I know what I'm looking at. I am not trying to bash their part, am trying to help save lives. Would you try and save someones life if you could? I know I would and I will again and again not matter what it cost me. So what if one of the other companies want to say something, or you folks think I'm just promoting my stuff.

I do not need to promote my stuff at the cost of someone else's products. My parts are high quality and not for everyone. In fact when people would ask how my front end was attached, I would not only explain it was welded on, but also let them know (if they wanted a bolt on unit) about EyeBall's / Bruce's front end. There is enough business to go around.

When there is something clearly unsafe I will tell people. I have one of the copies of the red 9 front ends here in my shop that was given to me. It was made by Bruce at Vintage VDub parts here in San Diego. After the customer finally got it after waiting a year, they could see the crap quality and tried to return it, because there was no way he would put it on his bus. Bruce of course could not refund money he did not have, so the customer was screwed. The customer brought it into me and after looking at it for 20-30 minutes I lost count around 60 different things I saw wrong with it, I agreed this and none of Vintage V-Dub parts front ends belong on anybodies vehicles. They are completely unsafe.

As for you Buggy T-4
You were told time and time again the wheels your were using were wrong, you chose to re-install them. When parts are engineered, they are engineered with certain tolerances, acceptable stress, and limits. When you re-installed the wheels I told you were NOT recommended you voided any type of warranty. The wheels were beyond tolerances, and stress limits. Parts for a car that weighs 2000 lbs can not be put on a 3000 lbs car and expected to last. simple physics.

I'm going to spend time with my family now, I have taken time away from them to get on here. I'm glad I did.

To the people that have my products and love them, Thank you for the continued support.

For those of you who do not and want to bash my products get a life.

To those who are curious, please contact me through the website listed below.

And last to those I simply can not make happy, you know in your heart I tried, but I have limits and if you want to try and exploit me and my company. In the end I hope you get what your looking for because your going to have to answer to your maker and pay up for it someday.

Good luck

Happy VW'ing

and Good night

Why dont you sell a setup from you that uses stock spindle?
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BuggyT4
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 12:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

coolrydes wrote:

As for you Buggy T-4
Parts for a car that weighs 2000 lbs can not be put on a 3000 lbs car and expected to last. simple physics.


The car is a Manxter; it does not weigh 3,000 lbs, it does not even weigh 2,000 lbs, and your suspension was designed for a car just like that.
Meanwhile, it looks as though Plipton will never receive from you the parts that he paid for.
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coolrydes
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 3:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

TheViking wrote:
coolrydes wrote:
It has been awhile since I've had time to get on here and check the forums. I see some of you guys have been busy, bashing me and my company.

I guess there is no making some or you happy unless I give my work away. Unfortunately I have a family and employees to provide for and the cost of doing business in extreme in California.

If any of you can do it better for less be my guest.

Somethings you should know before you embark on making these:
1) Quality materials cost money.
2) Labor is also cost good amounts.
3) Engineering cost
4) Time dealing with customers and suppliers
5) Advertising and proving your product.

I mean look at where we are after 10 years and over 150 units in the world.
I still have to defend the product from people bashing it and making false statements and claims.
The price of materials and services have increased, yet the price of the kits have not. I worked hard to keep the price low and make very little on each kit sold.

These are 100% jig built with USA materials and labor.
I place very high standards on the products I put out because I take peoples lives seriously. I have seen first hand the other kits being produced by people that put profit to be more important then peoples safety.

To the people that want to bash me for what I do, look at yourself in mirror and ask yourself what you would do in some of these cases.

Some of you value how much you can save by purchasing from someone else, and putting your life at risk. I've see a lot of junk on the market and think I should say something as I know what I'm looking at. I am not trying to bash their part, am trying to help save lives. Would you try and save someones life if you could? I know I would and I will again and again not matter what it cost me. So what if one of the other companies want to say something, or you folks think I'm just promoting my stuff.

I do not need to promote my stuff at the cost of someone else's products. My parts are high quality and not for everyone. In fact when people would ask how my front end was attached, I would not only explain it was welded on, but also let them know (if they wanted a bolt on unit) about EyeBall's / Bruce's front end. There is enough business to go around.

