Dodgy headlight switch 211 941 531B

[stevespeirs]

For starters, not sure I have the correct switch for a Late Bay. From what I've read it should be 211 941 531E and not the currently installed 211 941 531B.

I'm also getting some inconsistent results when I pull the headlight switch (ignition on). First pull turns on the parking lights, side marker lights as expected. Second pull only sometimes turns on the headlights. I can wiggle the switch a little to get the headlights to turn on, but it's not consistent and obviously not correct. All connections seem okay and the terminals are clean.

I've emailed Ken at TheBusco to check his stock availability, but want to make sure 211 941 531E is the correct switch. If so, what are the extra terminals on the E switch compared to the B switch for? As far as I can tell the 1979 wiring diagram only shows 6 connections - X, 30(x2), 56, 58, 58b, so what's the purpose of the 58L and 58R on the 211 941 531E switch?

Thanks as always for any help!
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1979 Microbus

[busdaddy]

[stevespeirs]

[stevespeirs]

Update - there was a tiny piece of cracked bakelite floating around inside the switch which I removed. Reconnected the terminals and the light switch now works correctly on both first pull, second pull and rotating the knob to adjust instrument brightness.

Next problem - pulling the headlight dimmer lever actuates the relay (I can hear the click), but it doesn't switch between low/high beam. Turn signals (both directions) work fine. The dimmer relay is a 5 prong unit with jumper between 56 and 30.

In other news, thanks to the advice from other threads, I've managed to get the original horn, interior dome lights and, heaven help me, the ignition door buzzer working again. Slowly but surely making progress...
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1979 Microbus

[busdaddy]

Do the high beams come on as long as you are pulling the signal lever?

Might be time to open up that relay too, sometimes you can restore the latching action by carefully tweaking the ear the spring mounts on.
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[stevespeirs]

[busdaddy]

Hmmm..., rather strange that nothing happens to the lights when it clicks, maybe your PO bypassed it somewhere?
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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[SGKent]

if you have low beams and the relay clicking does not change it to high beams, what does it change to? Stay low beams? go dark?

Be aware that the factory setup does not allow the lights to flash when they are off. HOWEVER there is a mod that allows one to set their highbeams to flash when the lever is pulled when the lights are in the off position. That mod requires a different relay and wiring change than the original factory setup. I made that mod on my own 77 bus but I labeled everything so the next person knows what I have done.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[telford dorr]

Apparently every country other than the US has the flashing relay (which is probably why it's the only one you can buy as a replacement...) No big deal: if you want the US version of operation, tie the 30 terminal (the extra one) to 56. The only difference you'll see is that the high beams are on anytime you hold the turn lever up while the headlights are on. If you want European operation, tie 30 to the red bus section in the fuse block (full time 12 volts). The high beams will light when you hold the lever up, regardless of the headlight switch setting. You must tie 30 to something, otherwise the headlights won't light at all. Be sure to use a retaining type terminal that locks itself into the fuse block for the 30 connection.
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'71 panel, now with FI
'Experience' is the ability to recognize a mistake when you're making it again - Franklin P. Jones
In theory, theory works in practice; in practice, it doesn't - William T. Harbaugh
When you're dead, you don't know you're dead. The pain is only felt by others.
Same thing happens when you're stupid. - Philippe Geluck
More VW electrical at http://telforddorr.com/ (available 9am to 9pm PST)

[SGKent]

[stevespeirs]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

if you think you have a bum switch let me know. somehow I ended up with a glut of VERY clean OE switches and the rheostat worms are in fantastic shape. i'll let one go for 1.2m free shipping and insurance too

I have never had luck popping a switch open. seems I kill the dimmer side of things.
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[telford dorr]

If you have a switch which has a terminal 57, I'll take one of those right now! If it also has a terminal X, then so much the better. (Don't know about the 1.2m... )

Yeah, about those dimmers: 99% have bad glue holding them into the bakelight housing. Getting one out intact is tricky at best. On the other hand, if not too badly mangled, slide it over a suitable rod or small screwdriver and carefully reshape the coil. Then glue it back into the housing with a thin strip of J/B weld in the bottom of the housing groove.
_________________
'71 panel, now with FI
'Experience' is the ability to recognize a mistake when you're making it again - Franklin P. Jones
In theory, theory works in practice; in practice, it doesn't - William T. Harbaugh
When you're dead, you don't know you're dead. The pain is only felt by others.
Same thing happens when you're stupid. - Philippe Geluck
More VW electrical at http://telforddorr.com/ (available 9am to 9pm PST)

[stevespeirs]

Well, I thought I'd fixed everything with you guys help yesterday - main beams/low beams working with the turn signal lever and headlights working consistently with new aftermarket switch.

Today, I've found a new issue. When I pull the hazard knob (no key in ignition), the hazards flash but there's a weird "clicking/pulsing" noise from somewhere near the rear of the bus. You can hear it in the background of the following video (might need to turn the volume up a bit). Any ideas what this could be?

Update: the noise also happens with key in ignition and turned to accessory position (i.e. not engaging the starter).

Apologies for all the questions - hopefully this will be the last fix for a while.


Link

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1979 Microbus

[stevespeirs]

More info...

I checked the wiring from the hazard switch. All looks good and the wires appear to go to their correct locations. I did find a weird jumper at the back of the fuse box from fuse 12 to the hazard relay though. What purpose would that serve?

Also, not sure if it's relevant - the PO removed the heater/blower from the engine bay, but the wiring and relay are still in place. Would that be a factor?

The Bus also has a BA6 heater - PO didn't know it existed and doubt it's been started up in years. I have no plans to touch it at the moment either, but thought it was worth mentioning in case it helps with the current issue.

Feel like I'm going around in circles, but at least I'm starting to get familiar with the wiring diagram
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1979 Microbus

[telford dorr]

[busdaddy]

[stevespeirs]

[stevespeirs]

Oh so close

Removed the jumper and the hazards work correctly with key out i.e. pull the knob, hazards flash, no weird clicking/pulsing sound, no alternator/oil light illuminated in the dash. Great stuff!

However, with key turned to accessory position, alternator/oil light illuminate as expected, but the clicking/pulsing noise kicks in right away. Hazards work correctly, parking lights/headlights are fine with the light switch, and even the turn signal dimmer works (pull on/pull off). Annoying door buzzer sounds with key in and door open. Interior light works with door open too. Everything is good aside from that clicking/pulsing from somewhere near the rear of the Bus when ignition key is turned to accessory position.

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I can't thank you all enough for the excellent advice. One more fix and I think we're done!
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1979 Microbus

[stevespeirs]

Final update.

1. Switched out the dimmer relay for a new one from Wolfsburg West -
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111941583

2. Hooked up the Euro flasher/dimmer mod as detailed by Tcash -