| Author |
Message |
erdonline
Samba Member
Joined: September 26, 2004
Posts: 943
Location: CT
|
 Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 9:30 pm Post subject: |
 |
|
Thanks. I'll give Van Cafe a call for the other gaskets (though I might try to get them locally if I really get rolling on the project on Monday when I come back from camping. As for the cut off Allen socket, another guy here at the campground said the same thing! I'm here camping at Buses by the Buoy in Maine, but wanted to check for responses so I'm all ready when I get back. I've had to turn my '84 7-passenger into a half camper since the Westfalia is laid up with the bad water pump.
Thanks,
Ed
_________________
'85 Vanagon Westfalia
'84 Vanagon 7-passenger
'98 Mexican air-cooled Beetle |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
msewalson
Samba Member
Joined: September 14, 2009
Posts: 544
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
Just did the WP a couple of weeks ago in my Syncro. I honestly thought it was going to be a huge pain in the a$$ but it really wasn't. The thing I have found when wrenching on the Syncro is patience and time. I didn't pull the crank pulley and didn't use any special gasket materials and have no leaks. The WP came with 2- O rings and a paper gasket. One of the O-rings was for the mating of water pump to engine and the second one was for the mating of WP to thermostat cooling pipe. The gasket was for the cross over pipe that runs behind the crank pulley. I also replace the oil cooler to water pump hoses while I was in their and also installed a new oil pressure switch as well. I used Ben's instructions, again, and they are spot on. No problems getting the hex head bolts out but did have to cut down an allen wrench a bit so it could squeeze in behind the crank pulley to fit into the hex bolt. Also had a bit of a problem with the lower hex bolt on the cross over pipe, kept wanting to cross thread. I ended up pulling the pump out and cleaning up the threads on the WP but I like the idea of putting studs on it, just not very long ones.
Matt
_________________
87 Syncro w/EJ22 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
erdonline
Samba Member
Joined: September 26, 2004
Posts: 943
Location: CT
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 11:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
I haven't given my 2.1 a close look in a while, but I do know the 1.9 and 2.1 are different in terms of replacing the water pump, and it seems that most people say that the 1.9 is harder, or at least requires more time and patience. Ben's place is the site for the 2.1 instructions. Tom's VW pages is the place for the 1.9. (and of course the Samba is the place to go when you're still having trouble.
Ed
_________________
'85 Vanagon Westfalia
'84 Vanagon 7-passenger
'98 Mexican air-cooled Beetle |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
cdmclaughlin
Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2017
Posts: 19
Location: Santa Cruz, California
|
| Posted: Sat Oct 20, 2018 6:23 pm Post subject: Re: water pump replacement + Bentley = stupid question |
|
|
| Reviving an old thread here but I am trying to figure out the gaskets that do not come with the water pump for the 1.9L (I have a 1984). I have the yellow O-ring for the long pipe running to the right head (the lower one, I think). I am ordering from GoWesty the gasket for the stainless steel elbow that is for the other pipe (part number N901-288-02, number 34 on the schematic). What I can't find is a listing anywhere for item number 39 on the schematic, which is the gasket for the long pipe (the one with the yellow O-ring on the other end). Are the mounts the same. Can I just get two of the gaskets for the other pipe or must I cut a gasket? And while I am at it, what size is the Allen slot for the bolts? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jlrftype7
Samba Member
Joined: July 24, 2018
Posts: 3582
Location: Chicago
|
| Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2018 8:29 pm Post subject: Re: water pump replacement + Bentley = stupid question |
|
|
| cdmclaughlin wrote: |
| Reviving an old thread here but I am trying to figure out the gaskets that do not come with the water pump for the 1.9L (I have a 1984). I have the yellow O-ring for the long pipe running to the right head (the lower one, I think). I am ordering from GoWesty the gasket for the stainless steel elbow that is for the other pipe (part number N901-288-02, number 34 on the schematic). What I can't find is a listing anywhere for item number 39 on the schematic, which is the gasket for the long pipe (the one with the yellow O-ring on the other end). Are the mounts the same. Can I just get two of the gaskets for the other pipe or must I cut a gasket? And while I am at it, what size is the Allen slot for the bolts? |
Just did my 1.9 a couple of weeks ago- Gaskets appeared to be the same on both my upper and lower pipes- I did not have any issues with access around the Factory A/C to remove the water pump and thermostat housing as a full assembly.
For the 25mm/ 1” hose that connects the drivers side head to the back of the water pump assembly and also the lower pipe on the passenger side at its mating connection with the metal pipe near the Altn, I used bulk 1” heater hose from NAPA. Very affordable and you now have a bag of 1” hose that neatly fits those short hose connections that you cut your own to fit as needed.
Use your old hose as a guide for length, if the hose behind the water pump is a bit too long in length on your new hose, you’ll struggle to push the hose onto the outlet pipe that it mates up with and get the pump to easily bolt up to the engine. That one connection is a tight fit, and is not a straight shot in terms of plane, the two pipes don’t meet up in a straight line, so your hose may have a bit of a kink to it once fully tightened down.
I installed the hose onto the pump first, tightened the clamp, left the other clamp loose on it and installed the pump assembly , working the other end of the short hose onto that mating pipe with an O-ring pick to help evenly start it around the barb of the pipe.
I recommend silicone grease, light smear on either of these two 1”/25mm hoses when you’re working with them to help install the hoses.
Allen bolts should be 8mm x 20mm long, 1.25mm pitch, 6mm Allen wrench fits them. The tight access one is the inner one nearest the crank pulley.
My regular Allen drive socket fit the outer Allen easily with a 3/8” ratchet since you’re further away from the crank pulley.
You can also cut a short piece off a spare 6mm Allen wrench, about 1/2” in length with an abrasive saw and use a 6 point 6mm box wrench with that bit to crack the Allen bolts loose if they’re really tight. You’ll get more torque and less risk of stripping out the Allen bolt head than if you use the Ball Driver style Allen Wrench for initial loosening. Ball drive style would be fine to use once you’ve loosened the bolt.
I used Zinc/Aluminum plated Allen bolts from Mc-Master Carr, more corrosion resistance than Black Oxide or plain Zinc plated bolts, but also added anti-seize on the threads for extra protection before I installed them.
The new stainless steel lower pipe that I ordered from Van Cafe to replace my heavily rust pitted one came with stainless steel Allen bolts, but I already had the bag of zinc-aluminum plated bolts from Mc-Master Carr, so I ran with those.
_________________
'68 Westy- my first VW and vehicle/Bus- long gone.- sold it to a traveling Swiss couple....
'67 Type 3 Fastback, my 2nd car- gone
'69 Semi-Auto Stick Shift Beetle-gone
2017 MINI Coopers, our current DDs
‘84 Tin Top - Hilga....Auto |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
