Rear drum nut torque on CV shaft models

[Starbucket]

Try putting a few flat washers between drum and tool.

[mascrappo]

[Starbucket]

[Tim Donahoe]

I’ll say it again: you have the tool turned around backwards—into the position for the flywheel nut. Remove the top part of the tool—the geared part that is held with a cotter pin. Stick this geared part in from the other side of the tool. Reinstall the cotter. Doing this will bring the geared wheel closer to the hub (and your tool’s gear plate).

Have you attempted to switch the geared wheel to the opposite end, yet?

The tool was made for two different applications. One is for the flywheel gland nut, the other is for your rear drums. The hex part of the tool has two ends, right? One end is shorter—in relation to the arm—than the other end, which is longer. The shorter hex end is for removing drums.

Also, be sure you have the gear plate attached properly to the drum. Be sure the beveled lug holes of the tool are visible, like the beveled lug holes of a wheel.

If, after switching these parts around, you continue to have a problem, then you have bought a funky tool. But I think your issue is simply not understanding the two-fold purpose of the tool, and how it must be adjusted for each job.

Edit: I just went to Cipi1’s site. They sell a 6 and 12 volt Torquemeister with two separate geared shafts (this one is cheaper for some weird reason). They also sell a Torquemeister for 12 volt systems, only (this one is two dollars cheaper). If you scroll down to the description part of their ad—for either one of these tool—they clearly instruct you to switch the geared shaft around, according to whether you’re loosening a flywheel nut, or a drum nut.

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[mascrappo]

[Starbucket]

Send those pic.s to Cip1 and tell them to send a new one or refund. Plus the lower pic. shows a great Fracture point for the socket to fail.

[Cusser]

mascrappo - I just went out and took my combination square to my new EMPI Torque Tool, just as you did in your photos. Mine is significantly straighter than yours.

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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[mascrappo]

[quote="Cusser"]mascrappo - I just went out and took my combination square to my new EMPI Torque Tool, just as you did in your photos. Mine is significantly straighter than yours.

Thanks Cusser, you and Tim always to the rescue. Yes, yours is what it should be. Notice the gear head on mine is bent down due to the curved arm? This explains why mine won't mesh.

I zoomed in on various pics on web of this tool and all are straight.

I have contacted CIP and emailed pics.

[Tim Donahoe]

edited: I was looking at it ass backwards. You have the geared shaft on properly for the rear nut.

The crack in the casting is also troublesome, though, but that may not be a true crack.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[mascrappo]

[neil68]

[mascrappo]

New torque tool arrived today, notice how bent the first one arrived compared to new? This new tool looks like a different casting. I have not tried it yet due to cold weather, but looks promising. CIP1 took almost a month, but Tim sent me a new one! Will let you know how it works.[/img]

[mascrappo]

New torque tool works as it should, helps to cast straight I suppose. What a neat invention

[cajun_sun_bug]

Gents,
I hate to reopen this but just to confirm;

1974 Super Beetles require 253ft lbs NOT 217 ft lbs, Correct?

seems to be a LOT of confusion on the web, thanks!
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Regards,
Todd
1974 Super Beetle Sun Bug
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