Refurbishing my '77 Westy Campmobile

[Amskeptic]

[Abscate]

[Cap10323]

[Cap10323]

I am replacing the fuel lines again. The first time I replaced them, I used braided line, and now I am paranoid that I have a leak somewhere. Due to one of the lines feeling very slightly damp, and a faint fuel smell.

Before you ask, yes, I haven't driven the bus since noticing this.

However, I would like to replace the CSV as well, since it feels a little "jiggly" at the connection between the plastic and the metal, and I've heard that's pretty much the ticking time-bomb of bus fires.

I know the original style, passthrough CSV's are long since NLA, but I am curious. Would it be possible to use one of the modern, single entry CSV's by adding a small T-Fitting inline, and just running my own line to it?

I would delete the CSV all together, but I'm afraid it will impact starting.

Input greatly appreciated on this.
_________________
-Ian

'77 Westfalia - 2.0 F.I

[Cap10323]

Discovered the fuel line isn't wet because of gas, but because it's resting against the breather gasket, and the breather gasket is leaking. Fuel line is ruined, but at least it's not the CSV leaking.


However, I've decided I'm just not comfortable re-using this CSV. It simply has too much play to be safe.

This is my plan to replace it with an off-the-shelf bosch part, which is essentially identical, but only has one inlet port.

You'll have to bear with me, I've never been much of an artist.

Here's the current system

And here's my solution.

Is there any reason why this shouldn't work?
_________________
-Ian

'77 Westfalia - 2.0 F.I

[Cap10323]

Drained the fuel, and replaced all the lines today.

Used Continental FI Hose, and used a mixture of Swedish ABA clamps on the line connections, and some of BusDepot's clamps on the injector barbs, since they were a larger size.

The CSV retrofit was pretty straight forward, used a brass fuel "T" From BusDepot, and some more of those ABA clamps. It fitted up nicely.
(feel free to shame me for my dirty tin)

The only issue is, the gasket that it comes with must be for the Volvo that uses this style, as it's totally the wrong thickness, and created a huge vacuum leak for me. Ended up having to make my own gasket out of sheet cork.

Once installed and hooked up, it functions flawlessly, even better than the original IMO. I think the flow rate is slightly higher on this style, as cold starts are absolutely effortless now. Literally one single revolution of the engine, and it lights off. Compared to 3-4 revolutions with the old CSV.

I replaced all the tank lines, and evap hoses as well. Might as well do everything while I've got the tubing cutters and clamps out.

I also tidied up the engine compartment a bit, which included removing the burned out booster fan (useless since I removed the heaterboxes anyway), and untangling, cleaning and cable-tying every loose vacuum line, wire, and fuel line into place.

Then I went for a drive in the autumn leaves.

I also picked up a table recently, as mine didn't come with it. It fits, and seems to work fairly well. But it just seems too big, like it was meant for a different interior configuration or something. Squeezing it past the seat cushion just seems way too tight.

_________________
-Ian

'77 Westfalia - 2.0 F.I

[ivwshane]

That table is too big. I think it might have been for the older westy's. In theory you could cut it to the correct size but it's probably easier to sell/trade for the correct one. The correct one is about 28.75" long and has an 8" extension that folds out.

Interesting idea using the brass T. When you say CSV retrofit, does that mean you swapped out the stock one for a different one? I can't really see it in the picture.
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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[notchboy]

[Cap10323]

[Cap10323]

Quick question,

My vent doesn't seem to seal up well, even with the lever in the closed position, a decent amount of air still comes into the cabin, which is rather annoying as the temperature is going down pretty far at night.

Do you know if there's a way to adjust the vent linkage to pull the vent tighter? Or should I be looking into replacing some gasket or seal somewhere.
_________________
-Ian

'77 Westfalia - 2.0 F.I

[busdaddy]

Unless it's been crashed the adjustment likely hasn't changed, so I'd look at the foam seals on the backs of the flaps first, wet suit material or weatherstripping from the hardware store will make them just like brand old.

If that fails your Bentley manual describes how to adjust the linkage.

Or get some magnetic sheet from your local sign shop and cover up the grill.
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[Cap10323]

[Cap10323]

No major updates, which is good. Everything is working well for the most part. Just changed the oil and filter yesterday, and fixed that pesky air leak I mentioned earlier.

