74 super wiring whoas

[aero]

So i got this silly bug running, and now the electrical system is the next huge hurdle.

I'm not sure if it was working before but i doubt it.

When i turned it to on, seatbelt and brakes light came on and it would start.

Front flashers and blinkers worked, driver rear bulb blinked but not in the context location on tail light. Pass headlight lit up full power, driver headlight was just enough to light up the filament.

No brake lights, no running lights front or rear. Number 2 fuse is popped and i don't have any more of those type.

I tried jumping the driver headlight from pass harness and its brighter but not full brightness that pass is.

The battery was crap before and i think it's completely toast as i can't get lights or it to turn over even with a jump box.

Any input as of where to start. The electrical system looks like a nightmare, I'm wondering if it'd be better to just run new wires with a modern blade fuse panel for lights and convert the rest over as i go.

[bomberbob]

Pick a spot. Look at the ground for the dim headlight.
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1968 Beetle (storage)
1990 Jetta GLI megasquirted, burning E85 (currently in heavy maintenance)
2004 Jetta turbo GLI
Marion, Iowa

[aero]

I also jumped that ground to pass side ground that works with no change.

Apparently i need to buy another multi meter. I ordered a bunch of stuff off a list on this site including multi meter from harbor freight but they are quite possibly the slowest order fulfillment company on the internet.

[Bill T.]

Just went through my own woes with my 78 Super and the one piece of advice I can give you is DONT assume anything. Unless you have visually inspected each component and wire, it ain’t right.

I worked on getting any lights to work after I installed aftermarket tail lights on my car. Mine were missing when I got it. So, installed the new tail lights w new bulbs and only the flashers worked. Stepped on the brakes and pop. Blown fuses. Turns out the new tail lights needed dual filament bulbs. Parts store gave me single filament bulbs.

Next, only the L blinker worked. Hit the right and pop. So I chased wires and tested all my switches. Pulled the hazard and headlight switches apart and cleaned them, greased them, and made 100% sure they worked. Replaced the flasher relay and the turn signal switch, but still wouldn’t work. I tested continuity for every junction and FINALLY pulled the right front turn signal indicator housing to discover the wiring was wrong. The last person to work on this car switched the brown and black wires. So the parking/running light worked, but the turn signal was backwards so it just popped fuses.

Go through your manual and study the wiring diagram for your car. You will need a voltmeter and an ohm meter to test voltage and continuity respectively.

Check every wire from the fuse panel all the way to the bulb holder for continuity and then test for voltage. Once you can be sure it has the correct structure then you/we can assess function.
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'78 Super Beetle Convertible
'72 Triumph TR6

[scrivyscriv]

start from scratch, pull all the wiring out except the main harness. If it's not in your wiring diagram, set it aside and don't reinstall it. While you're at it reterminate the spade connectors.. you can get a pro's kit OE style crimper on Amazon and all the terminals from Digikey.

Installing a 'new' different fusebox doesn't really help do anything except make it harder to work on for the next guy, or down the road when you don't have any diagrams to go by when troubleshooting.

Harbor Freight's VOMs suck, spend a few more dollars and get a good name brand. Greenlee makes a decent analog meter for not too much. Craftsman meters are also ok.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/74-up113wiring.jpg
this will also help get you close
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/Beetle_Super_1972_Clymers.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bug_std_super_72.jpg
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[ashman40]

[aero]

Thanks for that, I'll have to try to check resistance now that i bought a second multimeter since my patience waiting for harbor freight to ship items had expired.

I put the battery in, scraped the paint off headlight ground and now they work.

Of course, now engine gets no spark. Engine turns over fine but makes no sign of spark.

#2 fuse still pops when i turn the headlight switch on (as soon as i rock to the first setting)

There is a red wire that is coming out of a wire connector thing under the drivers side of the rear seat. I took apart the fuse holder and the fuse popped out and i have no idea where it went. Stuck my hands down there, used a magnet and nothing.

Tried to upload a picture but the uploader isn't working. But it's a red wire that's jumped off a thicker red/white wire that goes into the drivers side rocker panel. That goes through the fuse holder and then connects to one of the prongs of a silver vw relay under the seat. Not sure what that's for nor what size fuse should be in it.

At least by the time i get this thing running.. I'll know it inside and out.

[Cusser]

Now I get it: whoas is woes !!!
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Bill T.]

Good job tracking down the poor ground on the headlight. Again, I know exactly what you are going through.

What I think you are describing is the fuse holder for the rear defroster. I don’t know what size fuse it is, but I bet it’s something you can deal with after you get it started.

If the engine turns, but there is no spark, check for voltage at your number 11 fuse. The very last fuse on the right hand side. There is a big black wire that is your coil wire. And check the fuse. It is 8amp. They are available in a five pack from O’Rielly auto parts
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'78 Super Beetle Convertible
'72 Triumph TR6

[ashman40]

[baldessariclan]

[aero]

Thanks again, there are whoas and woes. Auto correct used to work so great, and then it's gone downhill.

