CB Maxi 26 pump

[rodeking]

As seen below. You can see the cover is designed to block off the discharge port and send the oil to the filter. The discharge port in the pump body is not plugged and I did not plug the discharge port in the case. But now I'm thinking maybe I should plug the port in the pump body to prevent any possible bypassing around the filter. This pump has .0045 between the drive gear and the cover. Run it as is or plug it? My instinct is to plug it.

[mikedjames]

Looks to me like the pump cover blocks off the outlet oil way. The gasket may have a hole in it matching the connection to the 'output' oil gallery in the engine block, but the gallery will be sealed shut by that gasket, blanked off by the cover.

Same pump body, different pump cover with an in and out and you have a model that needs no case drilling and tapping. E.g. a Maxi 3 like mine.

Now for the messing around with the CB socket head bolts instead of studs - either too long and they bottom out or too short and they strip the thread in the block by the time you have the cover tight enough.

On the Maxi 3 you can still use studs and nuts for the two right hand holes in the pump cover. On the left you will need the lower profile of the socket head bolts to miss the tinware.
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[rodeking]

The gasket doesn't block off the port so I just drilled the port to 27/64 and made a plug and pressed it in. There was a reason I didn't go with the Maxi 3 but I can't remember why, maybe the size of the fittings or something. I'll have to see what to do with the screws, probably just buy some longer ones.
Thanks.

[mark tucker]

I usualy use a push in oil gally plug and plug them.I dont tap them like most do, your way will be fine as frogs hair.

[rodeking]

Just realized this plug method could make it a real PITA to pull the pump out if necessary since there is no way to hook a puller on to the outlet port. Looks like a plug on the OD of the body will cause the same problem. So how do you get these out with the outlet plugged? I think I can put a couple jack screw holes in the flange next to the existing holes.

[allamaabroad]

Blind hole puller and a slide hammer. Pull the drive gear, find the puller that fits best in the shaft bore, then slide hammer it out
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[mcmscott]

If you actually look at this pump and understand flow, you will realize it is fine as it is. It will be a regular f/f pump with the cover that comes with it, nothing is needed.
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[Type 5 Joe]

I would ditch that set-up altogether... For sure use a deep sump / extra oil capacity if you are going to rev it.

I use a drysump on my really hot engines.

Most projects I do use a 26-30mm pump... I usually buy 6 at a time and return 3-4 of the crappy ones.

Then I use a Gene berg nodular iron pump cover.
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[rodeking]

I decided to just leave it as is. If the pump has to be pulled for something more serious than a leak then the case usually has to be split anyway. I used a little 518 on the flange so that should take care of any leaks between the body and the case.

I understand how it works. But with the outlet port left open in the pump body and .004 clearance between the drive gear and cover then a .003 piece of whatever could possibly get into the oil galley thru the outlet port. The plug makes sure that won't happen.

This is on a little 1679 double cab that will get driven to cruise nights and to the local DQ for ice cream, it doesn't need a deep sump.

If someone did want to make it easy to remove the pump then I think two M6 x 1.0 holes in the flange would do it. Pull the cover, thread two long cap screws into the holes and jack it out.

[[email protected]]

The pump is fine. They do this so they can use the same pump with different pump COVERS to address different needs. One with full flow, and one without it.
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