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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2019 10:25 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Right after the engine shuts down, if you remove the fuel line from the carb, there should be a bit of pressure being released, and if you remove the lid of the carb you should have maybe 1.25" of fuel in the bowl.
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SamboSamba22 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2019 12:12 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Right after the engine shuts down, if you remove the fuel line from the carb, there should be a bit of pressure being released, and if you remove the lid of the carb you should have maybe 1.25" of fuel in the bowl.


Paying a little closer attention, I can hear pressure pushing through the fuel line into the carb when the engine is turned off or dies. I just ordered a fuel pressure regulator to see if I can get it down to about 3psi.

I believe the float level is good, its just getting too much pressure for the seat inside the carb.
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[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2019 12:18 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

SamboSamba22 wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Right after the engine shuts down, if you remove the fuel line from the carb, there should be a bit of pressure being released, and if you remove the lid of the carb you should have maybe 1.25" of fuel in the bowl.


Paying a little closer attention, I can hear pressure pushing through the fuel line into the carb when the engine is turned off or dies. I just ordered a fuel pressure regulator to see if I can get it down to about 3psi.

I believe the float level is good, its just getting too much pressure for the seat inside the carb.

But if it runs better when you push the choke plate closed it's lean, you could have multiple issues with float height and fuel pressure, but it doesn't sound like it's flooding.
Did you lose the little green O rings under the head of the idle/slow jets when you had them out? What happens if you turn the idle mixture screw CCW 1/2 turn?
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SamboSamba22 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2019 1:23 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The discharge pump was missing the two grommets, added those and it helps. Was also missing the ball that goes inside the discharge pump.
Fuel level is about 3/4” in the float bowl.
Placing my hand over the carb throat (suffocating it) it picks up RPM’s.

Got it running better, not nothing much change with the idle/fuel mixer screw. Currently running about 1050RPM’s at 18* BTDC.

There are no grommets on the idle slow jets. What are these made of, rubber?
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[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2019 2:16 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Yes, or whatever the green stuff is, Viton perhaps?, sometimes they stick in the carb body, other times they stay on the jet, often they leap off when you are looking away.

3/4" of gas in the bowl is too low, look on Piercemanifolds.com or Redlineweber for a tutorial on float setting as well as a parts blow up showing all the O rings and balls.
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2019 5:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Okay, new stupid question time. I've just installed a degreed pulley on my 1600DP and the diameter is roughly 1 1/4" smaller than the stock pulley (that has no marks at all).

It used to have a 10 x 900 belt on it and now, naturally, needs a shorter one. I searched the forums a bit and didn't come up with a general guess as to how much shorter I should start looking for. Anyone have some idea where to start, lengthwise?
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2019 6:08 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

NorCalWeekender wrote:
Okay, new stupid question time. I've just installed a degreed pulley on my 1600DP and the diameter is roughly 1 1/4" smaller than the stock pulley (that has no marks at all).

It used to have a 10 x 900 belt on it and now, naturally, needs a shorter one. I searched the forums a bit and didn't come up with a general guess as to how much shorter I should start looking for. Anyone have some idea where to start, lengthwise?


Scratch that. Just figured out everything will be turning slower with a smaller pulley. A buddy says he's got some stock sized ones. Question solved.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2019 6:34 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

NorCalWeekender wrote:
NorCalWeekender wrote:
Okay, new stupid question time. I've just installed a degreed pulley on my 1600DP and the diameter is roughly 1 1/4" smaller than the stock pulley (that has no marks at all).

It used to have a 10 x 900 belt on it and now, naturally, needs a shorter one. I searched the forums a bit and didn't come up with a general guess as to how much shorter I should start looking for. Anyone have some idea where to start, lengthwise?


Scratch that. Just figured out everything will be turning slower with a smaller pulley. A buddy says he's got some stock sized ones. Question solved.

Good choice, tiny pulleys and buses don't mix well, the dual port stock pulley with the big D stamped into it is your best choice, unless you can find a degree pulley of similar bigness.
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2019 6:38 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
NorCalWeekender wrote:
NorCalWeekender wrote:
Okay, new stupid question time. I've just installed a degreed pulley on my 1600DP and the diameter is roughly 1 1/4" smaller than the stock pulley (that has no marks at all).

It used to have a 10 x 900 belt on it and now, naturally, needs a shorter one. I searched the forums a bit and didn't come up with a general guess as to how much shorter I should start looking for. Anyone have some idea where to start, lengthwise?


Scratch that. Just figured out everything will be turning slower with a smaller pulley. A buddy says he's got some stock sized ones. Question solved.



Good choice, tiny pulleys and buses don't mix well, the dual port stock pulley with the big D stamped into it is your best choice, unless you can find a degree pulley of similar bigness.