When there is something clearly unsafe I will tell people. I have one of the copies of the red 9 front ends here in my shop that was given to me. It was made by Bruce at Vintage VDub parts here in San Diego. After the customer finally got it after waiting a year, they could see the crap quality and tried to return it, because there was no way he would put it on his bus. Bruce of course could not refund money he did not have, so the customer was screwed. The customer brought it into me and after looking at it for 20-30 minutes I lost count around 60 different things I saw wrong with it, I agreed this and none of Vintage V-Dub parts front ends belong on anybodies vehicles. They are completely unsafe.

As for you Buggy T-4
You were told time and time again the wheels your were using were wrong, you chose to re-install them. When parts are engineered, they are engineered with certain tolerances, acceptable stress, and limits. When you re-installed the wheels I told you were NOT recommended you voided any type of warranty. The wheels were beyond tolerances, and stress limits. Parts for a car that weighs 2000 lbs can not be put on a 3000 lbs car and expected to last. simple physics.

I'm going to spend time with my family now, I have taken time away from them to get on here. I'm glad I did.

To the people that have my products and love them, Thank you for the continued support.

For those of you who do not and want to bash my products get a life.

To those who are curious, please contact me through the website listed below.

And last to those I simply can not make happy, you know in your heart I tried, but I have limits and if you want to try and exploit me and my company. In the end I hope you get what your looking for because your going to have to answer to your maker and pay up for it someday.

Good luck

Happy VW'ing

and Good night

Why dont you sell a setup from you that uses stock spindle?

Due to the fact we could not acheive the level of performance we can with our spindle, however we are testing an addapter that will allow a stock spindle to be used on our front ends, thus making them MOT complient. We are testing to make sure there will not be any issues with wear and failure by using a stock spindle and addapter for the upper ball joint.

We are hoping to release it soon as well as a couple of other surprises.


As for you Buggy T4, the weight was only used as an example to design limits. It was to help you understand why using the wrong offset wheels can increase the amount of stress on a part. You had problems well before you contacted us and had some person try and MIG weld the spindle back together. MIG welding is not strong enough to hold this type of item together as it does not penetrate the materials deep enough to hold. At first sign of issue, you should have contacted us, you did not. I made offers to help get this back together for you and you were un-willing to work with us.

As for Plipton, not that it is any of your business. His parts are leaving here today. I lost contact with him due to a server crash at MSN, which lost a ton of my emails. I have already made contact with him yesterday and his parts on the way to him.

I am a stand up guy and pride myself on doing the right thing in every situation as I am setting an example for my children.
_________________
Kevin "Coolrydes" Zagar

COOLRYDES So-Cal CUSTOMS
MENDEOLA SUSPENSION
THE HOME OF STYLE AND PERFORMANCE
www.CoolRydescustoms.com
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vwo60
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2018 1:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

coolrydes wrote:
It has been awhile since I've had time to get on here and check the forums. I see some of you guys have been busy, bashing me and my company.

I guess there is no making some or you happy unless I give my work away. Unfortunately I have a family and employees to provide for and the cost of doing business in extreme in California.

If any of you can do it better for less be my guest.

Somethings you should know before you embark on making these:
1) Quality materials cost money.
2) Labor is also cost good amounts.
3) Engineering cost
4) Time dealing with customers and suppliers
5) Advertising and proving your product.

I mean look at where we are after 10 years and over 150 units in the world.
I still have to defend the product from people bashing it and making false statements and claims.
The price of materials and services have increased, yet the price of the kits have not. I worked hard to keep the price low and make very little on each kit sold.

These are 100% jig built with USA materials and labor.
I place very high standards on the products I put out because I take peoples lives seriously. I have seen first hand the other kits being produced by people that put profit to be more important then peoples safety.

To the people that want to bash me for what I do, look at yourself in mirror and ask yourself what you would do in some of these cases.

