The Stupid Question Thread

[Zonkey]

I have a 1970 bus. I was looking through Bentley and have some questions on the shift rod.
1.) In the image, circled what look like a small clip of some sort on the Bentley page, it's not described as anything, maybe it's nothing, but I'm not taking any chances. What is it?
2.) My shift rod bushings, the shuttlecock looking things, is one of them supposed to have a metal ring inside the flared out end? Is it the rear one?
3.) I saw something that said there was an update where they put an additional bushing in the middle? Should I do order another shuttlecock thing and do that too? Thanks guys.

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1970 Adventurewagon

[airschooled]

Hi Zonkey,

1 and 2 are the same. It's sort of a tensioning ring for the shuttlecock-looking bushings. See number two here?

Lots of good reading here:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=583515


I have driven lots of beautifully-shifting buses with two shuttlecock bushings, and several terribly-shifting buses with three bushings. Swabbing out the old grease and freshening up with lots of new grease is your best bet, regardless of whether or not you drill a hole and install a new bushing. Some people say the new bushings don't install well, and old should be preserved when possible. I've had luck doing both.

Robbie
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[Zonkey]

Thanks Robbie, that was a good read, but also raised more questions in my empty head ...

that pic you posted above me, in the reading it says #2 is actually the front, the one with the metal ring inside. I'm going to assume that's correct and also that the rear bushing gets NO RING. Safe to assume?

Now, I ordered this kit from Jbugs:

https://www.jbugs.com/product/211798200.html

Any thoughts on this kit? Quality? Should I get it somewhere else? What worries me (and I'll have to check when I get home) is both my shuttle cocks look very similiar and in the pic above they have different part numbers? I'd like to get it correct the first time without having to doing all the work again.

Different question, the metal "nub" with the spring on the ball on the end of the shifter ... mine looks a little worn, is it replaceable. It's not a big deal I can replace it later if it's not without dropping engine and tranny, just wondering.

Also, what does everyone use to clean out the tube the rod goes in?
For lube I read silicon based grease gets the nod here because it is easier on plastic parts, sounds reasonable? Thanks for the patrience and help, I want to get this correct.
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1970 Adventurewagon

[airschooled]

I have used the JBugs kit with good success. Bummer is it comes with bushings for every Volkswagen, so you pay extra to get parts you don’t need. I have told them about this before.......

The spring-loaded pin in the shifter ball is easily treated with the engine and transaxle installed. Unfortunately, unless you have master fabrication skills, obtaining a good used shifter with less wear will be the best option, unless someone started reproducing them in the last few years. Since it only “works” on its sides, rotating the pin 90* with good pliers will get you GREAT bang for your buck until you find a better pin.

I like Super Lube on those bushings since Ray Greenwood mentioned it a few years ago. I used red general purpose grease on muni bushings six years ago before I knew of anything else to use and it still shifts easily.

For the tube cleanout, get a rag and cut it into a strip. Tie the center of a thin rope around the center of the rag strip, and make sure the rope has a good ten feet on each end. Have a partner use a shop vac to suck one end of the string down the shift tube from the other side. Then coat the rag in your cleaning chemical of choice and “floss” the tube with your partner, getting the rag all the way through in both directions. Replace the rag when it’s filty, and tie a new one on. It may take three or four rags before one comes out clean enough to consider installing the shift rod. Front rubber bellows first, then the bushings go on the rod AFTER the rear bellows is on the rod.

Good luck,
Robbie
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Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
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[Zonkey]

Thanks Robbie! I'll do just that with the shift "nub" thing, great idea. I can't picture it yet with the bellows and bushings but I'm sure it becomes apparent after I screw it up the first time. I ordered that lube you suggested, aint cheap but nothing is with these busses. Working on this bus is slow going but I feel like I'm making progress and it's not as intimidating as I first thought, especially with all the great help and advice here, thanks everyone!
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1970 Adventurewagon

[ivwshane]

I'm finishing up my engine and after having everything powder coated and the throttle body rebuilt (thanks whip!), I'm looking at my EGR linkage and the throttle valve return spring and I'd like to get them refurbished or something.

I'm pretty sure no one makes a new EGR linkage so I haven't bothered searching for a new one but what about a new return spring, does anyone make that?

I thought about having them re-plated, does anyone having any places they use? Any members here on thesamba that do it?

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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[airschooled]

[Wildthings]

the shuttlecocks don't have a particularly arduous job, they mainly just keep the shift rod from banging around in the tube and making a racket. So long as they are well lubed they don't tend to give problems. With everything installed, you can park your van on a hill and squirt motor oil into the front of the tube and let the excess run out the back. This will loosen up any old crappy grease a bit.

[ivwshane]

[airschooled]

ivwshane, this is encroaching into another thread, as the EGR rebuild is neither a stupid question, nor easily answered. An engineer friend of mine is working on new diaphragms and rebuilding valve bodies, as much as they can be with used parts... Expect more detail in February/march when we get his bus past the emissions test. Basically everything that was present on the dealership showroom floor needs to be there for a California emissions test. Do not take any long drives without blocking off the hole at the plenum, as the vacuum leak will push into dangerously lean territory.

When is your smog test due? That will determine your course of action.
Robbie
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Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
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[ivwshane]

[Kabasue]

Can I connect a tach to the coil's (plus/connection 15) to get the 12 volts needed to run the tach, and the other side to the coils (minus/connection 1)?
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Remember to get your VW spayed or neutered
71 SB convertible (Finally Finished!)
73 Transporter (next project)
73 Westy with a 411 engine (Finally Finished)

[airschooled]

[tommu]

[Kabasue]

[Wildthings]

You don't need a tach to set the timing. Just hook your timing light up and rev the engine. Once the timing mark stops advancing you are at maximum advance. This should occur at around 3500 rpm, but the exact rpm is not important.

[Zonkey]

Undercoating. How do most people deal with rust underneath without a full on resto? It's busy under there with lots of nooks and crannys. I've read about rust converters and acids and epoxys and sand blasters and wire wheels till my eyes bleed and still can't make a decision. I'm thinking:

Pressure wash (to remove dirt) -> Degrease to remove grease (with what i don't know, oven cleaner?) -> Pressure wash again to remove degreaser -> Rust-oleum Rust Reformer

Also, there still is this (original?) coating. Should I remove that or paint right over that?

I just need some simple guidance, some straight forward technique, I'm not looking for a full blown resto, just want to make a servicable reliable vehicle. Thanks!
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1970 Adventurewagon

[notchboy]

If it were me....

I would PW then degrease then PW as needed. Any visible rust either sand or wire brush away as best as possible. Put converter or rustoleum on, what ever floats your boat.

I say it nonchalant because you will never get it all and if you do something that lasts 5 seconds then its 5 seconds better than it was.

After its all clean coat it with wax or spray can rubber undercoat.
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[Zonkey]

Thanks notchboy, I think that's what I'm going to do. It's hard to get everything covered I guess you do the best you can.

New question, I got my gas tank out last night and it looks really good. When I goto put it back in, what is that sticky felt stuff that is on the bottom of the tank?

Also, does anyone know if the OHMs are correct for this fuel sender in these positions, Bentley doesn't mention ohm readings....

Sender high, full tank of gas ~6.8 OHMS .....

Sender low, empty tank ~81.3 OHMS ....

Thanks!
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1970 Adventurewagon

[Wildthings]

[quote="Zonkey"] When I goto put it back in, what is that sticky felt stuff that is on the bottom of the tank?/quote]

You mean sticky stuff inside the tank or outside the tank?