Overlanding a VW Bus Around The World?!

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[78BusGA]

In concern for the larger idea of your international trip and the success of the internet/TV show you are producing...

For the scope of the project that you want to take this bus on, especially driving it from Europe through the wilds and nature of Asia and through Australia, you are going to be taking the Bus on some VERY rough terrain that even those countries call roads.

The condition of the Bus you are working on now, seems in NO WAY to be able to handle those extremes. If you have structural rigidity issues, and panel seam self-destruction now just sitting on pavement, how will it survive the terrible conditions of the unpaved wilds of Asia and the Outback?

I see that the condition where, even if you were to create and weld in a new internal superstructure and also weld tight all the seams that are currently compromised, that it can all just fall apart as with all the repairs that would be done. To me it isn't the strength of the kind of quality you would need to survive those kinds of wilds. Even with off-road style suspension mods, a welded seam can find a way to crack along the weld or along the side where the metal was heated by the weld. Well, unless you're willing to spend 20,000 Euro on Adamantium ribbing and an Unobtanium frame.

If you're working your way through Kazakhstan, Lower Russia, Mongolia, and similar parts of that region, and you have major panel failure there, unless you're carrying a welder, not many can come to your rescue like you were fortunate to have in Northern Canada/Southern Alaska.

Personally, I'd find another high top that has much more/all of the original supporting structure that should have been there in the first place. It's just peace of mind.

While I like your adventures and shows that have brought a fun light to owning/driving/living in/adventuring with an air cooled VW, I'd also Not like to see you stranded somewhere, where when your temporary visas run out, put you in jail. Nobody needs that.
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Few will understand the passion and majesty, among the nuts and grease.

Tom H.

My '74 Super 1303 thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764902&start=60

My '78 Kombi Bus thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=769385&highlight=

'72 Superbeetle (retired), '78 Bus Kombi 2.0FI, '74 1303 Superbeetle

[HastaAlaska]

Thanks for the replies guys

[KrisBalfe]

Put belly pans on it. That and the piece you've engineered for the top should handle the parts you've removed. Seam rust, meh my original paint bus has seem rust... who cares.
If it turns out that you still have structural problems after belly pans and the top pieces, try again. Good luck on your travels.

[HastaAlaska]

[Abscate]

You will need an engineering consult to stiffen that chassis. Pop riveting in Al plates will be the first th8ng they tell You to remove and start over.

You have to trace the forces and strains that you have changed by cutting the top open and transmit those forces To new places.

Understanding how to do this is why all the dorks inhigh school are now Rich,and all the popular kids voted most likely to succeed run dontfundme campaigns...
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.ssS!

[Manfred58sc]

My AW lost its roof about 1980 ( it is a 69 model), and was replaced with a slab of Aluminum sheet. I'm 2 nd owner and have service records from day one. AW cut hole in the roof of the Kombis and transporters they acquired, slapped on a high-top , heavied it up with cheap paneling and "furniture". Down the road they went. I'm almost at 700,000 miles and the only issue I have is the RT door not opening or closing correctly despite all my efforts. Otherwise I see no issues from the intrusion in the roof. Your seam deterioration hints of a previous graft/wreck repair. That may be why you have structural concerns. Frame check?? I would fish plate all soft areas from the inside with 14 gauge steel and diagonal anchor strips. Your hoop set up will help, but why use a softer material on a repair that has not been engineered? Overkill is the answer when in hillbilly land repair mode. I've seen stressed Bus's come apart, its ugly....
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Fat chick owner/operator

[HastaAlaska]

[williamM]

Hi Ben- as far as the body goes- I did nothing but install the panels (1/2" marine ply) behind both seats- to the top- the side door was not messed with. That upper frame you've put in seem like the right track. as the belly pans. If it makes you feel bad about the seams, my white bus is :bleeding" on the same seams and hasn't been out of the shed- so maybe the $450 tubes of sealer are worth it. [img]

This is an old pic of my first hi-topper - it appears to have as much roof removed as Boomerang. It also seems to have had the steel reinforcing removed, or move above the storage.

AW did put in a steel square brace between the C pillar - that was so low into the cabin- you couldn't help but bump your head on it- it was moved by me 4" higher on to the fiberglass. in line with the bottom of that storage.

this pic is looking forward.

[/img]

Here is a rough idea of the plywood over head storage and amount of tin removed looking back.[img][img]

The steel reinforcing can be seen above the flat storage piece. [/img]


I think the seam is just some low grade stuff the did not seal the metal-and not really any sigh of structural failure imminent.-


After all the 2x2's and panel were in, I didn't notice any "flex" in the frame, I can see how a more open environment you have planned, will certainly need some mods.