Some of you value how much you can save by purchasing from someone else, and putting your life at risk. I've see a lot of junk on the market and think I should say something as I know what I'm looking at. I am not trying to bash their part, am trying to help save lives. Would you try and save someones life if you could? I know I would and I will again and again not matter what it cost me. So what if one of the other companies want to say something, or you folks think I'm just promoting my stuff.

I do not need to promote my stuff at the cost of someone else's products. My parts are high quality and not for everyone. In fact when people would ask how my front end was attached, I would not only explain it was welded on, but also let them know (if they wanted a bolt on unit) about EyeBall's / Bruce's front end. There is enough business to go around.

When there is something clearly unsafe I will tell people. I have one of the copies of the red 9 front ends here in my shop that was given to me. It was made by Bruce at Vintage VDub parts here in San Diego. After the customer finally got it after waiting a year, they could see the crap quality and tried to return it, because there was no way he would put it on his bus. Bruce of course could not refund money he did not have, so the customer was screwed. The customer brought it into me and after looking at it for 20-30 minutes I lost count around 60 different things I saw wrong with it, I agreed this and none of Vintage V-Dub parts front ends belong on anybodies vehicles. They are completely unsafe.

As for you Buggy T-4
You were told time and time again the wheels your were using were wrong, you chose to re-install them. When parts are engineered, they are engineered with certain tolerances, acceptable stress, and limits. When you re-installed the wheels I told you were NOT recommended you voided any type of warranty. The wheels were beyond tolerances, and stress limits. Parts for a car that weighs 2000 lbs can not be put on a 3000 lbs car and expected to last. simple physics.

I'm going to spend time with my family now, I have taken time away from them to get on here. I'm glad I did.

To the people that have my products and love them, Thank you for the continued support.

For those of you who do not and want to bash my products get a life.

To those who are curious, please contact me through the website listed below.

And last to those I simply can not make happy, you know in your heart I tried, but I have limits and if you want to try and exploit me and my company. In the end I hope you get what your looking for because your going to have to answer to your maker and pay up for it someday.

Good luck

Happy VW'ing

and Good night


When I approached you from Australia and explained the requirements for the engineering here , you could not even tell me the welding code used on your product, what ever you do, do not defend the fact that the spindles are welded and not to a code and there for are dangerous, as proven by the cracked one's, I am just pointing this out to you just like you point out all the failings in your competitors products.
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Plipton
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2018 8:18 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Look what arrived today. Thanks Kevin. The shifter will be a nice addition on the oval.

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halbug
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2018 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

halbug wrote:
I know some of you where looking at using stock spindles. Me too Very Happy

Thought you may be interested in my solution to the problem:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Special adapters that make stock spindle’s a pure bolt on. I will be using them on my Ghia transformation project.
Cheers
Halbug



I had another run of those adapters started, before knowing Kevin would be making adapters too. Initially he had none, so I made my own.

Two sets are left for sale. Will quit making them as Kevin starts selling his. If you are interested please pm me.

Thanks
halbug
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Plipton
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2018 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

halbug wrote:
I know some of you where looking at using stock spindles. Me too Very Happy

I had another run of those adapters started, before knowing Kevin would be making adapters too. Initially he had none, so I made my own.

Two sets are left for sale. Will quit making them as Kevin starts selling his. If you are interested please pm me.

Thanks
halbug


I can vouch for these adapters. I have set number 2. They are superbly machined and fit perfectly, giving the ability to use stock spindles with the correct (or as near as is possible with the stock spindles on this suspension) geometry.

If you already have, or plan to buy, this supension system and you live in a country where you can't legally use the welded spindles, I highly recommend you contact Halbug.
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-Alex77-
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2018 5:02 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

I had to refit the front plate of mendeola bulkhead, because the bodyshop owner where the project was, did install the front plate with 3mm wider gap at other side. Also i did a lot of other work to the front section of the chassis, new lasercut napoleon hat ends, front part of frame head etc.



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CiderGuy
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 11:05 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Took me 3 days off and on to read all 73 pages. It was a roller coaster, and at some point I was very interested in making a purchase of coolrides suspension.

One thing that troubled me was that Kevin of coolrides made every excuse in the book for never posing a video of his products in use.