Electrical is not my strong suit, so it's extra annoying.

That defroster relay has a loose prong (at least one) so I'm guessing it doesnt work anyways. I was able to pick up extra of the exposed style fuses and have a pack of the 8a sizes right now.

Hopefully the weather and work cooperate and i can check into the dist and coil collage tomorrow. I just want it to be road worthy already!

I'll also go through and sand down all the other grounds that i can get to to make sure they are good to go.

I have an exhaust and snow tires getting delivered in the next couple days along with feeler gauges, test light and other goodies.

[aero]

I love dumb mistakes.

Coil to dist wire wasn't connected. Haha. She runs.

Exhaust arrived. It's an empi exhaust. Was hoping that brake cleaner would take the coating off, but no luck. Guess I'll have to sand it before painting it.

[Bill T.]

Again, been there (broken record). My engine ran in the garage. Installed and ran. Started other electrical ‘degremelinization’ and car would not run anymore. Burned up coil wire while trying to rewire fuel pump (78 w electric fuel pump)

Keep going. You’re doing great.

I just bought an EMPI exhaust to replace badly leaking stock unit. Plan on scuffing it up w green Scotch pad, Wash it w hose and ye old kitchen dish soap. Then coat w most expensive, highest quality hi-temp paint. I’ve used some Home Depot Rustoleum for engine tin (500 degree). I’ll use the 2000 degree paint from Depot or local auto parts store. I’ve tried high tech, ceramic, expensive stuff in my paint gun w poor results. Rattle can stuff is fine by me. Just treat like sunscreen; apply liberally and redcoat often
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'78 Super Beetle Convertible
'72 Triumph TR6

[aero]

[aero]

Do have a picture from a few days ago when she first ran after pulling the engine and putting it back in.

[aero]

I was able to track down the short to one of the front blinkers or running lights. Disconnecting the wires from them stops the fuse from blowing.

Rear running lights work, but still no brake lights.

Got new tires installed, Yakima roof rack feet arrived, new door handles and built a rear seat delete panel. New exhaust on as well and she sounds much better.

Hopefully I'll get time Sunday to try and diagnose the missing brake lights. Does the bug have to be running for them to work?

[jinx758]

On my '71 only the headlights work without key on. It is mostly stock German wiring except for a few end pieces.

You'll need the key "on" or in run position. Please disconnect the + ignition wire on your coil to prevent the points from burning & staying closed. Reconnect when done ... that has stumped me twice when it wouldn't start.

Sorry for stating the obvious ... good luck.

jinx
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" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference

You can't push a rope


VALVES (cold)
POINTS
TIMING
CARB (fully warmed engine)

SCRAPE ALL GROUNDS

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[Bill T.]

Key will need to be in the on position for the brake lights to work. That was good advice about pulling the coil wire if you’re going to do a bunch of electrical stuff.

For the brake lights, check to see if you’re getting power to the back. Remember, you have to have good fuses. I’ve been frustrated by fuses that visually look ok, but fail continuity.

So, start at the tail light bulbs. Check for continuity. Then have a friend step on the brake w the key on. Anything. Super weak but at least a tiny flicker says bad ground at the bulb holder. If nothing at all, remove the bulb, have an assistant step on the brake w key on while you check for voltage. If nothing, then I would suspect the brake light switches.

My brake lights also did not work. But I also had to put in aftermarket bulb holders ( cheap POS) since mine were missing. I had to pull my master cylinder (it was leaking anyway) and pull the switches.

There is a switch plate on the inside of the switch. It moves up and down Hen you hit the brakes. Mines were both stuck/gummed up from sitting. Look at the thing and you will see a hole in the end. Use a scratch awl and push it in to see if you can move the switch plate. If so, then check for continuity. If you can’t move the switch, drop the whole thing in acetone for 10 minutes, spray inside w wd40, and check again. If interior switch moves but no continuity then it’s toast.

I have a set of switches ( brand new 2 pole). Send me PM if u need. I’m in AZ so shipping would be quick
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'78 Super Beetle Convertible
'72 Triumph TR6

[aero]

I was hoping it was just the fact that I did not have the ignition on or running, but nope. Did not get to check it out but did take it out in the neighborhood for a better test run.

Good news was it ran pretty well. Bad news was the oil leak it had when I got it isnt fixed.

It is a built motor, it appears the builder over torqued the oil cooler and made a hairline crack in the rearmost corner. They epoxied it and it held for 45k. It was already leaking when I got it.. tore it down to find the leak and found that. I chipped it off, sanded it down and applied some more which held for a few times of letting it run for a while. But, it has a slow leak again from that area. I cant see if its the gaskets or that crack.

So I may try it again, with more cleaning and possibly inside the oil channel. It is built, so I cant swap the internals over to a new block without spending a bunch of money. I do have a stock complete engine that came out of it when this one went in, but this one has double the hp.

But at least she looks pretty.