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Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended?
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Paulbeard
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 6:28 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

$20? You know it takes 4 quarts, no? More like $60 for the gallon jug but still less than Swepco 201…

GL-4 or GL-5?
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 6:40 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

shagginwagon83 wrote:
I bought mine off Amazon - which maybe close to you Smile


I make a point of always buying local which in Seattle means amazon, costco, etc. Starbucks is local but no civic minded seattle resident ever shops there since their ceo gave away the Sonics. Very Happy
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Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.

Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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shagginwagon83
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 6:45 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

Paulbeard wrote:
$20? You know it takes 4 quarts, no? More like $60 for the gallon jug but still less than Swepco 201…

GL-4 or GL-5?


I was talking about the flush fluid. You don't need high quality flush fluid if you plan on running it for <500 miles.

Personally, run what you have for 100 miles. Drain it, depending on condition of magnet and old oil either

A. Run cheap $20 gallon of trans fluid for 500 miles. Then go to B
B. Run Redline and be done.

I really don't know much about this stuff honestly. But if I were in your shoes I'd go route A.
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"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
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Last edited by shagginwagon83 on Wed Mar 27, 2019 6:48 am; edited 1 time in total
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jimf909 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 6:47 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

Paulbeard wrote:
$20? You know it takes 4 quarts, no? More like $60 for the gallon jug but still less than Swepco 201…

GL-4 or GL-5?


It doesn't matter?
https://www.gowesty.com/tech-article-details.php?id=87

For the approx. 500 mile interval oil changes I'm doing I'm using 5 quarts of cheap GL 4/5 80/90 Valvoline gear oil at the FLAPS. A gallon jug and 1 qt bottle was $33.02.
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Abscate wrote:
Do not get killed, do not kill others.


Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.

Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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Paulbeard
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 7:26 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

That may be the way, then. Drain the Redline, run some cheap stuff, then refill with Redline and then check it after some reasonable interval.

Kinda surprised anyone would rebuild a trans without cleaning the case, etc. Why wants to work with grody stuff if they don't have to? How can you inspect stuff you haven't cleaned?
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Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs

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E1
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 7:42 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

Noting that we're discussing only a cleaning cycle, and that if any new parts need breaking in, that's done with Dino oil and not synthetic.
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davevickery
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:22 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

Paulbeard wrote:

Kinda surprised anyone would rebuild a trans without cleaning the case, etc. Why wants to work with grody stuff if they don't have to? How can you inspect stuff you haven't cleaned?

Was it in a van for a little while after being rebuilt?. Hard to imagine it wasn't cleaned somewhat on the outside. Maybe it was rebuilt 20,000 miles ago, it was still a good price. Even Daryl at AA (RIP) said he didnt waste time painting the case just to make it pretty, he preferred to spend the time on the insides where it matters. But I have to admit I like that my German Transaxle rebuilt from 10 plus years ago still has a nice coat of paint on it after many years.
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:43 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

The cost of gear lube is peanuts compared to the cost of repairing a damaged transmission.

With an unknown trans that has a dirty case and was supposedly just rebuilt, I would definitely do a couple quick oil changes until a baseline clean magnet is achieved. If concerned about the cost of those changes, then drain the lube into a clean container and settle it for use later as Sodo has outlined in one of their trans lube threads.
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E1
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:58 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

^^^
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 9:24 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

Paulbeard wrote:
Kinda surprised anyone would rebuild a trans without cleaning the case, etc. Why wants to work with grody stuff if they don't have to? How can you inspect stuff you haven't cleaned?


Cleaning and visual inspection, professional evaluation of the parts coming out is a large part of the labor. Inspection of any used parts going in, is significant.
Eliminating those tasks is how you "rebuild" a trans for $900
Inspection is done "by feel." You put it all together and "wobble" the parts by hand. Does it "feel right"? If yes, keep assembling.
In & out in a few hours.
It's a "rebuild" with "air quotes".
Customer is satisfied by the price, schedule, and if local there's no shipping.

