Wideband Results

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We rented widebands when they cost $2000-2500 to buy. Now they are $250-400, so there's not much point in renting a tool which will be used over and over again.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Innovate-MTX-L-PLUS-Wideband-Kit-3918-p/innovate-3918.htm
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[jeffrey8164]

That’s logical. Maybe this question is best for your site but I’ll ask anyway.
Do you think the 8’ cable is sufficient for a Ghia dash or glovebox mount? The 18’ cable seems a bit much. Can one “extend” the 8’ cable or is there a special sender wire in there somewhere that precludes this?
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Volkswagen!
Turning owners into mechanics since 1938.

“Let he that is without oil throw the first rod”
(Compression 8.7:1)

[Splitdog]

The 18' was perfect for my bug. By the time you run it where you want, etc.
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CH³NO²

Z = z² + C

Der Blitzkrieg Kafers

#notacallooker

[oprn]

I sure don't regret buying one! You will get more performance out of it than a lot of other bling items that are twice the price.

[clonebug]

Here is one I use. It never needs calibration and it has worked for 4 yrs on my buggy with the same O2 sensor.
Some people burn up sensors like cigarettes.......

https://www.plxdevices.com/Wideband-O2-Touch-Screen-Multi-Guage-p/897346002719.htm

It can be daisy chained with other sensors if desired and will display voltage without anything extra so you can replace your voltmeter gauge if you have one. Fit's in a standard gauge opening.
I have a EGT daisy chained to it right now.

The wire running from the O2 sensor in back uses a mini molex plug into the controller which is easy to get and you can build your own extension or else get some matching gauge wire and just cut and extend it.
You can see the plug in the video picture.
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[epayne611]

I run the PLX as well but with the Bluetooth adapter, so my phone is the gauge and no need to run long wires to the front. $170...

https://www.plxdevices.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=897346002870

[APPLEGREENVW]

[jeffrey8164]

[madmike]

I watch that Gauge more then the tach I have a MTX-L
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'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works"

[67rustavenger]

Throwing my hat in the ring.
1679
35x32 Semi-Hemi DP heads. No fluff and buff.
Webcam 118
1.4 rockers
1 3/8" header. No exhaust leaks. I checked!
Bla, Bla, Bla! I'm dragging out the resume on this engine again.
Dellorto DRLA 36 carbs.
28mm vents
.47 Idle jets
.2 Emulsion tubes
130 main jets
185 AC jets

CB MS-Digital distributor (vacuum reference). Set at 15°. Per the installation instructions. I'm still learning this distributors tuning aspects.

First drive with the initial tune, was lean. I have been running these jet settings for a while . And it sucks.
.47 idle jets=16 AFR at idle.
1/32th pedal throttle got me, 16.8 to 17.3, AFR.
WFO, 10.2 with the accel pump in play. After that at WFO on the hiway. AFR was 11.0 sustained.
Cruise was, 16.8 to 17.3 at 1/32 throttle position.

Jet stacks removed. Acell pump backed all the way off.
AFR at idle was 16.7 - 17.8.
2K RPM AFR was 18 - 19. The engine was completely gutless.

I upped the idle jets to .50.
Idle was 13.0 - 13.6. @950RPM
2K RPM read 17.4 - 18.0 AFR. I had better response to throttle inputs.

Put the stacks back in with a huge main jet(1.62) 180 AC jet.
Idle was 13.3 - 14.6 @ 950 RPM.
1/32 pedal @ 2500 RPM AFR was 16.3 - 17.1.
WFO AFR was 8.9.

Installed a 190 AC jet.
Idle was 14.6 - 17.1 AFR
Main jet is now 1.30. Cruise at 2500 RPM gave me 15.0 - 16.5 AFR.
I didn't note the WFO reading as It's difficult to read a gauge, tach and watch the road when things are happening rather quickly.

Accel pumps are now in play. I adjusted them just until the linkage stopped hanging up on the unthreaded edge of the pump shafts where the springs ride.

At every jet change I ran thru the LBI. Carb sync was verified before I started the jet swaps. The timing was verified via my laptop connected to the
MS-Digital data port.

Driving impressions are fairly good. With the .47 idle jets. The engine had a studdery feeling.
With the .50 idle jets and 190AC jets. I get smooth throttle response and a smooth cruise.

I'm gonna play a little with it today. Between rain storms.
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Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
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GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[oprn]

I want to reinforce something that the experienced guys keep saying on this thread.

Do not trust that the size marked on jets is what they actually are - even if you bought them new!
When I was tuning the idle curcuit on my carbs nearly a year ago I started with 55s - too rich, 52s - better, 50s - worse! What the heck? Oh well - 47s - big change and about right. Done!

Now winter is here and it acts a wee bit lean(no surprise)so lets put the 50s back it then.

Wait a minute... check them first! Out comes the miniture drill bits, find a size that fits these 50s and guess what? The drill bit is too big to fit both the 52s AND the 55s! The 50s are actually larger that the 55s! Now I look at them and they are not new, they are a bit too dark, as in tarnished so although they all came from the same supplier at the same time they were not new nor sized as marked. Lesson learned.

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Can I just ask this. If I want the mains on my 40 dells to come in early I would fit what number air jet. I have a 180 at the moment. My guess is a bigger number like a 210 which is more air. More air get the fuel to emulsify quicker and starts the mains working sooner

[Zed999]

[Wreck]

[GARRICK.CLARK]

I've got the floats set right. I did have a problem with them being to high, it raised the level of fuel too close to the aux fuel outlet. Zedd I might take up your offer on the AIR'S. Thanks

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Is it possible to see on a DIGITAL AFR gauge when the idles finish and when the mains start,When all is done. In the past all I've seen is rich LOW and RICHER at WOT .
I'm looking at cruising fairly lean 15's with a richer WOT. 12.8.
I cant wait to get this bug finally tuned right.

[tattooed_pariah]

[VdanielW]

I could make a difference to my afr readings by adjusting the idle enrichment screw at all speeds during idle progression cruise. I found that my engine liked to idle a bit rich (12.5 or so) so I put in smaller idle jets to compensate when on progression. Flat road freeway driving my idles were done between 65 & 70mph and the mains would start to come in. For me, the dreaded lean spot was only taken care of when I dropped the venturi down a size. Main air jets made very little change to when the mains came on. The only time I could get the mains to come in early enough, with the larger venturi, was when I ran no air jet at all. They did, however, make a huge difference in the top end of the rpm range. I got a best freeway mpg of 31mpg on a 1.5hr drive to Anahiem (31.3 there and 30.8 back).

[GARRICK.CLARK]

That's a good mpg ya got there.
When I'm done with idles and mains I'm expecting no lean hole. Theses 40 dells have allways been rich. I'm using 34 vents. I'll try the 36 vents I have when I'm finished tuning.
I'm sure the float level is right. I no that makes a big difference. The fuel level in the bowl and emulsion tube wells need to be just right.
If you lower the fuel level in the bowl it makes it harder for the mains to start working, as well as fitting larger vents.

[udidwht]