Krochus’s turbo 2165 Baja Bug sequential EFI swap

[ach60]

We do everything by pin location on the Satellite Harnesses, color codes, we don't need no stinking color codes!
Also
I've driven a lot of POS Rental Cars,
20 years later, the Ford Tempo still stands out as the most incompetent car I have ever driven.
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Good Luck
Al

[Krochus]

[Mavelotta]

I have some starter wire harness packs

This is 230' of wiring to get you started and includes
Injectors x 4 - 9' - 18ga
TPS - 9' - 20ga
IAT - 9' - 20ga
CLT - 9' - 20ga
Wasted Spark Coil - 9' -18/16ga
VR/Hall Crank Sensor - 11' - 20ga
Fuel Pump - 14' - 16ga

I can make them for individual coils as well.

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The Dub Shop
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Facebook-Tech-Store

[theDrew]

i bought a whole grip of solid colors and striped wires when I did my turbo efi harness off of ebay.

document everything -- every connection by pin and by color.

when you try and change something or trouble shoot a year later, you'll thank yourself.
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Turbo 2276 MS3X build http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=673125
1985 Vanagon Campmobile w/ 2005 EJ25

[Krochus]

[Krochus]

I haven’t done much to the bug as I’ve been working a lot of overtime. The electric motor repair business is hopping right now.

I did try an idea I had for seating the quick release fuel line fittings into the nylon fuel line. You see all kinds of improvised tools on the internet some using lube and heat. It turns out that a RCBS rock chucker reloading press will press these on like nobody’s business. Make a nice square cut on the nylon line, chamfer the end with your case chamfer tool then lock just a little more hose sticking out of a flare tool clamp than the shank on the fitting. Then seat the fitting into the hose like you were full length resizing a 30/06 case. (Remove the plastic spring clamp first)

VIOLA! Perfect OE style fuel line.

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1970 Turbo Baja Bug Turbaja 2165 t3/t4 Speeduino sequential EFI LS3 coil on plug ignition

1965 Chevy c30, Microsquirt turbo aluminum 5.3/nv4500

[thomas.]

That looks like a bullet reloading press. RCBS maybe ?

[HotStreetVw]

that's kind of neat your using tools from one hobby to work on another. good job being resourceful, now clean up that reloading bench
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4inBhore
50 Split - 2724cc NA. Haltech injected
62 Notchback - 2542cc Turbo WIP

[Krochus]

[Krochus]

LS coil mounting is going to be pretty straightforward inside what’s left of the rear inner fender. This location allows for a pretty standard LS plug wire length

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1970 Turbo Baja Bug Turbaja 2165 t3/t4 Speeduino sequential EFI LS3 coil on plug ignition

1965 Chevy c30, Microsquirt turbo aluminum 5.3/nv4500

[Krochus]

Having fun taking advantage of this nice extended weekend

Started my electrical panel and with building my fuel system. As you can see this is a “returnless” (short return) system that will operate at a fixed pressure.

The push lock fittings so far are working great. Right now I am planning on tapping the bottom of my tank for 1/4 npt and using the “tee” method of fuel return

My fuel tank is pretty nappy inside so that might need some TLC prior to reinstalling.

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1970 Turbo Baja Bug Turbaja 2165 t3/t4 Speeduino sequential EFI LS3 coil on plug ignition

1965 Chevy c30, Microsquirt turbo aluminum 5.3/nv4500

[Krochus]

My engine management harness is done. Barring anything I missed running wires for I will have 24 individual strands going through the rear firewall. A couple of which are shielded cables. Not included are things like gauges, alternator wiring and idiot lights.

Do yourself a favor if you find yourself making one of these. Buy some Polyken 277 harness tape. This stuff is da bomb and makes for nice near looking loom joints and branches.

Projects creep is setting in. After removing the truly massive and totally baller speaker enclosure the previous owner had built I really decided I want to have a back seat. So before where my battery and ignition computer lived underneath a lid where the back seat would have been. My plan is to get a back seat and make a lid to cover where the cargo area was. Then that’s where my injection panel and battery box will live.

