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Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50
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KentABQ Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 5:50 am    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

He made a harness for me in February, so he should still be around. Maybe he's swamped at the moment, but give him time. He's a great person to work with.
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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 6:19 am    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

He just made a harness for me.

I got the email just yesterday that it was shipped and he provided the tracking number. It should arrive today.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:

Wire qualith will depend on how you like to work. For instance with the D-Jet harnesses I have built...instead of using 3 diiferent but very similar wire gauges to be exactly like factory...I used a single wire gauge in the middle of the three. The up-to-date modern wire has lower resistance and cleaner signal than any of the three sizes of stock copper.


Would 16AWG be appropriate our should I be making sure to go 18AWG?
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

surfbus23 wrote:
raygreenwood wrote:

Wire qualith will depend on how you like to work. For instance with the D-Jet harnesses I have built...instead of using 3 diiferent but very similar wire gauges to be exactly like factory...I used a single wire gauge in the middle of the three. The up-to-date modern wire has lower resistance and cleaner signal than any of the three sizes of stock copper.


Would 16AWG be appropriate our should I be making sure to go 18AWG?



16 gauge is pretty heavy. I would go with 18 gauge. Even 20 gauge would be fine for EFI.

Bear in mind that gauge is a meaure of conductor diameter....not total wire diameter. 16 gauge is a fat wire. Even 24 gauge is quite common in MODERN EFI.

Really you need to be aure what fits the terminals you are crimping to. They have a range they operate with. 18-20 gauge is good.

I use 16 gauge for power wires but only in Teflon coated because the jacket is thinner. Ray


Last edited by raygreenwood on Fri Nov 17, 2017 12:18 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 12:02 am    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

Sweet. Thanks Ray! Will go for the 20AWG then.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 4:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

RayGreenwood's input on the crimper dies needed towards the bottom of the post. Great Info:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8879124#8879124
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 12:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

Can we make a list of the components that are polarity specific, and those that aren't?

I'd guess that the AAR, TTS, and throttle body switch would be swappable… I ask, because I'm dissecting a problematic stock harness right now, and one injector plug is reversed from the other four, but nothing looks to have been tampered with.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 12:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

the wiring diagram here should give you what you need https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/afc_f...Manual.pdf
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 12:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

I’ve got that printed out and handy, but it is not specific to how the wires are inserted into the plugs. It has been discussed before, but I think it would be nice to have all that infinite here in case anybody else’s harness is so gone that wires can’t be traced. (Like mine here! Most of the wires have physically cracked through the copper so they can no longer be tested for continuity. Razz )

Robbie

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 12:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Can we make a list of the components that are polarity specific, and those that aren't?

I'd guess that the AAR, TTS, and throttle body switch would be swappable… I ask, because I'm dissecting a problematic stock harness right now, and one injector plug is reversed from the other four, but nothing looks to have been tampered with.

Thanks,
Robbie


Even those that seem to be simple two wire that are not polarity specific.....you should put in the proper order...so you can trouble shoot between ECU and component by wire number.

Also while the part its connected to may not be polarity specific...say like a TS-2 two wire which is just a simple resistor....what and how its connected to items on the ECU board may need a specific order so I would keep everything dead on to the wiring diagram. Ray
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 5:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

Ok, so according to this wiring diagram, how should the injector wires be plugged in?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 7:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

Thats easy. By the way....They are directional only for wiring diagram use. Solenoids you can switch around....on the injector end. But they are signal signal to ground or ground signal to + in this case.

The + is supplied through the resistor pack. Its ganged
which is fine....because they all fire at one time.

But.....thinking in that direction....ganged...and no need for polarity some would just ask then why is the ground (which is signal side) from the ECU...not just a ganged ground as well? Why four wires....14, 15, 32, 33?

Its because the signal driver may or may not handle the load of all four injectors. Thats why I noted....unless you know whats going on....on the "board"....dont go changing things around.

But the reason they even make many injectors with a +/-...is simply to force you to connect them one way.....for troubleshooting and wire tracing.

While its clear with this design you could swap any of the ECU/signal side wires around witjout causing an issue....why would you? Then you would have to rewrite a wiring diagram to show the next owner where you moved all the wires to.

