2.1L Oil Pressure

[10degnorth]

Alrighty, so I’ve already ask this question on my build thread, but haven’t gotten an answer that satisfies me.

So I recently installed a 2.1L WBXer in my 1988 Vanagon. Nearly everything on the exterior of the engine has been replaced, save for a couple items, unfortunately including the oil pump. I’m not sure if/when this engine has ever been rebuilt, only that it had good compression when I bought it from a local VW mechanic.

So when I went to start the van up for the first time it worked, drove it around the block and came back to park it. A little later in the same day we were just doing some test with the new engine, revving it to some higher rpms to make sure that no lights turned on, etc... and well, of course a light comes on. The oil pressure light and buzzer go off. Park it in the garage and shut it off.

It was revved to around 3000rpm when the buzzer went off. We were hasty to get it moving, for a victory lap at the very least, so we filled it with the oil we had at the time, 5w-30, I realize that this is a little bit thin, planning on putting something a bit thicker in this weekend for the next test.

What are some possible issues that could cause the light and buzzer to go off? Could the thicker oil help? The pressure sending units I used were far from new, so maybe replacing those and the wiring could fix the issue if their bad? Would the GoWesty high volume oil pump help?

Thanks for any help you can provide, just really wanna get my van on the road.

[bobbyblack]

Yup, lots of us have had similar.

Oil, of course depends on what environment you'll be motoring in. Lots of advice in Dave's links.

For starters tho, I think Bently says 20-w50.

Go for a filter from the Bently as well, think you said you went with a Mann, but there are a few, some that have more capacity.

Also, it is a huge deal to get the REAL pressure tested, I know.

Least cost for starters is a (warmed up oil) oil change and long Mann filter.

There is always a possibility that you've got a blue foil disorder.

Step #1: follow Bently filter and oil... (Collect Underwear)

Step #2: ?

Step #3: Profit!

Also, just to add... its the oil light at idle with engine warm/hot that is your sure indicator of blowing your engine soon... (assuming steps 1-3 above are completed)

-bobby
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'87 Westy 'Flossie','86 Westy 'R1','86 tintop GL - Subi2.2 'J2','83.5 stock tintop L 'ZoomBus','74 Karmann Ghia, '63 Notch

[djkeev]

Get a gauge, not even a dash gauge, screw in into the lower left oil sender port (GET THE CORRECT THREAD ADAPTER,! Do not guess at this)

Get an oil pressure reading...... hot and cold at various rpms.

With this information you can now make intelligent decisions.

It may be nothing.
It may be the oil filter
It may be the wrong oil,
It may be a worn out engine.

Dave
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Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[MarkWard]

The switch that controls the buzzer is to the left of the crank pulley in the case. It's tight to get to, but maybe the wrong switch was installed. Should verify the actual pressure with a gauge before you dig into the electronics.
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[blockhead squarewheels]

I installed oil temp and pressure gauges. I cant recomed this enough. I switched to 10w60 redline as a result. 20w50 costrol gave great pressure when at 180f, but on long stretches in the central vally or on hills it would plumit to about 22 PSI at 4k rmp. Now it never goes below 40 PSI in the same conditions. I dont think synthetic is good for break in periods though

[stormforge]

I would change to a heavier oil first and you may be good to go -- in my experience 5W30 is too thin. Also make sure you don't fill too full. If my engineis much over 3/4 on the dipstick I sometimes see low oil pressure from the crank beating the oil to a froth so I try to keep it at the 1/2 mark (your milage/dipstick may vary... ).

-Bill

[10degnorth]

Oil switched over to 20w-50

Oil pressure buzzer/idiot light now goes off at 3000rpm rather than the 2000rpm it did with the 5w-30.

Maybe a step in the right direction? I'm still learning and not exactly sure what this means. and tips or help would be appreciated. Wondering if there's anything else I can do to continue to improve this.

Pulling out our oil pressure gauge probably this weekend and gonna get a real reading. That should tell me if the sensor are any good and hopefully the root of this issue.

