How's my 40 horse gonna run with...

[sslick]

So I'm finally a little beyond long block stage...painting tin now and starting top end assembly. Can't wait to get this (my first build) fired up! So, here's what I have: 40hp block (stale air 1963), big bore kit, Engle 100 cam, stock rods, early type 3 heads (single port, bigger intake (?) valves), case was drilled for larger oil pump, case savers and cam bearings. Here's my dilemma: right now, and until I have the extra dough (I've spent enough on this already!), I have a stock intake, stock carb, and stock big cap dizzy. How's this thing gonna run with all the bigger better stuff underneath? Can I get by with the intake, carb and distributor for now? Recommendations on replacements for these? 010 dizzy? (I do have an 009). What carb? I want to retain a single carb and keep the og. look, although I'll be running an alternator so it won't be 100%. I look forward to any suggestions!

[catahoula lou]

I have a fully-balanced (rods/pistons, crankshaft/flywheel), full-flow 40HP with an external oil filter/cooler setup in my 1959 ragtop, which I built over 30 years ago, with ~120 compression all around. Can't recall if I installed a big-bore kit (good old Kolbenschmidts) or not.

I've been running a 009/30PICT-1 combination on a stock intake for several years to squeeze a couple additional HP out of the engine, being that I live in the mountains.

I've had no problems whatsoever through the years...

Best,
Thom
_________________
1 great wife
2 Catahoula Leopard Dogs (Mahogany Star and Spartan) - RIP Lucy, Braveheart, & Dusty!
1 1959 mango green Ragtop Bug (the "Mango")
1 1958 pantina red Lowlight Ghia (the "Chili Pepper")

Still looking for:
(1) My Dad's 1955 356 (he raced it amateur-class at Riverside and other courses during 1950s),
(2) My parent's black 1955 hardtop bug (CA license plate FWC 201 or FWG 201), and
(3) My parent's agave green 1957 ragtop bug (CA license plate LFK 734).

[mark tucker]

o9 is fine, just recurve it if needed.or the stock dist and recurve it as needed.

[slalombuggy]

You could buy an adapter and put a 32mm carb on it.

I've used 009s on everything from 36ers to full race 2332s. I'm sure on a dyno or on a distributor machine you could see the "dip" in the advance curve and it may not be a perfect advance curve for your engine (or any engine) but I have yet to feel a difference in day to day seat of the pants driving, nor has anyone I have ever put one in their car for. The only 009 I would stay away from is the current crop of "Chinese" knock offs as the parts and quality are shoddy I've taken a couple apart including a Kafer brand one and compared them to my stash of Brazilian and German 009s, there is no comparison in quality.

brad

[scubaseas]

check air/fuel mixture after it's running. You may have to go up one size on the main jet.
_________________
Al

08/1970 T2a Westphalia owned since 1980

ASE Master certification. 50 years pushing a wrench
Retired

[Kjell Roar]

Think you can put a 30 pict carb straight on instead of the original 28 pict.
I would keep the vacuum dizzy, a 009 wont give you anything positive with a single carb if it is in good shape.
A 009 has a mediocre ignition curve for a car, as it is made cheap and primary for industrial engines that runs on max rpms all the time.
_________________
I got a historic car, every scratch got a history...

My car, Aug. 4th, 1955 / an early 56: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=610438

[Raisedup58]

We’re running a 1592cc with the stock carb, fuel pump, and distributor. Runs like a raped ape and we love it. Looks like a bone stock stale air 40hp but runs so much better.
_________________
L245 Original Paint Light Bronze 1958 Ragtop
L456 Original Paint Ruby Red 1961 Sedan
Orignal Paint Beetle Wheel Collector
Instagram: Raisedup58
VW's At The Springs
facebook.com/vwsatthesprings