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1970 Turbo Baja Bug Turbaja 2165 t3/t4 Speeduino sequential EFI LS3 coil on plug ignition

1965 Chevy c30, Microsquirt turbo aluminum 5.3/nv4500

[Dale M.]

Nice...

Dale
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“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[Krochus]

For the entire fuel delivery system these were probably the hardest to figure out. A couple small Mom n pop places make an npt to quick release fitting but they are very expensive.

The part number shown with a double flare tool and some flare to npt fittings will get you what you need.

One of these will go on the return at the tee on the bottom of the tank

Another will connect to the front of the passenger side fuel rail

And the other two will make the crossover between the two rails.

All in all I’m very pleased with the OE style nylon fuel lines and fittings. When I planned my fuel lines I made a diagram with all the AN stuff I would need and quickly realized that no matter how good AN stuff is I was gonna have like 30 fittings all of which was a potential leak had I went that route and like a $300 expense of fittings alone. This setup cuts me down to a dozen or so total

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1970 Turbo Baja Bug Turbaja 2165 t3/t4 Speeduino sequential EFI LS3 coil on plug ignition

1965 Chevy c30, Microsquirt turbo aluminum 5.3/nv4500

[gprudenciop]

That looks really good! The one thing I wished I had done was use a bulkhead plug.it sucks so bad to have to remove every plug on the motor to remove it.also when I used a tee at the bottom of my tank it would return air bubbles once hot that caused weird running issues and it would heat the fuel faster also. Just an fyi....
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Never look down at anybody unless you are helping them up..
Loaning someone your strength instead of reminding them of their weakness = kindness..

[Krochus]

[clonebug]

I used those same NPT to flare fittings on my fuel rail but just built complete metal fuel crossover lines between the rails.
I also wasn't impressed with using all those AN style fittings at $5.00-$7.00 each.

Nice to see you solve your issues the way that works best for you.

Every build is a personal thing....
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[Krochus]

That’s some nice looking tubing bending.

I thought about just using a hard line like you did but I don’t have much luck getting a hard line bend to land where I want it. They’re kinda my nemesis lol

I think I’m going to put a couple of 90 degree tees off the back of the rails and have my crossover line arch along the contour of the shroud with a couple of hold downs along the way.
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1970 Turbo Baja Bug Turbaja 2165 t3/t4 Speeduino sequential EFI LS3 coil on plug ignition

1965 Chevy c30, Microsquirt turbo aluminum 5.3/nv4500

[Krochus]

Let’s talk about pre pump filters.

I’m debating if a new fresh screen inside the tank pickup would suffice for pre fuel pump filtration. I bought a 3/8 standard carb fuel filter to serve as a pre filter but to use it I have to have 3/8 rubber fuel line at the intake side of my fuel system.

If I do away with it I can have nylon quick release there as well and not have any rubber or hose clamps anywhere in the system.
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1970 Turbo Baja Bug Turbaja 2165 t3/t4 Speeduino sequential EFI LS3 coil on plug ignition

1965 Chevy c30, Microsquirt turbo aluminum 5.3/nv4500

[clonebug]

I just bought a bunch of brake line from NAPA that had flares on the ends.

I used this bender for some of it....

https://www.amazon.com/Ion-Tool-3-in-1-Tubing-Bend...ube+bender

I also used one of those cheap benders you can put in the vice. With a little forethought and installing it after one bend.......which might be harder for you since the body is on........you can place the bender on the line to figure out where the next bend goes.
You need to use a rubber mallet to help work the line around the second bender but it works just as well and is cheaper. I think I paid $8.00 for mine.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648484-Tubing-Be...ube+bender

I did my first one perfect on the bends and flared the second end. While admiring my handywork I then realized I had forgotten to install the second flare nut before doing the flare.......
I ended up just cutting the 1/4 inch of the flare off and re-flaring it. It still worked but wasn't perfect anymore......

One thing I have found after a few install and removals is the flares need to be tightened pretty tight in order to not leak. Make sure you check them after pressurizing the system for any seepage and tighten them up again if leaking.

I planned on upgrading them but haven't after 5 years.........
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