dual battery relay question

[rbhoward]

I was preparing to hook up my auxillary battery set up when I realized i pulled an amateur move.

I am new to the working of the VW motor and realized I purcahsed the German Supply relay kit. It speaks of making connnections with the wire coming off the voltage regulator. I was looking for the regulator and realized that my 68 does not have one. With the help of a friend on the phone I further realized that my motor does not have a generator anymore instead it has been switched to an alternator. That is good because it will have more amps.

My question- Can I still use the auxillary batttery relay kit from German Supply with the alternator? And if yes, where does the lead intended to link to the regulator wire splice in now? To the wire from the alternator to the front end of the bus or the wire going straight to the battery? Or not at all and need another relay kit?

Any advice is appreciated. German Supply is closed on Mondays or I would have already called.

thanks

[VDubTech]

Why don't you just send Scott a PM and let him answer the question about his product? Even though his shop may be closed today I'm sure he still checks his email and most likely comes here as well.
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First Trip in the RustyBus:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=279077&highlight=

[germansupplyscott]

with an internally regulated alternator the blue wire of the relay kit (relay terminal 86) connects to the d+ terminal of the alternator. if you ordered the generator kit it might not work too well unless you come up with a clean way to tap into the D+ wire. our kit comes with a splitter for that wire, but only if you specify 'for alternator'. your kit is designed to attach to terminal 61 of the regulator with a piggy-back type terminal. the blue wire on the alternator kit is also a bit longer.
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SL

[rbhoward]

Scott, so it will work if I can splice in cleanly to the D+ wire? No problem with the amps or anything? There was a bag of connectors in the box that I can try to use or go to my FLAP and get it cleanly connected.

thanks

[germansupplyscott]

it will work. it would be better that have the correct kit than splice or modify the kit that you have. for one thing there is no way for us to ensure that the connections are good if you start modifying things but there is nothing that will prevent what you have from working so long as the installation is well done.
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SL

[rbhoward]

Scott,

I sent you a PM. Can you please take a look at it.

thanks,

[raintheory]

I'd like more info on hooking one of these up before I get one...

External voltage reg. My faux "Adventurewagon" has an RV hookup too, but it's not actually wired yet. My spare battery would better suit me anyway as I'm not always near city power.

I assume I need an inverter? No big deal I guess, I have a small one that hooks to either cig lighter or directly to battery. That should suit my needs correct? Is there one somewhere that will hookup to my (now disconnected) standard outlet, alongside city power? ...Or do I have to do something different/separate to accomplish this./.?

EDIT: PO supplied me with some kind of inverter, but the info inside is vague (and not complete due to flaking off), and I'm not sure the thing even works.

EDIT 2: Also, I don't particularly want the spare battery relay to be controlled by ignition key. Is there an alternate method?

Thanks!
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1974 Tin-top Campmobile
1973 Adventurewagen [RIP]

[raintheory]

Apologies for the bump (it's not shameless!), it's just that I have a current pending order for parts that has already processed, and in the interest of saving somewhat on shipping I'd like to know if I should add the relay to this order.

Thanks guys!
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1974 Tin-top Campmobile
1973 Adventurewagen [RIP]

[timo78]

I have the Hella AUX battery relay[busdepot], I did not hook it to my Alternator, but instead to the + side of my coil. I pop the fuse every so often but it's been running fine for about 10 months. I think an inline resistor would help with blowing the fuses, just haven't gotten around to it. I just keep a bunch of fuses with me. Of course someone will come along and tell me I'm wrong, but oh well works for me.
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> 78Grµn Westfalia `Donkey`
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It may be bigger than you and it may be bigger than me, but it’s not bigger than you AND me; can you dig it?

[jamesdagg]

The problem with connecting the relay to the coil is if the aux. battery is completely run down it will drain power when you are cranking the engine and that is likely what's blowing fuses.

Using the regulator wire delays connecting the aux. battery to the charging circuit until the engine actually starts.

Inverters are expensive and lose power (as heat). Try to get all 12 volt appliances. Many electronics like TV's etc. that run on 120 volts actually have step down power converters inside and run on 12 volts, again losing some power as heat during the conversion. So buy a 12 volt TV and avoid going up and down and incurring loses.

Unfortunately high heat devices don't work well on 12 volts. It takes forever to boil water in a 12 volt kettle. That's where gas is good.

If you do need an inverter you must calculate it's capacity based on your expected load. Or if your rich just buy a really big one! You just need to understand Watts = volts x amps. If your device uses 60 watts @ 120 volts it will still use 60 watts at 12.5 volts but more amps. At 120 volts it will use 60/120= 0.5 amps. At 12.5 volts it will use 60/12.5= 4.8 amps. So you need an inverter that outputs about 5 amps.

I got a power converter (120 to 12) out of a trailer at a wrecker and built a custom setup. Here are a couple of diagrams. I have it set up so my fridge will only run on shore power or the alternator unless I throw a defeat switch with warning light. I also put in a buzzer so I don't drive away while plugged in.

jim
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'72 FI Westy
'71 Super rear inside defrost vents no longer available

[sherpa7200]

I have a 1978 2.0L Fuel Injection bus. I am replacing the alternator and ordered a new wiring harness from Bus Depot. The new wiring harness has only one connection to the B+ post on the wiring harness (a red wire that connects to the starter solenoid).

I have 2 connections labeled "87" on my dual battery relay (connected via sheet metal screw to the back of the bus on the driver side). One (a red wire) connects to the auxiliary battery. The second (a black wire) connects to the B+ post on the alternator.

I've reviewed the Bentley wiring diagram ("J") which appears to show a black wire leaving the alternator, going through a connector, to "14" with a circle around it. I have no idea how to interpret "14".

I read somewhere on The Samba that this might be an unnecessary wire to the computer diagnostic system.

My question is this: is the connection from the relay to the B+ post on the alternator necessary?



I'm posting a few pictures of the relay for reference. My apologies if this isn't the right thread to post this question.

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1978 Westfalia