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damarble Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2018 Posts: 12 Location: Spokane
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Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2018 2:03 pm Post subject: Bradley GT2 |
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Hello everyone, I just acquired a GT2 body and plan to build it up.
This is probably where I'll lose most of you, but I don't intend to use any VW parts. At this time you're asking, why is he on a VW site?
Well, the reason I don't want anything VW is because I don't know VW, I know Ford, so Ford based it shall be. What brings me here is I would rather build a chassis front scratch that will better fit my components.
From what I can tell the VW pan gets most of it's strength from the backbone down the middle? I'm going to do some perusing here, but are there any peculiarities I need to be aware of when designing this chassis?
TIA |
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Pajero Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2018 Posts: 38 Location: Kenmore, Washington
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Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2018 5:34 pm Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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VW's are cake. I knew nothing about them before I bought my Manxter, and I picked up a lot pretty easily. 😉 |
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damarble Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2018 Posts: 12 Location: Spokane
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Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2018 6:28 pm Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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Easy or not, I have stacks of Ford stuff piled up everywhere. It just makes more sense to me. |
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Wolfgangdieter Samba Member
Joined: June 25, 2008 Posts: 1958 Location: FL Panhandle
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Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2018 8:36 pm Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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Ah Pinto power or Mustang II? I can't picture a whole lot else that would work. Just aren't that many front wheel drive Bradly GT2. You're going to invest a whole lot of cash to go FORD tht you won't ever see back (ha, not that any kit car returns a positive cash flow). _________________ CMC '57 Porsche Speedster Replica and Dolphin boat tailed full pan VW MOD-T Street Buggy |
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damarble Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2018 Posts: 12 Location: Spokane
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Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2018 10:23 pm Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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There will be some Mustang 2 involved, in the front suspension. The power with be a Duratec 3.0L mated to a Contour SVT 5 speed. All aluminum and good for around 200hp/200tq at the rear wheels. |
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jspbtown Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 5157
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 7:23 am Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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My best advice is to only use the money you have no other use for.
Many many people have attempted to make the GT2 into something its not. The vast majority have failed. The dimensions do not allow much room for the required cooling and seating components.
It will be a ton of fiberglass work and engineering and you will end up with something that really doesn't drive that great, is unbalanced, and a money pit.
Like I said....enjoy the exercise, just don't sink much into it. |
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damarble Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2018 Posts: 12 Location: Spokane
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 8:16 am Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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That's good advice, and partly why I want to use parts on hand. Ditto for fabricating a chassis, a little steel is relatively cheap vs finding a donor bug, and can be purpose built.
I believe I can get the balance better than any VW based version, as all the engine and trans weight is in front of the axle centerline. The Duratec is compact and will leave plenty of room for seating.
It doesn't have a windshield, which makes it worthless, so I don't feel bad about doing some hacking. I will need to fit a 280ZX windshield as that looks like the only viable option currently.
I have a tube bender, so I'm going back and forth on how I want to build the frame. I think 2x2 box for the perimeter and the backbone in tube, with it extending and flaring out at either end to wrap around the motor and front suspension cross member. My die is 1.75" which may be a little overkill? |
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MrGoodtunes Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2012 Posts: 852 Location: South Florida
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 9:23 am Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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damarble wrote: |
... The Duratec is compact ... |
True. But it's still pretty tall, while the front of a Bradley is quite low. So will it stick out of the hood, or could you go mid engine? Also, what will you do with all the empty space in the rear? Hmm, a well padded bed might be nice. |
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didget69 Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2004 Posts: 4927 Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 9:39 am Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=440534
bryan _________________ I never found the need to impress people with any mechanic certifications, trophies or track wins... unless it was for Mom to post on the refrigerator door. |
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damarble Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2018 Posts: 12 Location: Spokane
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 1:01 pm Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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MrGoodtunes wrote: |
damarble wrote: |
... The Duratec is compact ... |
True. But it's still pretty tall, while the front of a Bradley is quite low. So will it stick out of the hood, or could you go mid engine? Also, what will you do with all the empty space in the rear? Hmm, a well padded bed might be nice. |
Oh yuck, fwd was never on the table. Mid engine it is.
I was putting this drive train in a sand rail until the GT2 popped up, so I'd already worked out the conversion for rear use.
I should end up with both a trunk and a frunk all said and done lol, just no rear seat. |
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damarble Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2018 Posts: 12 Location: Spokane
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 1:03 pm Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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Thanks, that's just the kind of info I'm after. It doesn't seem like these frames have to be built all that heavy. |
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jspbtown Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 5157
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 3:18 pm Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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Quote: |
I should end up with both a trunk and a frunk all said and done lol, just no rear seat. |
There was never a rear seat so that's good. You will likely have to cut out almost all of the rear section and build and entire new "firewall" between the seating area and the engine bay.
You will also need to find space for the fuel system and the cooling system. A new water pump design might also be needed to get the coolant from the front to the back. Also the entire front might need to be redesigned to get enough airflow to the radiators and out of the front end area.
The fuel system will also be a challenge to shoe in there.