[/img]

Keep the faith and look forward to more of the video work-
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[HastaAlaska]

Cheers Bill, I'd originally thought that we'd tackle the interior during our 6 months in the US, but after we began we realized that there is no way that we would have had time. In hindsight it would be have been smart to leave your camper interior in, at least until we crossed the US. Would have helped with the structural rigidity and also would have been way more comfortable than sleeping on boxes


Not sure about that $450 seam sealer. Been searching for a while and haven't found anything close to it. Not much info to go on though. I may ask a local body-shop for help but would like to be asking the right questions. I take it that it's a 2K seam sealer that I should be looking for?

anything else I should inquire about to ensure they are going to do a good job?
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Around The World in a VW - Follow the Docuseries
2011 - PRESENT
Hasta Alaska Series - https://kombilife.com/hasta-alaska/
World Overland Series - https://kombilife.com/world-overland-travel-series/
Latest Adventures - https://www.youtube.com/@kombilife

[my59]

My son spent a semester in Mongolia and went back for a few weeks with a guy who runs overland expeditions. They had prepped trucks and equipment, and not all the trucks made it back. The roads were suggestions where others had travelled, and he said said aside from suspension issues, steering play was the issue. These were trucks with frames.
Screw the aluminum, and weld steel in like VW did. Too bad about the paint, get some silicone caulk and have at it. Pack some tubes for later..
When out of town in Mongolia, the locals crap down rabbit holes and the like. Good luck with showering. You really want to be there in the summer.
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my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget.

[richparker]

What’s the plan for the winch?
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[williamM]

[vwwestyman]

For whatever it's worth, rusted seams are fairly common on Vanagons, especially Vanagon Westys it seams (ha ha).

There have been some that felt they dealt with it well with minimal paint work/repair required afterward. More less, I think they tape the sides of the seam, dig the original VW goop out of the seam, apply acid to kill rust, reseal with a quality seam sealer, and paint with color matched paint.

I'd suggest searching over in the Vangon forums to see what they do.
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Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
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[HastaAlaska]

[HastaAlaska]

Hey Gang,

Can we talk security for sec?

I'm just coming towards the end of cab door restoration (thanks Colin for the useful write-up here on TS) and I'm just thinking about ways to improve security on the doors.

Guys in all your years have you ever seen electric deadbolts fitted to front cab doors? Or something similar fitted to the sliding door?

I've seen this on RR2

And was thinking I could try to use something like

It would be nice to install something modern / electronic as I will need to use them so often, but 2 principal concerns, 1 - it get's pretty wet inside those doors and 2 is there even space?

I'd like to avoid the questionable benefits of an external sliding door lock such as

but I will go this route if there is no other option

I understand that if they want in, they will get in, but I still think there is benefit in beefing up the security a little.

I'm wondering what you guys have collectively seen over the years to improve security.

Thanks
_________________
Around The World in a VW - Follow the Docuseries
2011 - PRESENT
Hasta Alaska Series - https://kombilife.com/hasta-alaska/
World Overland Series - https://kombilife.com/world-overland-travel-series/
Latest Adventures - https://www.youtube.com/@kombilife

[Abscate]

People will simply smash and grab if your doors won’t open. A crow bar will also defeat all that stuff, too. Sit awareness is much more important than engineering security
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.ssS!

[Manfred58sc]

I have to agree that ultimately safety is a state of mind and an awareness of circumstance. I would not put any external, visually obvious, mechanisms that would draw attention to the vehicle. Personally I stopped even locking my Bus years ago. I park in metered lots with an attendant , or within sight of what ever activity I'm involved with. Locks only keep out honest folk ( and yourself when you misplace the key ). Don't keep anything in the Bus that has value. I only revealed used camping gear of the lowest quality,old beat up tool-box full of mismatched items, torn clothing, no radio or electronic items. I did have a stash box behind the fridge that was not very easy to get to.

Never had one thing stolen in 32 years and 400,000 miles of travel.

In a sketchy foreign land , like the ones you are wanting to travel in, I would imagine you would be more or less tied to the bus at all times so that the whole vehicle is not boosted. Good luck.
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Fat chick owner/operator

[HastaAlaska]

I agree. Usually I keep the bus as close to me as possible at all times, that isn't always possible, neither is having nothing of value inside, unfortunately.

It's very easy to cut the rubber seal out or smash a window, but I still think it is worth while preventing the doors from opening. Getting into a vehicle (that you can't quickly exit,) through a smashed window has to be less appealing and hopefully will stop some people.

If nothing else, it will make me feel better.
_________________
Around The World in a VW - Follow the Docuseries
2011 - PRESENT
Hasta Alaska Series - https://kombilife.com/hasta-alaska/
World Overland Series - https://kombilife.com/world-overland-travel-series/
Latest Adventures - https://www.youtube.com/@kombilife

[Wasted youth]

In my mind, the whole idea of theft deterrent is to inspire the asshole to pick something easier than mine.

No amount of locks will keep someone out if they really want in. Just make it obviously harder to deal with than the next victim.