A couple questions:

Ever since installing the new beam, the steering wheel isn't straight. I took the Bus in for an alignment, since I don't have a rack. And they said all is well on that front. It looks like I need to adjust the rod between the pitman arm and the tie rod pivot? Figured I'd ask before just messing with stuff.

Secondly, since installing the beam, there is an unusual amount of on-center vagueness. I can't feel any linkages with play in them, so I assume it's something with the steering box. I plan to adjust the screw on the side of the box, in order to tighten it up. But figured I'd ask here before doing so, incase anybody has any suggestions.
_________________
-Ian

'77 Westfalia - 2.0 F.I

[ToolBox]

[Cap10323]

First spring drive of the Bus since the weather is warm again finally.

Started right up after it's several month slumber. And a quick check of everything confirmed that there were no leaks, strange noises, or smells. So off we went.

Discovered why the steering wheel wasn't sitting straight though, my Guibo disintegrated! Ordered another from BD, and should be getting it shortly.

Plans for this spring include going over the bodywork again, as it's mostly just primer and paint over bare welded metal, and doesn't look that great. I'll be attempting to get better at the art of body filler to smooth things out a little bit using as little filler as humanly possible.

I also want to tackle the interior and do a really deep cleaning. Which will probably involve pulling some of the cabinets, the curtains, and all of the cushions out for a thorough cleaning, as well as pulling the "headliner" wood out front and rear and repainting it using my texturing technique I used on the side accent wood moulding.

After that, I have a bit of a drive planned in late May. About 200 miles round trip to a convention I've been attending for the last 12 years. I can't wait to test out the new suspension on a long drive.

Speaking of Suspension, I also bought matching KYB shocks for the rear since it somehow slipped my mind that there were shocks back there too. And so I'll change those out once the weather fully breaks and I can work on the bus outside without getting rained on.
_________________
-Ian

'77 Westfalia - 2.0 F.I

[Jetfxr69]

Nice rig. Im working mine this spring as well. Whats your manuf date? Curious about your paint color. Marinogelb?

Mine in NH.

My vin

[Jetfxr69]

Nice rig. Im working mine this spring as well. Whats your manuf date? Curious about your paint color. Marinogelb?

Mine in NH.

My vin

[Cap10323]

Hi Jet,

My bus is "chrome yellow"
_________________
-Ian

'77 Westfalia - 2.0 F.I

[Cap10323]

Hi all,
Figured I would do a little update here since it's been almost 6 months since my last post.

I'm happy to report that I have been driving the bus quite a bit this summer, and even after nearly 4,000 miles of mixed driving, I have had ZERO major issues (knock on veneered camper interior) during that time. I even daily-drove the bus for two weeks while I waited for parts to arrive for my normal daily driver!

A couple minor things have cropped up and been dealt with, like the sliding door latch handle cracking, and the gear shift needing the linkage fiddled with (popping while shifting), as well as failed brake light switch, and burned out high-beam indicator lamp.

I've got some plans for this fall/winter though. The biggest one is to pull out the windshield and replace the seal, as well as replace the rear vent window with a solid piece of glass, and I'd also like to install the replacement canvas I bought. But that's a huge job that really requires multiple people, something which I don't have.

I also discovered earlier this year that I have two broken off exhaust studs, and two studs which have been replaced by cheap bolts by the previous owner. Solidly not ideal, so I will probably be pulling the heads to drill the broken bolts/studs out and retap. I will budget for rebuilt heads just incase though, I'm not sure how big of a job this will be.


All in all though, the Bus is resting solidly in 'turnkey' status, and it's been nice to just hop in and go to work or on an errand. The ride with the rebuilt beam was pretty harsh for awhile while everything broke in, but now it rides like a dream and has surprised me with how well it actually handles for a vehicle of it's size and weight. Especially since I didn't think it drove badly before the suspension rebuild.

Lastly, how fast do you guys typically drive on the highway in a late FI bay? I usually cruise at 60 or maybe just over, and speed up to 65 occasionally to pass reckless drivers. But I've heard of people who regularly cruise at 70, and claim no issue.

Thanks for all the help so far.
-Cap
_________________
-Ian

'77 Westfalia - 2.0 F.I

[Jetfxr69]

Cap- nice job on everything. I too have been laying the miles down this summer and am behind you on the front beam work. That comes this winter for me. Steering is wicked sloppy and even fearless me doesnt like it. Ive been running mine around town at 60 and if neccessary up to 65-70, but no more due to the shitty steering.
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