Thanks for the help so far

[DigiMatrix]

When the oil pump was changed, what was the gasket thickness for the oil pump cover? When I did mine, the Victor Reinz gasket kit came with a gasket that was 0.014" thick instead of 0.004" thick. Once the engine was warm, the oil pressure light came on at idle. Once I realized this issue, I checked the end play of the oil pump gears to the cover plate and found I had the clearance to run without the gasket. I have had no problems since.

[IdahoDoug]

FYI, he said the oil pump was NOT changed.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[0to60in6min]

may be you need this

https://www.vancafe.com/021115411-421AFT-p/021115411-421aft.htm

[mikemtnbike]

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't this be a good time to try adding the spacer to the oil pressure relief spring a la tencent?
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[10degnorth]

Ive heard about the oil pressure relief spring replacement, how does this work to improve oil pressure? Is it similar to the spaced mentioned by mikemtnbike?

[djkeev]

The springs get weak and open at too low of a pressure.
It is a great idea to try but first, hook up that oil pressure gauge and verify that you have a problem that needs fixing.

Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[MarkWard]

The wires for both oil pressure senders are the same color at the engine I believe. If you had the engine out, may have mixed them up. I find those original wires cooked all the time from heat.

Get a flashlight and look at the color of the pressure sender I mentioned above. There is a later switch, that drops the working pressure from .9 bar to .75 bar making it a little less sensitive.

Shimming the relief valve assumes the relief valve is open and bleeding oil pressure off. It's really there for cold oil startups, but a stronger spring or stacking some washers will make it harder to open, which could have a negative affect on cold morning startups. Once you get a pressure gauge on it and can read the pressures report back and we can stop guessing what to do.
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[Wildthings]

If an engine will not run under no load on 5w30 there is something wrong with it that needs to be fixed. I have run 30wt, 10w30, or 5w40 on every Vanagon engine I have had new or old and had no problems with hot oil pressure.

[doctorsemaphore]

Hey 10degree, I had a similar situation as you - purchased a worn out 86 syncro with 218k miles on engine with oil light/buzzer - did all that stuff mentioned above (correct oil, filter, new oil relief spring, new senders/wires) all to no avail. As a hail mary pass, and a last resort, I purchased a Go Westy Hi-volume oil pump, installed with engine in the car, AND never saw that pesky oil light again! In fact, I then drove the syncro on a 9000 mile trip around the country! Not bad for a vehicle that couldn't make out of Baltimore City without the engine exploding. Just sayin' that if your bearings are worn - then that oil pump is your only friend (and very reasonably price). This is my experience, hope this helps, Mike.

[10degnorth]

Have an oil pressure gauge on its way, arriving on Friday, will have more specific information on pressures then.

Do the wires that connect to the oil pressure sensors have to go to specific sensors? Because I definitely didn’t pay attention to that. Could you elaborate on that and how to possibly correct it.?

Doctorsemaphore, its good to hear that the high volume pump has an impact, I expect that if I do have a real issue with pressure that’s what I will be doing, to at least get some use out of this engine. If to no avail I will start looking into either a 1.8t or rebuilt WBX swap. But I still have hope that either a sensor is malfunctioning or the high volume oil pump will fix all the problems.

[RoryGirl]

Marco offers a Hi-volume oil pump as well

https://www.facebook.com/groups/VW-T3-Vanagon-WBX-...775318890/
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1991 Double door pop top conversion

[doctorsemaphore]

Yes, 10degree...just what you said, I just wanted to get some use out of that engine! Definitely do what the other sambanistas are saying (I did) but at the end of the day, if your bearings are worn, then Gowesty oil pump! That pump allowed that worn out engine to go another 30,000 miles (and over the Rockies several times) before the oil light again reared it's ugly head, and another engine went in!! Good luck, Mike

[10degnorth]

Found the issue. Super stupid solution. Its the most recent post on my main build log. Page 4, near the bottom.

Heres the link:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8918932#8918932