Fuel Delivery system of choice?

[Grateful Bus]

I am about to be building a new motor for my VW Bus, As i want it to perform well and last years to come. what is the most prefered fuel delivery method and what are the advantages of it? I am only posting options that are realistic in part availability to the time of this posting!

Thanks for your time SAMBA community
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Vw For Life!! 1972 T2 Custom Deluxe/ Westfalia Weekender Conversion

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9052832#9052832

[skills@eurocarsplus]

anything OBD2....

carbs will be the easiest in the long run, unless bosch steps up for the LJET crowd...

I remember a few years back when bosch dropped the TS2's and people lost their fucking minds....

having said that...anything can work with enough money. the biggest problem with LJET is most people refuse to spend what it takes to make it right...
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[Grateful Bus]

Im personally leaning towards the L-Jetronic, but my hold back is im new to bus/ Vw aircooled motors in general. I have mechanical knowledge and no problem working the bus, Just want the best performance and longevity of my bus motor! As i plan on pulling a small boat time to time, and travelling across the country so i want reliability not a bunch of maintenance although i have no issues with doing the maintenance. just want it to be convenient and reliable!
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Vw For Life!! 1972 T2 Custom Deluxe/ Westfalia Weekender Conversion

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9052832#9052832

[SGKent]

the bus appears to be a 1972. It came with dual carbs if it was in North America. If it is a later engine and the prior owner upgraded it, it could be FI now. Or if the prior owner downgraded it, or it is European bay then it could be a type 1 motor. What you decide on in part is going to depend on what type engine you have, what is on it now, and what condition those parts are in. The depth of your pockets may also dictate what you decide on in the end too. My 1977 is FI and would not change it to carb(s). I spent a good many years tinkering with and replacing carbs when they wore out. Would not go back to that again if I could avoid it. As a matter of fact the carb on my edger has been given me fits. The float stuck in the up position and it would not run, so I rebuilt it and a day later the new needle seat was defective and bled gasoline all over the shed floor making a nice little 10 stick dynamite bomb that had to be defused before it destroyed two homes. Single progressives have fuel vaporization issues, and there are many threads here from folks who had trouble with new dual carb castings. Figure out what you have now before going any further.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Xevin]

Yes Steve. The bus is a 72. GF bus, what’s your timeline, budget, free time looking like before you embark on this journey with a boat in tow? Does this bus currently run. Can’t remember from all your post if it does and how it’s currently set up. Maybe reel back the “Polls” and start one build thread to keep it all together. Appreciate your enthusiasm.
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Keep on Busin'

[Grateful Bus]

Ya i believe I have narrowed down what i'd like ideally set up on the bus. I'm just trying to piece it all together. Also find more certainty in my build before I embark on this journey piecing together advice from everyone willing to pitch in their 2 cents! Since I will be towing a 1974 starcraft aluminum 14' kingfisher boat here and there, As well as do lots of travelling I feel having a fuel injected motor would be ideal for both reliability of towing?? and convenience of travel. What i'm tossed around with on the fuel injection is what all it truly needs to be done for it to work as intended! I don't want to cut corners, I want to make this a very solid reliable build. As i plan on using this bus for my daily transportation, and semi living in it to be able to afford more travels and see more of the world

I found a 1976 2.0 with most of if not a complete fuel injection system. The owner is not sure what all he has, I'm gonna go look at it this Saturday. from what i'm told the block is a complete long block in good rebuildable shape. Since that is the route im going id like to pair it with a 6 rib 091 trans for proper gearing for the torque of the 2.0 engine.

Originally was going to rebuild stock 1.7L and find a stock dual carb set up for it to keep stock originality of Bus. Upon disassembly of my engine I realized it is beyond anything but a good case, crankshaft and cam, as my pistons have all be detonated and look pinged to hell, right along with both heads. so bad that one head has a non existent exhaust valve, funny thing is engine was running when pulled so that really made me believe in a VWs the ability to last...... rest in piece 1.7L

Do i have the right idea?

I've built a lot of muscle cars. My first car was a 81 el camino I built between 2 el caminos and a few salvage yards when I was 15 has a 350 with an edelbrock high rise intake and edelbrock performer 600 cfm carb, built up the 350 turbo trans with different shifting weights, springs, added a clutch to all 3 gears and installed a stage 2 shift kit.

Lots of fun to drive but not near as fun as a Bus!!! I found out when I picked up my Bay Window Sunshine. Diving into the world of buses is a game changer, But i've wanted one before my camino so it feels like a dream come true being here putting this bus together with everyone on the SAMBA!!!! much love, and thanks to everyone of you kind folks!

Keep on Truckin'
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Vw For Life!! 1972 T2 Custom Deluxe/ Westfalia Weekender Conversion

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9052832#9052832

[skills@eurocarsplus]

steve...my point was you can fix a carb and make it run...

when the supply of good used AFM's is gone, good injectors are nowhere to be found then what?

I agree..FI is where it's at. 45 year old FI? meh....

I would go as far as doing a SDS/autronic and build my own. the parts to keep the FI going is going to be the issue.

good friend had a 71 MB in his shop. ecu was no good (this was d-jet) and 1 year only. found one for like 1500. the coolant temp sensor was 700...and the last one on the planet.

all told...there was almost 4k in parts that took forever to find...and stuff like the TPS is worn...but working. trigger points are 1500.00 for that car IF you can find them.

if you are going to keep one of these FI...buy anything and everything you can and keep it in a tote...
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[a1steaksauce]

[420GOAT]

having built muscle cars and trucks since i was a child, and having built about a handful of busses. id say 40 idf all the way. the fuelie system needs to be perfect to run, there is no room for error. i dont like that. this is a VW. not perfection.
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once you realize im not impressed we will get along just fine

[Tram]

[SGKent]

for towing with a bus I would go with water cooled. You really want 150 to 200 HP minimum to tow with. Your 14' boat might seem light but when you add an engine, trailer and accessories you will be at 1200 to 1500 lbs. You'll spend most of your time in 2nd and 3rd gear on any kind of grade if you go with less. Ask me how I know.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Tram]

[notchboy]

If you plan on restoring the bus, then keep everything as stock as possible. If you plan on making a custom road warrior and you are mechanically inclined - put in a Suby.


This is what he has now

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[Tram]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[Tram]

[airschooled]

Don’t ignore the fact that this site is like a hospital for sick Volkswagens. You can ask sick people and a few doctors what you need, or look outside the internet, where there are dozens of cars on the road (whose owners don’t post here) for every member on here.

If fuel injection wasn’t good, it wouldn’t be so popular. If carbs weren’t good, they wouldn’t be so popular. If you like troubleshooting based on intuition and observation, go with carbs. If you like troubleshooting with a flow chart and a multimeter, go FI. Beautiful carb setups require a wide band O2 gauge, a sync tool, and a selection of jets that aren’t cheap. FI setup requires following directions and a volt/ohm meter. Both require a fuel pressure gauge and quality parts from the get go.

It really comes down to what you want out of your bus, and what your strengths are as an owner/mechanic. If someone else is working on it, prepare your pocketbook and go with what they like.

See you on the road,
Robbie
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[ImAddicted]

[Tram]

[notchboy]