| Author |
Message |
steve vw
Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2007
Posts: 11
Location: Homer Alaska
|
 Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 12:44 pm Post subject: Vanagon 1985 1.9 |
 |
|
It's been a couple of months but I'm now back working on my 85 Vanagon. Thank you for your advice regarding the auxiliary air valve. As you suggested, I removed the valve and put it in the freezer and it showed opened, then I heated it up and it closed somewhat but not completly...it seemed like a slow process between opening and closing. And then I noticed that it had two holes to be bolted to somewhere I'm not certain because underneath the valve there was nothing to bolt it to...it was just held in place by the hoses. Then I'm wondering how it heats up because it's not bolted to a heat source, it's placed right above the two metal tubes from the air intake distributor. I did spray carburetor cleaner a couple of times inside and sloshed it around. I'm wondering if it would hurt to spray WD-40 in it just to lubricate. I'm uncertain whether or not to buy a new one. Sure would appreciate any advice you can give me.
Regards, Steve VW |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 33989
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
|
| Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 2:04 pm Post subject: Re: Vanagon 1985 1.9 |
|
|
I don't know the background of your issue (is there an older thread?), but those AARs usually have an electrical connector, and it gets hot by resistance internally.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21507
Location: Oklahoma City
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 11:07 am Post subject: Re: Vanagon 1985 1.9 |
|
|
| steve vw wrote: |
It's been a couple of months but I'm now back working on my 85 Vanagon. Thank you for your advice regarding the auxiliary air valve. As you suggested, I removed the valve and put it in the freezer and it showed opened, then I heated it up and it closed somewhat but not completly...it seemed like a slow process between opening and closing. And then I noticed that it had two holes to be bolted to somewhere I'm not certain because underneath the valve there was nothing to bolt it to...it was just held in place by the hoses. Then I'm wondering how it heats up because it's not bolted to a heat source, it's placed right above the two metal tubes from the air intake distributor. I did spray carburetor cleaner a couple of times inside and sloshed it around. I'm wondering if it would hurt to spray WD-40 in it just to lubricate. I'm uncertain whether or not to buy a new one. Sure would appreciate any advice you can give me.
Regards, Steve VW |
What KTPhil noted is correct.
Notice in his picture that on the back end on the left there is a two pin plug. This plugs into positive and negative. It has an internal heating element.
At room temp...it will ALWAYS be open slightly. Once you start the engine....which means electricity is applied to the internal heater coil...the disc valve inside will close off the air passage all the way (on most models)....and on some models...a very few... there is a designed amount of orifice left open when the valve is fully closed. The closing time can take from as fast as about 3 minutes up to about 10. The average being between 5 and 8 minutes.
Some of these have a small 3mm screw with a locknut usually sealed with yellow paint...used to adjust the maximum opening when the AAR is closed. In this way it can be used on several models of car.
The "type" shown in KTPhils picture is a fairly general shape...used on literally hundreds of vehicles of almost every European and Japanese make from mid 70's through the late 90s'.....and there are a great many part numbers. These went on air and water cooled cars.
There are many that are so close together in function that you can use a variety of them.
I sold off about 50 NOS AARS last year.
Carefully test and clean your AAR. In about 90% of the time ...if the heater element works...it can be made to function just fine. This is important because anymore....you will rarely be able to just "buy a new one"...and certainly not for cheap. Be prepared to spend an easy $100+....so take care of what you have and buy a spare.
For example....while this one is listed for L-jet injected bus and type 1...while the calibration may be a little different than yours...it will work in a pinch. It may warm up a little slower or faster than perfect...but is better than nothing.
Its $159 new...and thats a fair price.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Auxiliary-Air-Valve-0-280-140-101-p/0-280-140-101.htm
Ray |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Busdepot
Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2004
Posts: 1309
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 12:28 pm Post subject: Re: Vanagon 1985 1.9 |
|
|
Actually if you look closely at that page it says "item unavailable, no ETA." However we have them in stock for a little cheaper ($152 with your Samba discount): http://www.busdepot.com/049133453-42
_________________
- Ron Salmon
The Bus Depot
www.busdepot.com |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21507
Location: Oklahoma City
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 1:28 pm Post subject: Re: Vanagon 1985 1.9 |
|
|
| Busdepot wrote: |
Actually if you look closely at that page it says "item unavailable, no ETA." However we have them in stock for a little cheaper ($152 with your Samba discount): http://www.busdepot.com/049133453-42 |
Yep...I figured as much. These parts come and go in availability. Many...if not most...are no longer manufactured. Bosch classic may have some. I just have not checked.
The L-jet and digifant are not so picky in exactly which one is used as long as it flows enough when open and closes to the right point. Its just a time factor.
Some of the middle 80's, VW, Saab and Mercedes with CIS or motronic variations are very sensitive and need the right functioning part.
I tell people not to quibble over price on these. Get one if you need it. Ray |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jlrftype7
Samba Member
Joined: July 24, 2018
Posts: 3574
Location: Chicago
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 7:29 pm Post subject: Re: Vanagon 1985 1.9 |
|
|
| raygreenwood wrote: |
| Busdepot wrote: |
Actually if you look closely at that page it says "item unavailable, no ETA." However we have them in stock for a little cheaper ($152 with your Samba discount): http://www.busdepot.com/049133453-42 |
Yep...I figured as much. These parts come and go in availability. Many...if not most...are no longer manufactured. Bosch classic may have some. I just have not checked.
