Super body on a std pan?

[rodeking]

Hi,
First time poster on this forum. I've decided to build a class 11 type bug as my next project. I picked up a 1971 Super for a song that is in pretty nice shape with the exception of the floors. It passed inspection and was registered last year, it was one of those deals where I could not afford to pass it up. I went into it fully knowing the strut front was not optimum for heavy off-road. But for what it will be used for here in the east I have my own ideas on how I can make it work for my needs. BUT now I've come across a 1970 std pan (less eng/trans) with the IRS and a BJ beam and it is nice, meaning no metal replacement needed.

So to get to the point what is needed to fit the Super body to the std pan? I know I'll be using the plasma and welder on the front sheet metal, that is not a problem. But because the super WB is like 3" more than the std, does that mean I will have to move the beam forward to get the wheels centered under the super fenders?

Thanks.

[TDCTDI]

Yes, the beam would need to be moved further forward than it would be in a standard beetle. How are you planning on driving the car? The Super front end will stand up to mild trail riding, NY terrain really does not allow for high speed off road driving, Lots of bumps, trees & seriously limited line of sight.

I used to drive plenty of trails in a whipped, bone stock '71 Super in NY & never had any issues except for balling it up while driving on top of the Aquaduct.

Before you try to reinvent the Super, why not sell it for a profit & roll that into a Standard Beetle that would better suit your needs?
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[rodeking]

That is definitely an option. The guy I got this from did a "tune up" and couldn't get it running again and got so p'd off he put it on CL. And I took it off his hands for a few Benjamins. Anyway they don't run good when the wires are 2-1-4-3.

Yes, if you are familiar with western and northern NY and northwestern PA then you know what kind of use this would get. And I'm thinking the struts may be ok, I'm not talking about jumps and rocks like the lucky guys out west.

Anyway I've looked this thing over and my idea involves a subframe that attaches to the bottom of the super frame head, an "A" arm lower link, and then fabricated spacers for the top of the struts. And then there is the option to use a different strut all together.

Then of course the normal strut tower bracing, and tieing the frame head into the cage, etc.

I've figured out that I can store the std pan on it's side in the end of my garage until I get to it so I think I may go and look at it.

[rodeking]

Came across this on another thread. no problemo.

The wheelbase difference is only about 3/4"

And here"s the super

[TDCTDI]

Do you have a title for the other pan? The VIN & registration follows the number stamped into the pan.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[rodeking]

Yeah it has a title but we are miles apart on what he wants and what I'll pay. So I guess I'll be cutting and fitting on mine when the time comes.

[earthquake]

I have always wanted to play with a lifted Super, I would make new lower control arms for it, make drop down mounting bracket for them and use some form of longer coil over struts for the front. I think it could be done.

Casey
_________________
74 CLASS 11 LOOK-A-LIKE
69 DUNE BUGGY
79 INTERNATIONAL SCOUT II
05 SCION XB SERIES RELEASE 2[#437]
95 Chevy C3500 dually
98 Ford E150
Link to Kelly J. Nolte 3/20/53 - 11/6/08
https://time-zonelabs.blogspot.com/p/about-kelly.html
DEATH TO CHINGERS!
[From a military recruitment poster in the novel "The Stainless Steel Rat" By Harry Harrison]

[rodeking]

Yes, that's exactly what I had in mind. An "A" arm lower and a much more substantial front link than that stabilizer bar that's on there now to brace the outer end of the A arm. If you locate the inner brackets for the A arm say 2" lower than stock then you fab a spacer the same dimension for the top of the strut and the geometry stays the same but you get 2" lift. Add a 2" body lift and you're good. Or get a longer strut for more travel with the dropped brackets. I'm sure it wouldn't be as strong as a beam but I don't need it to be for what I'll be doing with it.