Daryl of AA put a hand-ground pinion bearing in my trans. He took a USED bearing and ground it down to 'tighten it'. This saved AA about $100 in parts, and this was the kind of treatment I got, even though I was having terrible transaxle problems (4 rebuilds in 70,000 miles). It lasted a a few thousand miles. But I wasn't paying attention back then and drove it until is made noise (9,000 miles).

AA never honored any warranty with me even though I was an "AA fan" due to their Samba popularity. I recently bought an AA decoupler and it failed, they declined warranty because it was more than 2 years old.

Note that Redline, for example states on their website MT90 is not recommended for Hypoid gears. Redline (MT90) is a transmission oil - it's not the proper lubricant for the R&P (which a 'transaxle' has a hypoid R&P sharing the same transmission oil). A hypoid gear has a lot of "sliding".

This would be useful information to NOT choose Redline. If you don't even know if your 'fluid' is even clean, deciding between brands etc, and its hypoid suitability is not significant. It's like discussing what tire brand is the best, when you will run them at 15 psi.

Basically ANY GL4 or GL5 is fine for around town, lower power usage, not running full hot in Summer. GL4 and GL5 mean that the MFR has met "automotive standards" with their gear oil. You can run any GL4 or GL5 gear oil for the entire interval and of course it's fine for a flushing process.

If you have a big engine, and drive far, fast, heavy in the summer, HOT, could get longer transaxle life buying the better oils if you can afford to keep clean. A better quality oil can handle the high temperatures better, and run a longer change interval. But once it's contaminated, full of metal or dark, any clean $16 GL4 or GL5 is now better.

Choosing which specialty oil to run is more sensibly done AFTER your magnet indicates that your lubricant is "clean".

Keep in mind there are R&R costs that the rebuilder does not reimburse even if they DO honor a warranty. Curious how much current R&R costs are?
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb


Last edited by Sodo on Wed Mar 27, 2019 11:41 am; edited 2 times in total
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 9:35 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

Maybe someone will figure out a way to separate the transmission section from the diff, just like the 010 autos. Then you could run ATF in the former and gear oil in the latter.
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 9:53 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

1st gear is adjacent to the pinion bearing. There's no space for a seal to separate the two cavities.

That's like setting a special wheel alignment for longer tire life, while driving with tires under-inflated (due to inattention).

Simple "transaxle maintenance" is more likely to produce results. Most transaxles suffer non-maintenance because they were very well-made, designed tough enough to go 90,000 miles with no oil changes. Imagine how far they woulda run if someone changed the oil. This was a "lost opportunity" but here we are, wishing that the POs & soccer moms were looking out for us antiquers.

Maintenance rewards the owner, always has always will but ya gotta go under the van. Which some see as worse than transaxle trouble, prob cuz its seldom.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
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shagginwagon83
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 10:05 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

Sodo wrote:

Note that Redline, for example states on their website "not recommended for Hypoid gears". Redline is a transmission oil - it's not the proper lubricant for the R&P (which a 'transaxle' has a hypoid R&P sharing the same transmission oil). A hypoid gear has a lot of "sliding".

This would be useful information to NOT choose Redline. If you don't even know if your 'fluid' is even clean, deciding between brands etc, and its hypoid suitability is not significant. It's like discussing what tire brand is the best, when you will run them at 15 psi.

Basically ANY GL4 or GL5 is fine for around town, lower power usage, not running full hot in Summer.


Are you talking about the Redline MTL or MT-90?

This is what I used. I think its the same product GoWesty sells.

However, now I see a Redline GL-5 Non slip product on Redlines website. How does this sound below (link at bottom).

"NS means non-slip, for transaxles that need hypoid-protection and smooth shifting "

"Designed for transmissions and transaxles "

"MTL, MT-85 & MT-90 are not for use in differentials with hypoid gears "

https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-ns-gl-5-gear-oil


Edit: I know a lot of people DON'T recommend Redline. I just question if we're all talking about the same products. I just emailed redline asking for their recommendation (I think the website recommendation is wrong).
GoWesty recommends it for their transaxles. What is recommended for stock 1.9 and 2.1 engines? I feel swepco is needed for higher power applications.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 11:06 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

Yeah its the MT90 that I remember was the go-to gear oil. I don't follow oil brands anymore. Redline MUST have a hypoid gear oil.