5 years of excuses. I'm not drinking the cool aid.
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 2:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Plipton wrote:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


]


Those look an awfull lot like MIG welds, not TIG. Weren't you saying that MIG welders were to expensive to use in the oil cooler frame debate?

Don't know why you wouldn't have just changed the lower control arm to lower the ride height with stock spindles instead of cobbling up something like that? Would never pass inspection for DOT in Canada.

As far as the spindles coming apart because of the wrong offset. Does that mean someone couldn't put big sticky tires on their car and go racing with your suspension even with the right offset of wheel without the fear of having the spindles pull apart???

What's the point of spending that much on a suspension you can't push to the limit? Hell, I've pulled 1G with my short wheel base buggy with a tuned link pin and IRS suspension on slicks.

brad
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halbug
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 3:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

slalombuggy wrote:


Don't know why you wouldn't have just changed the lower control arm to lower the ride height with stock spindles instead of cobbling up something like that? Would never pass inspection for DOT in Canada.

brad


I agree, passing inspektion, also in Europe is questionable. Thats why I made adapters. Anyhow, Kevin is the first I know who thought and did something about improving the scrub. That's why he started making own spindles.

Given, some will ruin this by using offsets that will not take advantage of this improvement.
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Plipton
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 1:56 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

slalombuggy wrote:
Plipton wrote:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


]


Those look an awfull lot like MIG welds, not TIG. Weren't you saying that MIG welders were to expensive to use in the oil cooler frame debate?

Don't know why you wouldn't have just changed the lower control arm to lower the ride height with stock spindles instead of cobbling up something like that? Would never pass inspection for DOT in Canada.

As far as the spindles coming apart because of the wrong offset. Does that mean someone couldn't put big sticky tires on their car and go racing with your suspension even with the right offset of wheel without the fear of having the spindles pull apart???

What's the point of spending that much on a suspension you can't push to the limit? Hell, I've pulled 1G with my short wheel base buggy with a tuned link pin and IRS suspension on slicks.

brad


Oil cooler debate? I think you're mixing me up with someone else. I don't do welding - tried but I'm useless at it.

Those are the spindles supplied by Mendeola. The welds you can see are the Wilwood caliper brackets.

This side of the Atlantic the regulations vary depending on where you live. If I were to take the car to mainland Europe I would not be able to use those spindles. Currently I have stock spindles in place and Halbug's camber adjusters. The only disadvantage of the stock ones is they increase the ride height by 30mm compared to the Mendeola ones. That can be adjusted out but may lead to other problems.

I'm not finished the build yet (too many other priorities) but once done I'll report back on here how it all feels compared to stock.

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gdando
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 8:13 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Pilpton,
How is your build coming along?

Gene
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Plipton
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 2:03 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

gdando wrote:
Pilpton,
How is your build coming along?

Gene


Hi Gene,

Very slowly. I got distracted by a few other things this year so very little has happened. The chassis is complete (currently with VW spindles up front), but I have a ton of work to do to prepare the body shell and electrics so I can reassemble it all.

Cheers,
Rick
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Richard Davies
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Joined: February 20, 2009
Posts: 36
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado USA
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2019 2:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

I noticed how many pages of posts there are here regarding the Mendeola Suspension System.
Having covered close to 4,000 miles on mountain roads my 65 Bug is a blast to drive. If I'm having a not so good day (I have health issues) I fire up the Bug and find a road that has more corners per mile than the Nurburgring. (Yes, I have driven the ring but not in the Bug). Within the first mile I invariably have a smile and feel great.
The engine is Type 4 2270cc, Trans is 5 Speed 915 with LSD, Front rotors 996 and rears 944. For more info the Bug was featured in Hot VWs March 2018.
Having tested the Coolrydes system to the limit I recommend it to anyone building a sleeper that will easily out corner a stock aircooled 911 or a 2018 Focus ST.
Recently I spoke with Kevin Zagar as one of my inner tie rods was showing a small amount of wear. (Not enough to worry on most cars but Clint Vasholtz (Multiple Pikes Peak winner) said; "I've ridden in that Bug - replace it"
The tie rods are modified Golf 1 (The rack is Golf 1).
I ordered a set of tie rods from Kevin on Thursday and received them the following Monday. You won't improve on that service!
Front Suspension:
Mendeola True Performance:
Zero Scrub Spindles
4140 Chromoly A-Arns
German Golf 1 Rack & Pinion
Mendeola Bulkhead Assembly
Fox Racing Shocks
QA-1 Springs
Mendeola 4130 Chromoly ¾” Sway Bar
German Ball Joints
Energy Suspension Bushings