Unless you aren't numbering your new harness wires at all.....in that case.....never mind....carry on! Laughing

By the way....there are SOME solenoid injectors....none used on VW....that DO need to have correct polarity. They are old and large and are magnetic plunger type. Ours are not like that.

Ray
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 11:16 am    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

Just bought a new Kyle harness. Looks good but why doesn't he use the boots that are available around the connectors?

Looking at Tcash data I can see the 7-pin AFM connector and the 2-position boots on Digi-Key. The 2-pos boot is part of the "Superseal" line and two others are listed but NOT the 7-postion boot (if there is one).

Anyone?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 11:38 am    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

I thought Kyle did use new boots. That would be weird not to. Napa has them too.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 10:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Ok, so according to this wiring diagram, how should the injector wires be plugged in?

Rule of thumb: if it isn't labeled, then it's most likely not critical. On injectors, I'd go with majority rule: make the oddball one match the others.

The thermo-time switch is super-critical! Get it backwards and you burn a trace off the ECU board (yeah, it's repairable...)

I built my harness using 18 AWG. In retrospect, next time I'd use 20 AWG. Some of the small 0.110 terminals hold two wires. While I could get two in, it wasn't very pretty. Or, you could go mixed-mode: 18 AWG on the high current stuff (power, injectors, AAR valve) and 20 AWG on everything else.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 12:07 am    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

telford dorr wrote:
asiab3 wrote:
Ok, so according to this wiring diagram, how should the injector wires be plugged in?

Rule of thumb: if it isn't labeled, then it's most likely not critical. On injectors, I'd go with majority rule: make the oddball one match the others.

The thermo-time switch is super-critical! Get it backwards and you burn a trace off the ECU board (yeah, it's repairable...)

I built my harness using 18 AWG. In retrospect, next time I'd use 20 AWG. Some of the small 0.110 terminals hold two wires. While I could get two in, it wasn't very pretty. Or, you could go mixed-mode: 18 AWG on the high current stuff (power, injectors, AAR valve) and 20 AWG on everything else.


Definately agree on the wire gauge...eapecially with clean modern wire with better than 1974-79 insulation. 20 gauge works vreat....really....for pretty much all of it. Ray
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 11:26 am    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
I thought Kyle did use new boots. That would be weird not to. Napa has them too.


Kyle's harness uses rubber (maybe silicone?) inserts around each wire in each plug. So while you can't see any boots, the sealing effect is there, and a better seal anyway. VW uses these kinds of seals on new stuff still to this day.

Robbie
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 11:57 am    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
SGKent wrote:
I thought Kyle did use new boots. That would be weird not to. Napa has them too.


Kyle's harness uses rubber (maybe silicone?) inserts around each wire in each plug. So while you can't see any boots, the sealing effect is there, and a better seal anyway. VW uses these kinds of seals on new stuff still to this day.

Robbie


Yes...those can be either "made" by using silicone pumped in from the outside....it works....but is rather "GM-ish"....or there are plug housing part numbers that have silicone or rubber "stuffers" ...for lack of a better word....available that pop into the cavities behind the wires.

I think they are a good enough seal.....though I would not call them a better seal than a boot. I think they were developed for some of the junior timer series plug bodies that did not have a groove to retain a boot. I think they were then used by others because they were cheaper than sourcing a boot.

The problem with the stuffer blocks alone is that if the wires move around a lot...get pulled or pushed...the wire works the rubber stuffers loose and they pop out. So on one hand ...the 1980's"GM-ish" habit of pumping goo into the back of plug bodies around the wires works better as a seal...but it makes a cruddy job of replacing a plug body or a connector end. Ray
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2019 9:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

I added Digikey boots to my Kyle harness before I installed it.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 1:30 am    Post subject: Re: Rebuild Your FI wiring harness for less than $50 Reply with quote

As I will be soon beginning to gather parts for my bus and evaluating systems, what should I look for in engine performance or system function that would tell me if I need a new harness? Or it is just a physical thing that plastic and rubber is just deteriorated and unsafe?

The bus has been in storage for 16+ years, though I have driven it once for trial in the past two(up and back on the street three driveways), and it has idled nicely around the same, before some of the fuel vapor system hose sections gave out. I know I will have to pull and clean every electrical terminal on the bus anyhow.
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