1965 11 Window Sundial Project

[dschup]

Thanks for the advise about the mount and I'll check the existing shift coupler.

I was able to weld in the bracket, but I don't think I had the correct amount of gap between the two pieces. Check out the pics below, any advise is welcome. I'm using a 110w Lincoln Handy Mig w/gas.

I tacked the bracket in place while it was bolted to my apron, so at least I know it will line up.

[KWZ]

Baby steps..... The bus is definitely going in the right direction. Post some more correct tire pics!
_________________
'57 sunroof Standard
'63 15 window
'65 Westy SO44

[dschup]

More correct tire pics will be added when the bus is running or at least out of the garage.

In the mean time, I was able to weld in the passenger side apron mount and mock up the apron and engine lid. Everything seems to line up pretty well with a few things i'll have to adjust after I get this thing running and driving. Still some welding to do, but I'm learning to weld on the slow side to prevent mistakes.

For now I feel great with my first real welding repair. I've got to patch 2 small portions of the frame with 1/8 sheet metal, then on to the engine shelves.

**Thank you to everyone who has ever posted something regarding sheet metal repair and welding. I would not be trying this without first being able to read all of the information you have posted**

[Skim]

[LAGrunthaner]

Skim I was thinking the same thing, what settings are you using on your MIG and is he too close a butt alignment needing more of a gap?

[dschup]

I'm pretty sure you're both right. I need more heat and more gap. Regarding the gaps, I cut the replacement pieces to fit the OG metal and make sure the apron bolt holes lined up. Aligning apron mounts and getting the gaps right was difficult. My thought was that I can weld these from both sides and come out ok.

The passenger side, which I did second, had better gaps and the penetration seems better. The issue here was filament, the replacement piece didn't match up as well as the drivers side.

I'm learning and I'll make sure to get better gaps.

[dschup]

I got tired of grinding and my wife is working odd hours so I have to pick when I can be loud and decided to start on the front seats. Mesh Gray, no pleats

The 2/3 frame and spring were in very good shape, so I removed the rust and painted them with Rustoleum appliance epoxy black. I used burlap and hog rings directly over the springs. I went with the horsehair pad and some thin soft material over that from WW. I replaced the provided string with 18 gauge wire and made sure I had all the metal rods needed at the sharp tabs along the sides and top of the backrest. The 2 side rods I was missing were replaced with pieces of a wire hangar.

2/3 Seat - Getting the backrest cover into the slotted part was the hardest part

I worked my way from right to left. I had to place the seat on my kitchen table and compress the seat springs to get enough slack on the cover. I was able to get the right corner started. Then, I worked my way along the channel in the tube to the left pushing up from the bottom while pressing the plastic piece on the cover down and in with a screwdriver. Be very careful doing this, I kept thinking something was going to slip and everything was going to rip. The picture is at the end when i was almost done. This was the most difficult part of the whole job.

Before:

After:

Onto the drivers seat.

The 1/3 frame backrest was submerged in vinegar/water until the rust was gone and sprayed with Rattlecan Appliance epoxy black. The only problem is the parts can flash rust quickly. The 1/3 base is another story, I think i need a new one.

Backrest:

The 1/3 seat base is my problem child.

Anyone have one in good shape?

This was the second time I've ever tried recovering seats, so far its gone well. The TMI Mesh Gray covers fit great.

[ryans65]

Thanks for the tips on the upholstery, I am about to do the exact same to my seats.... same interior and all!

I desperately need one the seatback adjuster screws from a 1/3 seat base like yours.... I would pay you a handsome sum for the entire base or simply the two seatback adjuster screws from the base! Let me know-

-Ryan

[dschup]

No problem, let me see what happens with my seat. If I end up replacing the base, I'll let you know.

[dschup]

Ryan65 - PM sent regarding the adjusters.

[dschup]

I found a 1/3 seat at the 2018 VW Spillout in San Antonio. I grabbed it about as soon as it was put on the ground to sell. It had some rust, but not nearly as bad as the rust on my original base. It came with all the hardware and I was able to help out another member with some leftover parts.

The 1/3 seat turned out really well.

[KWZ]

That looks really clean. I found that my '65 camper runs much smoother since I installed the same correct pleatless seat covers...
_________________
'57 sunroof Standard
'63 15 window
'65 Westy SO44

[dschup]

LOL thanks Kent.

I noticed the steering column felt loose and realized there was no rubber buffer or metal cup attached to the steering column bracket. I was able to locate one, paint it, and get everything back to being correct. Also added the knee protector.

The 1/3 seat is installed... and will make the bus stand still even smoother.

Replaced the front shocks, at least now they match. All new hardware and anti-seize.

Started removing some of the oxidized paint and fixed the gas door which had been bent from an apparent fuel theft attempt.

Before: Looks better than it really was.

After: Bad pic, looks better in person, totally straight and functional

[dschup]

So I cut out the piece of the engine shelf I needed, but the curve is different. I can force the new piece down and weld it, but I would rather try and fix it.

Any ideas to match the curve of the original piece? I was thinking of cutting a thin section out above the seal channel and welding it. Or I can leave it alone and push it into place...

[easy e]

[dschup]

Thanks for reminding me about the seal channel. It's on my list to bend it into the correct shape and I meant to do it before I welded the piece in.

I was thinking of making a type relief cut in order to push the curve down, then welding in the area that was cut. This would allow the new piece match the curve of the original metal where it starts arcing upward. I'm leaving towards just pushing it into place, it isn't off by too much.

[Longboardluv]

any updates?

[dschup]

I've been slacking on the updates, but here goes...

I restored a horn button. A little Brasso goes a long way and it helped to figure out the button comes apart.

I also redid the headlight buckets and promptly forgot to take pictures. I put them together several times before getting everything correct. One of the pictures shows the incorrect way of doing things... I used a rattle can stone grey on the buckets and headlight surrounds.

Disassembled:

Put together incorrectly:

Correctly on the bus:

Then I moved on to the deckled church key latch cover. I ordered an aftermarket correct piece and spending several hours trying to get it to fit right... Hint, its nearly impossible to bend the tabs to make the piece stay tightly in place. I came up with the following hombres solution. Im not 100% on the look, but it works.

I ordered a 1" (30mm) VW air diffuser locket from China. It took me quite a few different searches before I found this gem for $3

It came and I was surprised that it was made of metal and has a magnetic closure. I basically cut off the prongs, made a hole and safety wired it to the bus.

[dschup]

I contacted Painters Grinding in Denver for a longblock. It looks amazing and they got the work done extremely fast. I'm way behind in welding so i can actually put it in.

Its a 1776 Singleport with a Counter Weighted crank, New Mahle P&C's, New VW AS41 case and stock cam. I have a fresh 30pict1 from Volksbitz that also looks great and will be installed. I'll have a doghouse oil cooler on as well. A vintage Speed exhaust will finish it off.

I started cleaning a Pierburg fuel pump and am waiting on the rebuild kit. The pump came with free varnish.

All clean, ready for a rebuild.

[dschup]

The fuel pump cleaned up nicely, one less thing to do.