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WildIdea Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2016 Posts: 927 Location: Black Hills, South Dakota
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Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2018 8:32 am Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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Looks like your ready to roll up the sleeves and get after it. Love seeing this. But I found that you’ll need the sleeves for protection sticking your arms all up in a bus, lol. Congrats, keep the photos and updates coming. |
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danfromsyr Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004 Posts: 15129 Location: Syracuse, NY
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Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 8:14 am Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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am I the only one wondering how the F you add oil to the motor?
and be VERY CAREFUL with that aux battery relay cable, the live terminal clamp can touch the sheetmetal and short out..
_________________
Abscate wrote: |
These are the reasons we have words like “wanker” |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 9:25 am Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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Is that breather hose connected to the fuel tank vent? _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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M0nk3y Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2018 Posts: 16 Location: CA
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Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 8:15 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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My compression tests resulted in what seems to 2 bad cylinders number 1 and 2. 1 was 85, 2 was 62, 3 was 135, 4 was 125. I have to go buy an engine stand tomorrow so I can lift the engine up and take it apart. I almost got the fuel tank out too but the bracket on the right side refused to come off and I could not cut it cause I had fuel still draining so Il try and get it out tomorrow.
The oil filler turns so that's how they put oil in it before.
And no that's not the oil breather going to the fuel breather, they added a breather with a filter on it for the oil.
Any suggestions or insight to anything you guys see is appreciated!
And yes I will be moving the fuel filter to outside the engine bay.
I am seriously thinking of redoing all the wires cause that will drive me insane and also I would like to add caps and make sure all the wires are safe. Non of this 3 wires connected together to make one wire stuff.
Spark Plugs
1
2
3
4
Electrical annoyance
Maybe thats why my fuel gauge does not work....
and the rest of my progress for today
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Abscate Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014 Posts: 22568 Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2018 5:06 am Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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Yeah that wiring was done by a toddler who tools should be thrown into a lake
The good news is when you see this you know a do-over is needed. _________________ .ssS! |
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orangebug60guy Twin #1
Joined: June 28, 2003 Posts: 1516 Location: South Hadley Mass
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Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2018 5:40 am Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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M0nk3y wrote: |
Adding to the list!
Dirty pics first
CLEAN (now I can find the start of the leak!)
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I always wonder how people manage to dent those push rod tubes? I also haven't heard great things about the spring loaded push rod tubes. I would go with stock tubes and seals. |
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Abscate Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014 Posts: 22568 Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2018 6:42 am Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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Prying against them to get the chinesium J tubes to fit _________________ .ssS! |
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rkeller Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2007 Posts: 169 Location: Wake Forest, NC
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Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2018 7:26 am Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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Your post showing the wires running through the body panel sitting on bare metal was concerning. I have an assortment of rubber grommets and would put one in before I take it out for a drive. If the wires cannot be disconnected at this time and threaded through the grommet then you can always cut the grommet on the radius and push the wires through the cut and stuff the grommet in with the split at the top. _________________ 71 single cab, 67 deluxe bug (to daughter), 67 custom ragtop bug (sold to pay for restoration), 71 super (1st car, long gone) |
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M0nk3y Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2018 Posts: 16 Location: CA
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Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2018 3:02 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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Good catch! I will be sure to add those to the list! |
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Hikelite Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012 Posts: 557 Location: Colville, WA
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Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 6:31 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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Wow. Were there any wires back there not spliced together?
Just think how great it's gonna be when you fix it the RIGHT way. _________________ ~Kevin
My 1968 Campmobile |
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wcfvw69 Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004 Posts: 13382 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 8:44 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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FYI- You have a mismatch with the distributor and carb. You have a 30 series carb or H30/31 with a SVDA distributor. Those 30 series carbs only provide 80mm hg of vacuum. The vacuum canister on that SVDA requires 200MM hg to fully pull the arm and advance the timing.
Basically, that distributor was meant to be matched to a larger 34-3 carb on a dual port engine.
Post the numbers off the distributor. _________________ Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
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M0nk3y Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2018 Posts: 16 Location: CA
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Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 9:25 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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wcfvw69 Eyes like a hawk! Thanks for pointing this out. How do you learn how to match them correctly? Is there issues that can arise if not taken care of?
1 235 522 056 and it also has a 983 on the side.
from what I found with those numbers its a "Type 1 1974-1979 distributor"
Today I had some energy to take the engine tins off and a few extras. I have an engine stand but I just purchased the yolk(will take a week to get here). So I did what I felt I could while its sitting on a skateboard. It is still full of oil so I did not wanna take it fully apart just yet. It looks in a little bit of rough shape but (for looks) most of it should be able to come out with some scrubbing, cleaning, and maybe some more scrubbing. The Head bolts on 1/2 were SUPER loose. I barley put the ratchet on and applied light pressure and it came loose. The one on the far right was so loose it came off with the weight of just the ratchet. Maybe that's the cause of my oil leak. Would that make me have low compression? The oil cooler might need to be changed... Just kidding I WILL change it.
