Here's Sonya, a Mexican 1974 beauty

[tonysantacruz]

Thanks, Busdaddy.
So, in order to complete the circuit, I'd have to use the wires from the fuse box to the different electrical outlets (or replace them). Ditto with the engine compartment?
Do the wires from the engine compartment reach their intended targets in the engine? or I need to do the same from the engine ports to the end of the loom?

I tried to get complete harnesses, but the only one I found it this: http://www.busdepot.com/211971028jc

This one is right out, no?

[tonysantacruz]

Looks like I found myself an electrician and he’ll work on the wiring, starting Monday.
And we have color!

Final color will be the sample on the left side of the pictures.

[tonysantacruz]

Finally! The electrician is going great, hopefully he’ll be done by Thursday. A bit of luck and my steering wheel is done within 10 days and I can be driving within 12.

[tonysantacruz]

A bit optimistic on my estimate. Yes, the steering wheel is here and...pretty much that’s it. The guy keeps fixing imperfections in the bodywork and the mechanic and electrician are sporadic shows. Maybe by the end of next week.

The engine needs to have the air filter connected and the canister, and, just on a lark, I asked about the thermostat.
Mechanic says it doesn’t have one. It’s a Tyle II engine, 1974, and I’m not sure if he’s snowing me or not.
It ahould be on the right side, under the bis, no? (At least that’s where it is under my 94 FI bug).
Here are the pictures, left side has the tin.

Also, my tires are ok?

Thanks.

[busdaddy]

Your tires are C rated so that's good, but I can't see enough of the carcass or a date stamp so I can't vouch for their overall health.

Some Mexi and Brazil cases didn't include a thermostat stud, looks like you have one, not a whole lot you can do easily to add one so I guess it's no thermostat for you.
Are the lower deflectors and sled tins removed for the photos?, or just plain missing? Can you post a few more photos looking straight up between the cylinders near the case?, I don't see a super important bit of tin and I'm hoping it's just the angle of the picture.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[tonysantacruz]

I’ll check, but I’m sure a lot of tin is still out of the engine compartment while they paint. I should have it all, but if not, I’ll get it. I ain’t overheating my baby.

[tonysantacruz]

The body work guy told me I have all the tins I should have.only hold-up now is the electrician. I offered a bonus if he completes the work this week.
After him, the mechanic starts the engine, and then the interiors guy and then we’re done.

[busdaddy]

Hmm...., your pics just don't show the area I'm wanting to see, so far it still looks like these are not in place, of all the tins they are the most critical and certain engine death will result without them (see below in this gallery pic).

You are also missing the deflectors, not a cause of immanent engine death, but lost cooling air is never good.

Since you are running J tubes instead of heat exchangers you'll also need the modified sled tins, something like this:

_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[Buggeee]

[tonysantacruz]

[busdaddy]

[tonysantacruz]

[sodbuster]

[tonysantacruz]

More movement this week:

[tonysantacruz]

Found a cluster with a type 3 (?)clock for 50 bucks. Here’s hoping it works.
Glass cover is complete, with the knob.
Is anything missing from the back?

[tonysantacruz]

So, i removed the nuts, but I can’t take the mechanism’s cover. Do I take a small screwdriver and try to pop it open?

[tonysantacruz]

I finally got the sucker open, and it looks like it has the usual points of failure. I’ll see if a local watch fixer can take a look at it and give it a good cleaning.
I wound back the little things, but they don’t make the clock move. I had to gently mive another wheel to make it move.

[busdaddy]

[tonysantacruz]

So, had another clock on order and it arrived today. Few differences between them:

New one winds, case is bigger, but it looks rougher. It has a broken piece next to the arm and one of the screws is bent.
Contacts are separated. Is that goog or bad?

[tonysantacruz]

We're inching towards the one year anniversary at the shop for my bus. I've had everything from disappearing and reappearing mechanics and electric guys.
The electric guy I waited on for a month until I got fed up and bombarded him with calls and a personal visit to his shop until he showed up. He's about 95% done, he needs to tweak a short with the horn and to solve an issue where the alternator is not charging the battery.

But the dash lights work! Yay! Now all that remains is a two page long list of interior details to put, glue, bolt and fasten. Double yay!

Two days ago, they finally hooked up the engine and started it, to adjust the timing and whatnot. It needs to be adjusted some more (the doghouse tin is lose) and they need to put the other tins I bought. Mechanic said they could lower the idling speed.

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But now I'm closer to driving my bus. It's been a damn long year, and I still love that lady.