Thin about the braking system as well since you might need power assist with the added HP and maybe even power steering of some sort up front due to the added weight.
Consideration to the custom exhaust will also need to be done. |
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sector Samba Member
Joined: March 11, 2015 Posts: 2
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 4:05 pm Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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Go with the custom chassis, it will give you complete flexibility in your build and you don't have to waist your time fixing old rusty chassis. I've started with 73 VW chassis only to find out after dropping the body on it, that it was all out of whack due to previous accident. Chassis had no rust and looked excellent from that perspective but rear torsion tube on the driver's side was bent by almost an inch, causing rear wheel to rub on the body. So I scrapped it and began building a tubular chassis (only $300 in metal cost), and never looked back. I am using a coilover IFS, complete rear suspension from low milage Porsche 944 turbo (also with koni coilovers) and WRX engine with reversed pinion 5 speed transmission. My setup will put down about 300hp which should be plenty for a 1800 lbs fiberglass kit car. |
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damarble Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2018 Posts: 12 Location: Spokane
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Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 5:55 pm Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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sector wrote: |
Go with the custom chassis, it will give you complete flexibility in your build and you don't have to waist your time fixing old rusty chassis. I've started with 73 VW chassis only to find out after dropping the body on it, that it was all out of whack due to previous accident. Chassis had no rust and looked excellent from that perspective but rear torsion tube on the driver's side was bent by almost an inch, causing rear wheel to rub on the body. So I scrapped it and began building a tubular chassis (only $300 in metal cost), and never looked back. I am using a coilover IFS, complete rear suspension from low milage Porsche 944 turbo (also with koni coilovers) and WRX engine with reversed pinion 5 speed transmission. My setup will put down about 300hp which should be plenty for a 1800 lbs fiberglass kit car. |
Thanks for the input. That will be a nice setup for you. I should be around the same weight but at 200hp to start. This powertrain was used in the Noble supercar and modified to make 400hp. I'll be happy to meet in the middle. But not until it's driving. |
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damarble Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2018 Posts: 12 Location: Spokane
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Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 6:07 pm Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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jspbtown wrote: |
Quote: |
I should end up with both a trunk and a frunk all said and done lol, just no rear seat. |
There was never a rear seat so that's good. You will likely have to cut out almost all of the rear section and build and entire new "firewall" between the seating area and the engine bay.
You will also need to find space for the fuel system and the cooling system. A new water pump design might also be needed to get the coolant from the front to the back. Also the entire front might need to be redesigned to get enough airflow to the radiators and out of the front end area.
The fuel system will also be a challenge to shoe in there.
Thin about the braking system as well since you might need power assist with the added HP and maybe even power steering of some sort up front due to the added weight.
Consideration to the custom exhaust will also need to be done. |
Thanks for the tips. The widest part of my engine sits 20" ahead of the axle centerline. This puts it roughly in the package shelf area but no further than the existing 'glass. Removing the entire shelf and creating a new firewall will be simplest.
There is almost nothing behind the axle centerline, so I'll actual have a huge void behind the motor of 30-34" or so. This gives me a lot of room for exhaust and radiator. Possibly a top draw, rear vent for the radiator.
I'm going to try to use the donor car's fuel tank first, it is a 10 gallon plastic job and should be able to be crammed somewhere up front. If not, a 8-10 gallon square aluminum fuel cell is compact and will fit somewhere. |
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damarble Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2018 Posts: 12 Location: Spokane
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Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 6:08 pm Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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In other news, I made some title progress. It was titled in 99 as a "1983 special construction" in Idaho. I have the last known address and will see if the guy is still around, but after nearly 20 years chances aren't good. Still, I feel better about that than starting from scratch. |
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didget69 Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2004 Posts: 4927 Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2018 8:58 am Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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damarble wrote: |
Thanks, that's just the kind of info I'm after. It doesn't seem like these frames have to be built all that heavy. |
The chassis does need to be built heavier for street use. Keep in mind things like potholes, road heaves, suspension loading on the frame, etc.
I don't know that the referenced middie buggy ever got completed - OP hasn't been on the Samba in more than 2 years.
bryan _________________ I never found the need to impress people with any mechanic certifications, trophies or track wins... unless it was for Mom to post on the refrigerator door. |
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damarble Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2018 Posts: 12 Location: Spokane
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Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2018 6:46 pm Post subject: Re: Bradley GT2 |
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didget69 wrote: |
damarble wrote: |
Thanks, that's just the kind of info I'm after. It doesn't seem like these frames have to be built all that heavy. |
The chassis does need to be built heavier for street use. Keep in mind things like potholes, road heaves, suspension loading on the frame, etc.
I don't know that the referenced middie buggy ever got completed - OP hasn't been on the Samba in more than 2 years.
bryan |
I'm all in on a cage now so that should increase stiffness considerably. My die is 1.75" but I'm debating picking up a 1.5" die, not sure yet which is more appropriate.
I'm an effort to improve the rear end looks, I think I came up with an idea, pulling cues from the C6 corvette.
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