IRS Conversion

[jcozzolino]

Hi all!

I'm in the process of converting my 65 to IRS. I've spent a bunch of time researching, but haven't found the answer I'm looking for. I've already welded in the pivots,but don't seem to have much clearance on the inner cv joints. I'm running type 1 cv's. My question is, is it necessary to notch the frame horns? I've only found that when running bigger cv's it has to be notched, but nothing about type 1 cv's.

Thanks
Jason

[Brian]

yea it is my understanding that you'll need to make some room for them.
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[joemama]

Yes, when I did mine, I had to clearance the frame horns. I think some people just use a hammer. I cut out the area and welded in metal. I also reinforced the bottom of the frame horns there.

[jcozzolino]

Thanks for the replies. after playing around, i figured it was best to notch them. A little cutting and welding its all fixed up.

[oldschool5er]

I have just slightly slotted a solid engine mount at the frame horn bolts then move the saddle up a little. It only needs to move up a little bit in order to clear. You can tweak the nose mount if it is a solid one or if using a strapped rubber one it flexes enough. I even weld the frame horn bolts with a half inch tack to the solid mount because frame horn bolts loosen up in off road use. When taking the trans out I just leave the solid mount on the frame horns and unbolt the trans from it. After all your not taking the trans in and out all the time and it makes the solid engine mount part of the frame horns. It has been done this way in off road racing in the past by successfull racers when even using larger than T1 Cv's and is where I learned it from.
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[3gengines]

I have a Chewowth that has a full fabricated rear sub frame. It was converted to IRS when I bought it and the previous owner just bashed the down tube. I found the the lower rail had sagged after the down tube so I fabricated new down tubes that intersected at the rear of the lower rails very close to the trans clutch housing bracket. I then cut out the bashed tubes and had plenty of room for type 2 upgraded flanges and axles.

[jcozzolino]

Thanks for the replies. The car is back up and running and I couldn't be happier.
I decided to notch the rails. iI cut out a small section big enough so if I want to upgrade to bigger Cv's later Ill have room. I filled the area with 10g angle iron that extends about 1.5 inches past the opening inside the rail. I welded all around and then plug welded to the angle iron. I learned a lot and am super happy with the way the car rides and no positive camber!

Thanks again for the help.