1967 Vert and Brakes

[Taederbug]

So, I am hoping to get an idea of what I can do next. I have been going through the brakes on my 1967 vert and have had not luck getting them to work. Here is exactly what I have done up to this point.

Replaced Master cylinder
Replaced All 4 wheel cylinders
Replaced all metal lines
Replaced all rubber lines

Bleed close to a pint of break fluid through the lines
With the master cylinder connected to the reservoir. I loosened the three out going lines individually (the metal lines going to the rear and the two front) until some break fluid seeped out and then tightened them back up again. I was told that this would work instead of doing a bench bleed. I even did a gravity bleed and opened the back passenger side line till brake fluid seeped out.

Problem. No matter how many time I pump the brakes it does not build up more than a small squirt of pressure. Brake fluid is coming out of all 4 bleeders but i get no pressure to activate the cylinders and engage the brakes on the front or back.

Suggestions? Thanks for any help you can give me in advance.

[wayne1230cars]

Because you have replaced all the major brake components, there will be a lot of air that needs to be bled out. I’ve done this on several occasions and was successful only after I made sure that all shoes were adjusted tight to the drum. I would adjust the first shoe so that it is firmly dragging. Then I adjust the other shoe fully tight. Do this on all four wheels and then start the adjustment. The bleeding can take a while. Be patient. Make sure all your connection points are tight so that air is not being pulled back into the system.

I have used the gravity bleeding process initially. I think it helped. Do all 4 wheels.
_________________
1960 beetle
1970 beetle convertible

[Taederbug]

Thanks, I will try that this weekend. You have given me new hope! I will adjust the stars so i have drag on all 4 hubs and see if that gives me pressure?

Was so pumped after having temporarily given up on the brakes. I replaced the rubber fuel lines and put in a couple of filters, replaced the fuel pump and replaced the plugs and wires and the old bug cranked right up yesterday afternoon after having set in a garage and then a back yard since 1988.

[Cusser]

[KTPhil]

Is your pushrod/pedal stop adjusted correctly, so that there is the correct freeplay? If not, that could prevent proper fluid flow for bleeding.

To adjust (very important!):

THIS TIME ONLY: Check from the pedal tip to the bulkhead, and adjust the pedal stop. The template below shows two lengths for Bugs (pre-'69 and '69-on), and surprisingly the change does not coincide with the change to dual master ('67), so I'd go for a split of at least 8.5 Inches.

THEN adjust the pushrod to get the right play.

IN THE FUTURE, adjust the pedal stop ONLY, and never again the rod. This ensures adequate pedal travel in case one circuit fails in your dual circuit '67.

[Taederbug]

Awesome, Thanks, I will make that proper adjustment.

[KTPhil]

Just a note as to why this might be your problem: If there isn't a little freeplay between the rod and the piston inside the master, there are ports inside the master cylinder that are covered when they shouldn't be, preventing proper fluid flow with the pedal up. It can also cause your brakes to drag, overheating them. Fortunately, once you set it per above, it's a quick check pushing the pedal by hand, and feeling for the 1mm gap (which shows as about 10mm or so at the pedal tip).

One step I should have mentioned is to vacuum up all the dirt and crud at the pedal pivot so that doesn't throw off your settings.