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Thompson2
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Joined: June 06, 2018
Posts: 659
Location: Portland, OR
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 Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 9:05 pm Post subject: Headlight switch questions |
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The OG headlight switch in my ‘63 was replaced at some point for unknown reasons but was included with the bus when I picked it up. The replacement isn’t the right style (has the brass nut on the nose and no bracket) and seems to be missing the #57 connection (it’s there but it looks like no spade was ever attached) for the front marker lights. From what I can tell, it’s for a Beetle (don’t know what year)
So my question - it looks like whoever replaced the switch though the bracket was removable and went at the front trim piece with some pliers. They managed to loosen the bracket so that now the switch body turns a little inside the bracket. Is it supposed to move or did they honk it up when they manhandled it?
If that’s normal, I’ll try to rebuild it and see if I can put it back into service. If not, more replacement parts are called for. Are the repro switches any good or should I get an OG and rebuild it? |
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BarryL 
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Joined: November 01, 2004
Posts: 14257
Location: Casa de Oro, California
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| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 11:07 am Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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| If you're talking about the original one, no the bracket is not supposed to be loose from the housing. I don't know from experience but I've heard that the Wolfsburg West ones are decent. Hazetguy is a place to start for a real one. |
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Bruce Amacker
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Joined: December 26, 2007
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Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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Thompson2
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Joined: June 06, 2018
Posts: 659
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 12:00 pm Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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| BarryL wrote: |
| If you're talking about the original one, no the bracket is not supposed to be loose from the housing. I don't know from experience but I've heard that the Wolfsburg West ones are decent. Hazetguy is a place to start for a real one. |
I'll hit him up for a switch and a 6v E-flasher relay since mine is only firing 3 of the 4 corners... lol
Thanks! |
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24732
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 6:35 pm Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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You probably could fix and repair the HL switch you have.
If the signals are flashing on three of the four, wiring is the problem.
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
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Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Thompson2
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Joined: June 06, 2018
Posts: 659
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 8:25 pm Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| You probably could fix and repair the HL switch you have. |
If not for the mangle-ation, I would definitely do that (and I plan to do that with any OG switch I pick up). The problem I don't think I can fix, although I haven't torn into it yet, is the switch (orange arrow) rotating relative to the bracket (yellow arrow). That isn't supposed to happen. Not sure it can be remedied without some non-optimal repair. Don't want to have to deal with it twice. I've read through your rebuild and I'll be putting that to the test when I get a replacement. 
If I can fix that, I can probably polish out the damage on the "nose"
| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| If the signals are flashing on three of the four, wiring is the problem. |
I'd agree except that it's the front right which has it's own connection on the relay. The turn signal works and it's pretty much a solid wire all the way along. Just one crimped connection that looks okay.. I did try cleaning up the connections on the relay but it didn't get better. I'll tear the relay apart when I get a replacement and I'm betting I'll find that the contact for that corner is cruddy. I'd tear it apart now, but I don't like having everything dangling.. too likely I'll get stuff reconnected wrong.  |
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24732
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 9:04 pm Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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If you put up a "WTB" ad, someone has a fried HL switch with that outer part in mint used condition....
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Thompson2
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Joined: June 06, 2018
Posts: 659
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 10:24 pm Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| If you put up a "WTB" ad, someone has a fried HL switch with that outer part in mint used condition.... |
If I knew what had happened to the OG one I've got, I'd go that route for sure. I'll probably tear this one down to see if I can revive it... but I'd like to have a fully functional unit first... I'm really trying to close out each piece before moving to the next. If I don't, it'll swamp me in no time flat... |
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Thompson2
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Joined: June 06, 2018
Posts: 659
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 4:19 pm Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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So much for waiting. Must have been the wine, but I decided to tear this apart last night. Seems like a reasonable thing to do at midnight, right?
I found out that the “nose” is crimped / flared into the metal housing to hold the mounting bracket in place. So I used a tapered body punch and a tiny 48oz ball peen hammer to persuade it to do its job again.
If you take a close look at the center of the assembly, you can see the ring that’s part of the “nose”.
A bit of filing and some sandpaper and it looked presentable again. I didn’t have 3m screws to put it back together so I used 1/8” pop rivets. They seem like they’ll work just fine.
