loctite on gland nut?

[rodeking]

Got the end play to .0045. Time for this gland nut thing, do you use blue on it? Wilson says 300 ft-lbs, should be good for a little 1679 right?

Sometimes I still get a swollen gland, or is that an organ?

[modok]

Maybe, some do.
I'd just put oil on it. Main thing is get an accurate torque.

[rodeking]

OK, will just use oil, I hate cleaning that stuff out of a blind hole if it has to be reassembled.

[bugguy1967]

Yes, oil only. Also, turn the stamped side of the washer away from the flywheel, and take time to deburr any high spots on the underside of the gland nut's hex before tightening. SCAT makes the smoothest gland nut out of all I've seen.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[rodeking]

Well it's already on so I think I'll leave it but I will keep that in mind for next time. Not sure what Herr Dr. Porsche was thinking when he designed this setup but it is simple and does the job I guess. A four cap screw design would have required a larger OD flange to be forged on the end of the crank, no big deal but I'm sure he had his reasons.

[mark tucker]

I use molly lube on the threads, on the washer face and deburr the nut flats so they do not dig into the washer.then twerk my ass off.....also I like tighter end play.

[modok]

[Zundfolge1432]

[maui]

Why, I bin using couple drops of red every time and 400 lbs for fourty years and never had a problem and I sure others do the same. No big deal.

[mcmscott]

[Type 5 Joe]

Yes this is true to some degree...

Makes you wonder how many hours they could be working on a project... Gaining actual hands-on experience, instead of hanging out here.

There is one guy on here that thinks he is the bee's knee's ... And has has some others believing that too. But he all about the "going to build a roller cam engine someday"... "Going to do this, going to do that,.. Blah, Blah, Blah...

Truth is he's the biggest Idiot on her, and will never do anything with his life.

-Oh yah, lube, Torque, re-shim as needed... Then de-grease and add a couple drops of red. I use the Gene Berg Forged Gland Nut / Washer exclusively on my Type I-III bases engines.
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I don't use the P.M. service on here.

[rodeking]

Well you guys have convinced me to pull it off again, massage the washer and nut, moly lube it and retorque to 325. I have a 250 torque wrench and I use a cheater pipe on it gripped at the right distance.

Herr Porsche or Rabe's wife must have been on their ass that day to fix that leaky faucet and they got the bright idea to use this setup to hold on a flywheel

[UK Luke 72]

Most critical fasteners in an engine? Rod bolts, and they're stretched with lube not threadlock

It's the elastic deformation of a fastener that holds it tight. Flying in dry increases the friction both between the threads and under the bolt head so more of the actual torque is lost to friction and not utilised in actually 'stretching' the bolt.

Moly is ideal as it'll hold up to the heat and has anti galling properties. Although nothing wrong with good old engine oil
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[ac509]

[modok]

BE CAREFUL, a stock gland nut is only made of screw machine steel, and if you use moly it may increase the effective torque 10-20%

So if you have a torque spec which is for oiled bolt, and you use moly on it instead, drop the torque 10%
.
Also if you have a bolt with a LARGER head, that increases friction, like a larger clutch disk, more grip/leverage, so you have to increase the torque some amount based on how much larger the head is.

Having it come loose is bad, but stripping the threads or breaking the head off the thing halfway through the race because you over-tightened it is equally not fun.

So, just have to take all the factors into account basically. Even the crank. if it's a cast crank.....don't push it, they are weaker.
The reason ARP moly lube works so well is it produces a very predictable amount of friction, no matter if the surfaces are new or old, smooth or rough........and when it comes to torquing fasteners that's what you want.....predictable results!!

[modok]

[bugguy1967]

Oh yeah, cast cranks! I've used a few strokers, and stuck to the factory value. They'll obviously strip easier than a forged crank.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[volksworld]

the thing i dont like about loctite on a gland nut is trying to get it all cleaned off so you get an accurate torque result the next time you have to replace it

[chrisflstf]

[modok]

I'm just glad you guys understand... not to screw a dry hole.
Which sauce is going to give you the best overall result is UP To YOU.
if it feels good at the time but if you end up regretting it later.......? is that the best you can do?
Tho I admit it's a tough spot to work with. You don't want to get moly on the clutch, so, just a little dab will do ya, and moly itself is a PITA, get any on YOU, can't touch anything white for a week.