Rear Suspension:
Mendeola “Stiffy” Kafer Bar System
1” Chromoly 0.095 Wall 4130 Chromoly
1/” Plate Ties to Frame
TIGWelded
6 Point for triangulation of rear chassis

Pics by Rob Kelly: RKPics

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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H2OSB
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Joined: April 14, 2013
Posts: 1292
Location: Modesto, CA
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2019 6:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Richard Davies wrote:
I noticed how many pages of posts there are here regarding the Mendeola Suspension System.
Having covered close to 4,000 miles on mountain roads my 65 Bug is a blast to drive. If I'm having a not so good day (I have health issues) I fire up the Bug and find a road that has more corners per mile than the Nurburgring. (Yes, I have driven the ring but not in the Bug). Within the first mile I invariably have a smile and feel great.
The engine is Type 4 2270cc, Trans is 5 Speed 915 with LSD, Front rotors 996 and rears 944. For more info the Bug was featured in Hot VWs March 2018.
Having tested the Coolrydes system to the limit I recommend it to anyone building a sleeper that will easily out corner a stock aircooled 911 or a 2018 Focus ST.
Recently I spoke with Kevin Zagar as one of my inner tie rods was showing a small amount of wear. (Not enough to worry on most cars but Clint Vasholtz (Multiple Pikes Peak winner) said; "I've ridden in that Bug - replace it"
The tie rods are modified Golf 1 (The rack is Golf 1).
I ordered a set of tie rods from Kevin on Thursday and received them the following Monday. You won't improve on that service!
Front Suspension:
Mendeola True Performance:
Zero Scrub Spindles
4140 Chromoly A-Arns
German Golf 1 Rack & Pinion
Mendeola Bulkhead Assembly
Fox Racing Shocks
QA-1 Springs
Mendeola 4130 Chromoly ¾” Sway Bar
German Ball Joints
Energy Suspension Bushings

Rear Suspension:
Mendeola “Stiffy” Kafer Bar System
1” Chromoly 0.095 Wall 4130 Chromoly
1/” Plate Ties to Frame
TIGWelded
6 Point for triangulation of rear chassis

Pics by Rob Kelly: RKPics

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


First off, gorgeous car!

Second, I do like Mr. Zagar's products. In fact, I have a Stiffy Kafer Cup bar on one of my 1303s. My good friend Lanner Khan says good things about Mr. Zagar's products, and I have a heap of respect for Lanner and his vast VW knowledge. It has always bothered me, however, he's never done any empirical testing to back the claims he's made about that front suspension. Quite frankly the Super Beetle front suspension handles superbly with very little attention paid to it(urethane bushings and stiffer, shorter springs is all that's needed.), so the Mendeola set up would have to be very very good to be worth swapping to. It's very nice to hear some first hand feedback about the set up.

H2OSB
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(o\_i_/o) I'm not a vegetarian because I love animals, I'm a vegetarian because I hate plants.
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CarreraRS
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Joined: December 05, 2019
Posts: 2

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2019 2:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

CiderGuy wrote:
Took me 3 days off and on to read all 73 pages. It was a roller coaster, and at some point I was very interested in making a purchase of coolrides suspension.

One thing that troubled me was that Kevin of coolrides made every excuse in the book for never posing a video of his products in use.

5 years of excuses. I'm not drinking the cool aid.



I am also wondering why there is no driving video about the product. Just go to some racetrack with mendeola chassis equipped vw with semislicks and use GoPro camera inside and out.

It should not be too hard, and southern california has basically summer through whole year.

Where are nearest racetracks to San Diego?
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