I’m confused as to why it was ever pulled in the first place. The guts looked almost pristine. Some very minor wear. No evidence of sparking or overheating... wire wheel on a Dremel and a good coat of dielectric grease and it’s back in service.
Thanks E&B for the prodding. Hopefully I’ll be able to buy you a beer and shake your hand one day. |
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24732
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 4:38 pm Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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Glad to help! Looks real nice!
Wish though you had done the soldering and tested with a multimeter. That is a must for nice bright headlights.
See you at one of the local VW meets!
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Thompson2
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Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 6:18 pm Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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Oh yeah... soldering happened. There was wine involved but not quite *that* much.
I failed to get pics of that but I hit it inside and out. Today I realized that I could have soldered all the way around each contact on the inside. I covered about half the pad but certainly could have gone completely around them all. The outside was a pain because of the tabs but I got a bit on each one.
And it all made a visible difference in thr lights. They’re still 6v incandescent so they’re not going to be blinding anyone but it’s better.
Thanks again. |
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
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Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 6:28 pm Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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We are running 6 volt 55/60 H4 bulbs in the 1963 SC. Have gotten asked how we got our old truck to have such bright headlights!
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Thompson2
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Joined: June 06, 2018
Posts: 659
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 10:09 pm Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| We are running 6 volt 55/60 H4 bulbs in the 1963 SC. Have gotten asked how we got our old truck to have such bright headlights! |
You're running those through the switch or did you put in relays? And which housings are you using?
And then on to the e-flashers... I'm looking for a pic of the connections at the switch. I'm pretty sure I swapped at least 2 when I put it back together because now the e-flashers don't work at all... Switch connections isn't labelled, so the wiring diagram doesn't help
I'm thoroughly unimpressed with the grounding scheme for the relay... worst setup I've ever seen... I'll start a new thread with my questions and some pics. |
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Eric&Barb
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Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 10:28 pm Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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With all the voltage resistance removed out of all the wiring connections there is no need for relays with only 5 watt higher than stock H-4 bulbs. Before getting the voltage resistance out of the wiring, you could burn your fingers on the fuse box clips and headlight knob shaft. Actually blistered the wiring insulation some near the headlight switch. Have used Hella and some off brand reflector/lens in our VWs.
E-Flasher switch does not have markings because when the switch is thrown all four wires are connected together....
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Thompson2
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Posts: 659
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 11:03 pm Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
With all the voltage resistance removed out of all the wiring connections there is no need for relays with only 5 watt higher than stock H-4 bulbs. Before getting the voltage resistance out of the wiring, you could burn your fingers on the fuse box clips and headlight knob shaft. Actually blistered the wiring insulation some near the headlight switch. Have used Hella and some off brand reflector/lens in our VWs.
E-Flasher switch does not have markings because when the switch is thrown all four wires are connected together.... |
Makes sense. The contacts in the switch are pretty beefy so I can see those carrying way more current than what the headlights pull.
And the e-flasher problem makes even less sense now than it did before... I'll have to ponder it. Nothing works when I pull the switch, but it works fine if I turn on the left turn signal. It flashes once if I turn on the right turn signal, then just kind of flickers. Turn signals work perfectly by themselves.. both sides. I'll start a dedicated thread for this one. It could drag out a bit. lol |
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
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Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2018 11:26 am Post subject: Re: Headlight switch questions |
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Try running ground wires from each taillight to the battery to the battery ground cable where it bolts to the body. That is a must for the taillights to work, and VW at the factory finally started to install such in 1970. Clean, dielectric grease the front TS grounds, and of course all the wiring connections. A good contact cleaner with silicone works well for the contact points in the turn signal switch.
Test the switch, it might not yet be connecting properly. Once installed an NOS ignition switch. First two times it would not engage the starter, third time it fired right up.
Took several tries and years to get the E-flashers to work in our single cab, finally one day six or so months after working on it, pulled the E-flash switch it worked. Bought the SC back in 1986. Guessing the relay might have had a corroded set of points. Did have to wire the E-flasher so they would work only with ignition switch turned on. Finally found a stock flasher relay that allows the E-flashers to work with ignition turned off about a year ago.
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