Flat spot, stalling, stuttering, need help...

[hazmatty3614]

First ACVW.
69 Ghia Autostick.
PO says 1600 installed in 2004.
Carb is a single and doesn't seem to have any logos on it.
Dist seems to be 009 with vacuum. One vacuum line to carb.
Did plugs, wires, rotor, cap, and Pertronix to lose points.

Was running poorly.

Timed to 7.5 BTDC with rotor pointing to #1 notch.
Backed volume screw out to 2.5 turns.
Started motor, running fast and seemed rich.

Used a tach and bypass screw to achieve 900 RPM at idle.
Wanted to die, had to raise it up to about 1000 RPM to keep running.

Went for a ride and it had a bad flat spot on take off and accelerating.
First time hitting the gas it stalled.
Later, taking off from a stop sign, stalled again/
Slowing to my driveway, it backfired.
Had to feather the pedal to get into the garage without stalling.
Runs well at speed though.

I know there are many things that could be wrong, but as a beginner, I could use a point in the right direction. Nearest ACVW shop is 25 miles from here.

[c21darrel]

Congrats on your purchase!
009's don't have vacuum, not sure what dist you have...or carb. No name suggests cheap Chinese replacement . Sure looks shiny .
I don't know much about autostick cars...but several here do

Id suspect carb and or dist not playing well together. I don't trust cheap carbs. If I were you I would contact Volksbiz and get Tims opinion...and follow it.
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GhiaBuild
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[bhartwell59]

Go here: vwar.org

Your hoses to the control value (for autostick shifting) and carb are hooked up to the wrong ports.
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'74 Zambezi green Ghia vert, autostick, 101k
'87 Jeep Wrangler, 4.2, 330k

[runamoc]

With the engine not running. Take the air filter off and look down into the carb. Move the throttle lever towards 'wide open' with your finger. You should see some gas squirt out of the end of a U shaped brass pipe towards the throttle plate. That's your accelerator pump discharge pipe. The accelerator pump diaphragm is behind the square plate on the back of the carb. ALL carbs have an acceleration pump so they don't stumble at the instant of acceleration. Inherent design flaw.
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Daily driver: '69 Baja owned 44 yrs - Plan B: '81 Rabbit Diesel LS Deluxe - Plan C: '72 Ghia
Yard Art: 2 Sandrails
Outback: '69 Ghia - '68,'69,'70,'72 Beetle - '84 Scirocco, GTI - Pair of '02 Golfs-
VW Wiring = It's just wires

[hazmatty3614]

Now that spring has sprung, I finished up some other tasks and revisited my poor running motor.

The original motor was an H case static timed to 7.5 BTDC.
Current motor is an AE case which I believe gets static timed to 5 ATDC.

I timed it to 7.5 after, and I think this is the root of the problems. 12.5 degrees off sounds like ALOT.

Can anyone confirm the correct static timing for the AE case motor?

It’s an SVDA dist and a 34 pict 3.

The autostick likes about 950rpm and to get to that speed I have to adjust the carb way out of spec.

[Paul70Ghia]

The ae engine originally had a dual vacuum distributor. If you’ve got an svda distributor time it to 7.5btdc and should run ok.
Vw-resource.com has some good information on timing and carb set up, the 21/2 turns is just a starting point for adjustment.

[Era Vulgaris]

[fes]

The only foolproof method of timing a VW with any combo of carb/distributor is to set it at 28-32 degrees BTDC at full advance with engine at 3000+RPM..
I always use a degree pulley,but you have the option of printing this after you scale it and use..https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/degree_wheel.php
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/degree_wheel.php
Disconnect the advance hose from your distributor and plug it with a golf tee,leave the other end connected to your carb..

Hook up your timing light,loosen the nut on the distributor...IF you have a tach/dwell meter (you should and they're cheap) hook it up,shine your light on the case half parting line and bring the car up to 3000-3500 RPM..set the timing to 28 degrees BTDC..and let the timing land where it falls at idle..

Hook up the hose back to the distributor and check it at idle..I wouldn't be surprised if its at the 7.5 +/- mark..
Good luck
-Matt

Another note.. A dwell meter takes the guess work out of setting points..which you are going to want to ensure are correct before you adjust timing
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'68 Campmobile-Pedro
'15 Golf-Stella Blau
'56 Oval-The Turd (for now)

[Era Vulgaris]

[hazmatty3614]

Verified TDC on #1. #2 exhaust rocking and #1 both stationary.
Turned pulley counterclockwise to 7.5 BTDC as per Pertronix for SVDAs.
Rotor pointing to #1 cylinder (between 1 and 2:00).
Connected test light.
Key on.
Loosened dist. clamp.
Turned SVDA counterclockwise ~1/2” and test light lit up.
Tightened dist. clamp.
Key off.

Back to TDC on #1.
Opened valve 1 and 2 cover.
Feeler gauge in #1 intake and exhaust, only a .002 would fit.
Adjusted to .006.
Will continue to #3 and 4 tomorrow.

This valve adjustment should make a noticeable difference in idle?

[jwold]

I thought the auto stick vw's had a very specific carb that they ran with.

[hazmatty3614]

I read the 34 pict 3 works well but I need to drill out a vacuum boss and move a vacuum line. The vacuum port I’m using for shifting isnfor retard which my svda doesn’t have so it should be capped.

[kurt912]

Most will also recommend getting that fuel filter out of the engine compartment...
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1964 MG Midget MK1 Monte Carlo Replica
1969 Karmann Ghia Coupe
1972 Mercedes 250 Coupe

[hazmatty3614]

After many hours of tuning I took my plugs out today. Very fouled after very little running time. Notably, the #4 plug came out after only turning 1 turn. This plug was wet with oil. Last time I timed it, while turning it over to #1, I noticed a sound which I now know is compression leaking from that cylinder. Unfortunately the new plug went in crossed, so this week I’ll use the thread chaser and get a new plug.

Safe to say no compression on #4 caused power loss, stumble, and misfire at load?

[CiderGuy]

[KoMbI19]

Also to note, correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like a 30 carb, not a 34. you have a stepper adapter plate going to a larger to smaller bolt pattern. I had the same instance on my Ghia when I bought it, swapped it for a 34 PICT-3 and it has greatly helped. Also running electronic ignition in my SVDA.
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1972 Karmann Ghia Coupe- all stock
1982 Rabbit Convertible FI- all original
2006 Chevy Colorado Z71- 215k and still kicking!

[KoMbI19]

Also getting hesitation at initial takeoff in 1st, and almost chokes itself if you dump the throttle even when sitting still in neutral. Timed 3,500 RPM @ 28-30 and adjusted carb to no avail.
_________________
1972 Karmann Ghia Coupe- all stock
1982 Rabbit Convertible FI- all original
2006 Chevy Colorado Z71- 215k and still kicking!

[PolarBearVW]

I'm a rookie with these as well...but my gut tells me you are running rich.
Any idea what jets are in there? I think you can lean it out with the Air mix screw (larger one for tuning).
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1974 Ghia Coupe

[c21darrel]

[KoMbI19]

No, it's an SVDA, with electronic points. I did realize that one of my plug wires was corroded and barely hanging on the cylinder 4 plug.
_________________
1972 Karmann Ghia Coupe- all stock
1982 Rabbit Convertible FI- all original
2006 Chevy Colorado Z71- 215k and still kicking!