The L-jet and digifant are not so picky in exactly which one is used as long as it flows enough when open and closes to the right point. Its just a time factor.
Some of the middle 80's, VW, Saab and Mercedes with CIS or motronic variations are very sensitive and need the right functioning part.
I tell people not to quibble over price on these. Get one if you need it. Ray |
Exactly Ray, I bought a new one that is listed for an early 80’s BMW 320i. Application ..... 4 cyl, came in both Automatic and Manual Transmissions back in the day as it were( which you already know all too well)  . I’ll adjust the little 8mm nut if needed to tweak the valve if my WBX needs are different... 
I carefully glass-beaded my original Valve , with caps over the openings, it goes in my storage of parts if needed in the future. They were once so common of a part, almost hard to believe they’re getting rare now.... 
_________________
'68 Westy- my first VW and vehicle/Bus- long gone.- sold it to a traveling Swiss couple....
'67 Type 3 Fastback, my 2nd car- gone
'69 Semi-Auto Stick Shift Beetle-gone
2017 MINI Coopers, our current DDs
‘84 Tin Top - Hilga....Auto |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jlrftype7
Samba Member
Joined: July 24, 2018
Posts: 3574
Location: Chicago
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 7:34 pm Post subject: Re: Vanagon 1985 1.9 |
|
|
| steve vw wrote: |
It's been a couple of months but I'm now back working on my 85 Vanagon. Thank you for your advice regarding the auxiliary air valve. As you suggested, I removed the valve and put it in the freezer and it showed opened, then I heated it up and it closed somewhat but not completly...it seemed like a slow process between opening and closing. And then I noticed that it had two holes to be bolted to somewhere I'm not certain because underneath the valve there was nothing to bolt it to...it was just held in place by the hoses. Then I'm wondering how it heats up because it's not bolted to a heat source, it's placed right above the two metal tubes from the air intake distributor. I did spray carburetor cleaner a couple of times inside and sloshed it around. I'm wondering if it would hurt to spray WD-40 in it just to lubricate. I'm uncertain whether or not to buy a new one. Sure would appreciate any advice you can give me.
Regards, Steve VW |
. There really should be 2 Six Mm bolts holding your valve to the engine under the mess of hoses and plumbing around it. As long as the bolts aren’t broken in the engine block, you should see 2 threaded holes near where the aux valve sits.
_________________
'68 Westy- my first VW and vehicle/Bus- long gone.- sold it to a traveling Swiss couple....
'67 Type 3 Fastback, my 2nd car- gone
'69 Semi-Auto Stick Shift Beetle-gone
2017 MINI Coopers, our current DDs
‘84 Tin Top - Hilga....Auto |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Buggeee
Samba Member
Joined: December 22, 2016
Posts: 4406
Location: Stuck in Ohio
|
| Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 5:03 am Post subject: Re: Vanagon 1985 1.9 |
|
|
| KTPhil wrote: |
| I don't know the background of your issue (is there an older thread?)... |
Just so we have it in one place here are the symptoms that SteveVW described in another thread.
| steve vw wrote: |
I would like to get some advice. I just replaced the Temp II censor but the van runs rough when the engine is cold when I start it, however, once the engine is hot it runs just fine. Then when I turn it off and it sits for a while, it just barely starts... Thank you in advance.
Steve vw |
And here is the thought by Hdener that led to this thread here.
| hdenter wrote: |
... your poor cold start and idle performance may be due to your aux air valve being gummed up or stuck in the closed position. Dig it out from under the intake runners on the right side and give it a good cleaning with carb cleaner. To test it, place it in the frig for a while until it is nice and cold. When you look through it, there should be a hole that air can pass through. Then warm it up with a blow dryer or something until it is about 80deg. Now when you look through it should be blocked off. The hole lets in a little extra air to go along with the richer fuel supply when the engine is cold. Once the element or engine heat warms it up, the hole closes.
Conversely, if the car starts up great when cold but then starts to have a surging idle as it warms up like it has a vacuum leak, that indicates that the aux air valve is stuck open.
Hans |
I am learning a lot about the mysteries of fuel injection and the symptoms that match the strange looking parts from our shared experience.
Viva La Samba!
_________________
1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764
| SnowDaySyncro wrote: |
| Every setback is an opportunity to learn stuff and to buy new tools. |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Nuthin2It
Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Marietta, GA
|
| Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 12:18 pm Post subject: Re: Vanagon 1985 1.9 |
|
|
I tested the auxiliary air regulator on my 1.9L by hooking it up to a jump starter battery and looking through it. You can see the gate close as the regulator warms up.
_________________
1985 Westfalia 15 degree EA288 Boxeer |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Buggeee
Samba Member
Joined: December 22, 2016
Posts: 4406
Location: Stuck in Ohio
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Nuthin2It
Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Marietta, GA
|
| Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 12:53 pm Post subject: Re: Vanagon 1985 1.9 |
|
|
You need to electrically test the heater in the auxiliary air regulator to make sure it is functioning properly. The regulator is not designed to function from engine temperature.
Read this classic reply by tencentlife describing in clear language exactly how the auxiliary air regulator works:
Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 11:19 am
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=347362
_________________
1985 Westfalia 15 degree EA288 Boxeer |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
