Workshop lifting beam plan

[Jackrobbo]

My workshop has 6x2 joists running along length ways. I want to convert one of these joists into a lifting beam for a set of blocks. But I want a trolley, idea being it will allow forward and back movement for things like engines etc. I highly doubt it will ever be used to lift anything heavier than .5t so want it rating at atleast 1t really. My shop is 6m x6m double garage, so I don’t really want to have to put in a 6m I beam from front to back.

This is my idea, bolt on these 100x 50 Angles using 2 bolts that will go through the joist and clamp against each other pulling into the joist. I was planning on using m24 bolts. My idea being if the trolley is moved to either end it will still have a shear strength high enough not to break.


Please let me know your thoughts as I do not know wood, strength weakening etc. Or even strength to start with.


Failing this I will continue to Chuck a sling around the main joist above these ones but thought it would be so useful to have a trolley.

[calvinater]

2x6 18 ft (6M) span is already undersized

With your ceiling load above you must have some signifigant deflection at present.

If you can find a way to truss it to the roof above it may work.

Instead of an ibeam , look at LVL's , engineered lumber.
_________________
"Albatross"!

[TDCTDI]

That's obviously an older structure due to the fact that modern 2x6s don't measure a true 2" or 6", nor would using them as joists over that span meet any modern build codes.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[iowa vw]

[Busstom]

A few things to consider:
First, what's above the joists, how much weight? It looks like storage space.
Two, I agree that there's some sag, but they look healthy and they're not at any risk of collapse right now. So pull a string alongside them, from plate to plate, and assess the sag. 13 to 19 mm would be expected.
Three, if you've got the space and access above them, here's what I would do: in the general region where you want to hoist, run a strongback or two across those joists, perpendicular to them, from top plate to top plate (that means span the strongback(s) from one wall all the way to the other). They should be rated for the span, and like was mentioned already, an LVL beam of suitable size would be a good choice. You'll need to add blocks between the strongbacks and the top plates, and if the blocks don't rest above or very-near a wall stud, ADD wall studs under the strongbacks/blocks. Then, depending on how much sag you have, you would then "suck" the joists and strongbacks together with a Pony pipe clamp, and fasten them together with Simpson StrongTie fasteners.
Four: there are limits to the size of holes you're allowed to punch in joists, and their proximity to the edges..look them up via Google, this stuff is widely available, as are allowable joist spans and loads for species of wood. But your 25mm bolts through the joists are overkill, unnecessarily large. Metric equivalent of 1/2" bolts will be fine.

You know as much to call those sticks "joists," so you may understand what I'm describing here. But if you don't have the knowledge or skills, probably best left alone. But to my point: if you support the area where you want to set up your trolly, and transfer that load to the adjacent joists using strongbacks, you'll be fine. I'd do it in a heartbeat.

Alternatively, if you don't want to do anything other than hang your trolley rails, then do so, and when it's time to do lifts, prop some vertical supports between the shop floor and the bottom of the joists to support them, then just remove them when you're done. Think lally columns.

[PD41]

Legally by code you are only allowed to a drill hole within 3' of a wall.

[my59]

You could build one of the joists into composite beam by adding full length steel angles to the bottom and the top, so then no worries about the trolly falling off those little short angles you have.
What use is a trolley if you can only slide it a few feet?
_________________
my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget.

[Mark Evans]

[my59]

[KTPhil]

You might get away with sistering the whole span of the current joists, then reinforce with a steel plate, too, then fit your rails. I'd add cross-bracing between the existing joists, too.

[andk5591]

Harbor Freight has a coupon I think for their 1 ton engine hoist for $99. Something that I bought a couple years ago for one project and I end up using the hell out of it.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...

[Busstom]

[Jackrobbo]

[Jackrobbo]

Also correct they are healthy timbers and all they are supporting is a crawling loft space and the king truss which then supports the roof timbers. Double skin brick building all the way around too.

[16CVs]

At a minimum I would tie that into the roof rafters with some Conduit flattened on the end and through bolted on both sides. I would hanf anything real heavy in the middle of that with out some support.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.