1/2
3/4
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wcfvw69 Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004 Posts: 13382 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 5:07 am Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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You have a 043905205C distributor with a SVDA vacuum can mounted on it. When it is was delivered new, it had a DVDA vacuum can on it.
If you're keeping that engine single port, I'd ditch that EMPI (Chinese) carb, get a restored German Solex PICT30-3 carb and a matching BOSCH SVA distributor like a 113905205T. That was the combo a single port engine in a 1970 bus came with. _________________ Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
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Ry-dog Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2003 Posts: 450 Location: Lunenburg, MA
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 6:49 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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If you can do it, I'd recommend upgrading to a doghouse oil cooler adapter and oil cooler along with a doghouse fan shroud. Find used german tin for the shroud. _________________ '70 Westy
'14 Jeep Grand Cherokee EcoDiesel |
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M0nk3y Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2018 Posts: 16 Location: CA
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 9:47 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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Is this fixable? I have seen a few posts about the non-tube version getting rewired, but nothing about the internals of this tube type getting rewired and the metal connectors being put back together.
Fuel Tank- needs the acid washdown but besides that looks pretty good. I am assuming since the float is from 1969 that this fuel tank is also original.
OIL (not pretty) The crud is not metallic(i think), I put a magnet up to it and it did not stick. They crumble when I put some force on them. I tried to clean them up to see what it was but they stay black. Any ideas what it could be? Should I be looking somewhere in the engine specifically to see if there is more damage?
I will try and take the cylinders apart tomorrow and see how those look. It should be the time of year where I have more time to work on this, but it looks like I wont have as much down time as I was hoping for to work on this. So it might take a few weeks to get it torn down to where i feel comfortable to put it back in. |
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M0nk3y Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2018 Posts: 16 Location: CA
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Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 9:09 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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Today I pulled 1/2 cylinder head off. I found one pushrod on #2 was bent. The bolts holding the cylinder head on were all pretty loose . Got the pushrod tubes out and set aside and was about to take the jugs off. But they are on there. I cant seem to get them to move. I dont wanna break the fins, so il find some wd40 or penetrating oils tomorrow. the insides are not too bad looking (at least i think) they def need to be cleaned up. there is one shiny spot on #1 i think that i need to figure out. Hopefully i can get the jugs off soon so i can inspect the rings and start to figure out what parts need to be on order.
Did someone try to grind or cut something here???
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M0nk3y Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2018 Posts: 16 Location: CA
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Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 9:30 am Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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anyone have some input on the fuel level sensor or the condition of the pistons and valves? This is the deepest I have ever taken apart an engine and I would appreciate any input and what I should be looking for. To me it looks like the pistons and valves could use a good clean up but there is the orange/shiny part on #1 that worries me. But other than that they look in good shape to me. I also Can't get the jugs off, I chipped a small fin off at the base already so I don't wanna break anymore. Anyone have some tricks on how to get them off? |
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HarryFD Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2012 Posts: 746 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 11:41 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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M0nk3y wrote: |
anyone have some input on the fuel level sensor or the condition of the pistons and valves? This is the deepest I have ever taken apart an engine and I would appreciate any input and what I should be looking for. To me it looks like the pistons and valves could use a good clean up but there is the orange/shiny part on #1 that worries me. But other than that they look in good shape to me. I also Can't get the jugs off, I chipped a small fin off at the base already so I don't wanna break anymore. Anyone have some tricks on how to get them off? |
I can't help you with the motor. For the sender, TCash posted this:
Fuel Gauge and Sender early bay t2a 1968-72 FAQ
this website may be helpful: www.hallvw.clara.net/fuelsend.htm _________________ 1970 Deluxe Sunroof Bay Brilliant Blue/Cloud White
1973.5 911 Targa
2009 MB C300 |
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HarryFD Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2012 Posts: 746 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 11:41 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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M0nk3y wrote: |
anyone have some input on the fuel level sensor or the condition of the pistons and valves? This is the deepest I have ever taken apart an engine and I would appreciate any input and what I should be looking for. To me it looks like the pistons and valves could use a good clean up but there is the orange/shiny part on #1 that worries me. But other than that they look in good shape to me. I also Can't get the jugs off, I chipped a small fin off at the base already so I don't wanna break anymore. Anyone have some tricks on how to get them off? |
I can't help you with the motor. For the sender, TCash posted this:
Fuel Gauge and Sender early bay t2a 1968-72 FAQ
this website may be helpful: www.hallvw.clara.net/fuelsend.htm _________________ 1970 Deluxe Sunroof Bay Brilliant Blue/Cloud White
1973.5 911 Targa
2009 MB C300 |
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Abscate Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014 Posts: 22568 Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 4:58 am Post subject: Re: 1970 hightop Bus. Let the work begin! |
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Good pictures
You dodged a bullet with this motor. Usually when the head lots get loose, hot gases machine the heads to junk. Those look ok.
There is a lot of coke on that motor though. Someone did not believe in oil changes. If you want a 3 year plus runner, I would tear down and wash it all out. _________________ .ssS! |
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