But anyway once I found out (by super-filtering) that there's lots of metal in the oil of a "rebuilt" and started reading industry lubrication journals, realized that brands and types are rarely even mentioned _PLUS_ they rarely mention lubricant cleanliness.

Why, because it's unimportant? No, because its the most obvious first concern (lubricant contamination) and you MUST be looking for the next level of lubrication enhancement.

There is a hierarchy what produces "results" and if you want results, ya gotta take care of the more important issues first, and it's not something you can read on a bottle label.

Kinda like choosing the top tire brands, raised white letters and side-wall blackening, reading the year of manufacture etc, while never checking the tire's inflation.
_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb


Last edited by Sodo on Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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E1
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 11:19 am    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

Sodo, Thank You for your candor about AA, that is not okay and I appreciate knowing this.

I'm another who wants to use Redline -- great oils, and they heavily support our racing comrades -- but am on the side of thinking the MT90 inappropriate for our specific application. Too much noise to the contrary, from way too many sources. Not to mention I want a heavier oil like 75-140, cheap insurance just like 15/50 and the Castrol 20/50 I've run for a million miles in street cars with never a single engine oiling or wear issue.

I realize GW recommends it, but even if they learned it wasn't right it'd be a PR disaster to admit that. After becoming a fan of using a quart of Lucas oil treatment in with my 15/50 Mobil 1 in the engine (STOPS valve lifter noise on startup like nothing I've tried), I now wonder about adding a quart of their gear oil to the transaxle next change (I like doing that every 10,000 miles tops).

Anyone used Lucas in the gearbox?


Sodo, you'll be pleased to know whenever we do a rebuild, a temp sensor will be installed, too. Can't think of a better way to see stress, when stressed.
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Paulbeard
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2019 6:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

?Waldo? wrote:
The cost of gear lube is peanuts compared to the cost of repairing a damaged transmission.

With an unknown trans that has a dirty case and was supposedly just rebuilt, I would definitely do a couple quick oil changes until a baseline clean magnet is achieved. If concerned about the cost of those changes, then drain the lube into a clean container and settle it for use later as Sodo has outlined in one of their trans lube threads.


The cost is not the issue, but I knew it was more $20/that i needed more than a quart. My local FLAPS has a selection of 75/90 weight lubes, I can do the drain and fill this weekend prior to my proposed shakedown cruise next week. Then a 500 mile drain and fill with something better. I expect my guy used Redline because he buys it by the barrel. I'll consider the drain and settle as well. Anyone want the low mileage Swepco 201 from the old trans while I still have it? If it has 2000 miles I would be surprised.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 4:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

Well, I am glad I took y'all's advice and dropped the oil from the new/rebuilt trans I just had installed.

Peep this:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


That's after 20 miles or so. The pan was sparkly on the bottom as well. Not great. But I'm glad to get that out of there. I'll do another dump and fill after 500 miles, at the latest.

I only got about 3 qts out but replaced it with a full gallon. Not sure if I should have seen a full gallon out or how much I should have gotten. But there is a gallon of FLAPS's best 75-90 in there for the flush cycle.
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 5:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

Can you get a good shot of the big piece cleaned off? Maybe someone can identify it.
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Paulbeard
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 5:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

?Waldo? wrote:
Can you get a good shot of the big piece cleaned off? Maybe someone can identify it.


I didn't think to keep it… Embarassed

My hope is that it's not from this build, that it's some old trash from wherever this came from. Not a great option either, I realize…
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Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 9:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Shop says I need a new transmission: what's recommended? Reply with quote

Paulbeard wrote:
Well, I am glad I took y'all's advice and dropped the oil from the new/rebuilt trans I just had installed.

Peep this:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




Goodness, that's worse than mine at 500 miles (from the same rebuilder).

Such a disappointment but Sodo isn't the only one who has warned us about this rebuilder (this is not AA).
_________________
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Abscate wrote:
Do not get killed, do not kill others.


Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.

Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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