Friend says he's got a couple spare stock sized degree pulleys. Just waiting to confirm the size. At least I can get dizzy and valves set in the meantime.
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rustbus
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 3:16 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

stupid question, the nose cone and bellhousing gaskets are the same for all baywindow bus transmissions, yeah?
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 3:26 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

rustbus wrote:
stupid question, the nose cone and bellhousing gaskets are the same for all baywindow bus transmissions, yeah?


Nose Cone gasket - Yes.

There is a difference with the mating surfaces of the 1968 3-rib bell housing to later model transmissions. It is slightly smaller in the mid-section near the dowels on each side. But, I do believe a gasket for the 1969 and later models would fit the 68. Otherwise, from 1969 thru 1991 are all the same fit.

See in this link ..

https://weddleindustries.com/products/1000199/1000921
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2019 6:34 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Big stupid question: I recall, back in the day, taking in my Beetle for a rebuilt engine and it was about 15 hundred bucks. What would a rebuilt, installed, run for a '71 bus these days? Thanks in advance.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2019 6:41 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Last engine I had built was a smidge over two grand, but I supplied the tin and some parts off my old engine. Your financial mileage may vary.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2019 7:00 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks. Yes, I'm just talking about engine swap and providing the rest of the parts.
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oshima
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2019 8:43 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Does the Aux Air Regulator need to be bolted to the engine in order to heat up, or does the dual filament on the inside receive most of its heat from the 12v connector?
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2019 9:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

oshima wrote:
Does the Aux Air Regulator need to be bolted to the engine in order to heat up, or does the dual filament on the inside receive most of its heat from the 12v connector?


It’s grounded through the ECU according to the wiring diagram, so it shouldn’t hurt it to dangle. Just make sure the wire still aren’t going to bind or chafe on anything, and make sure it won’t be able to give the hoses a slip when you hit a pothole. I’ve done it once when the aftermarket hoses weren’t formed correctly. Luckily they mount well with the GeeBee hoses, or a piece of 1/2” heater hose from flaps.

See you on the road,
Robbie
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2019 9:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

oshima wrote:
Does the Aux Air Regulator need to be bolted to the engine in order to heat up, or does the dual filament on the inside receive most of its heat from the 12v connector?


I would say that it is probably 90%+ dependent on the 12v supply.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 5:44 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Still trying to figure out how carbs work and am now wondering about idle cut off circuits. My carbs have them but it seems as though the replacement part is a simple jet without the solenoid, what is the difference between the solenoid version and the simple replacements? What benefit is the solenoid?

Following up to that question the cutoffs are marked 52.5 and the simple replacements are (apparently) sold as either 50 or 55 .. so if I'm understanding things correctly if I replace the 52.5 with 55's I'll be enriching my idle mixture, causing my idle to increase and I will have to turn in the volume screws to bring it down to 900rpm again...I think ... I hope..
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 7:36 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
SamboSamba22 wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Right after the engine shuts down, if you remove the fuel line from the carb, there should be a bit of pressure being released, and if you remove the lid of the carb you should have maybe 1.25" of fuel in the bowl.


Paying a little closer attention, I can hear pressure pushing through the fuel line into the carb when the engine is turned off or dies. I just ordered a fuel pressure regulator to see if I can get it down to about 3psi.

I believe the float level is good, its just getting too much pressure for the seat inside the carb.

But if it runs better when you push the choke plate closed it's lean, you could have multiple issues with float height and fuel pressure, but it doesn't sound like it's flooding.
Did you lose the little green O rings under the head of the idle/slow jets when you had them out? What happens if you turn the idle mixture screw CCW 1/2 turn?


Update

So I had an EMPI Weber knockoff 32/36 that came with a Vanagon I bought, and it being obviously new, I rebuilt it and plopped it onto the bus. I noted that the idle jets were 50 and 55, whereas the other carb was 47 and 50. I also believe the accelerator pump bushing was worn out on the original Weber.

I know have a consistent running and idling bus, though the idle is a bit low (680) I plan on bumping that up today.
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Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 6:33 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

a-marshal wrote:
Still trying to figure out how carbs work and am now wondering about idle cut off circuits. My carbs have them but it seems as though the replacement part is a simple jet without the solenoid, what is the difference between the solenoid version and the simple replacements? What benefit is the solenoid?

Following up to that question the cutoffs are marked 52.5 and the simple replacements are (apparently) sold as either 50 or 55 .. so if I'm understanding things correctly if I replace the 52.5 with 55's I'll be enriching my idle mixture, causing my idle to increase and I will have to turn in the volume screws to bring it down to 900rpm again...I think ... I hope..

The electric cutoff prevents run on if you have some glowing carbon in a cylinder that continues combustion after you turn off the key, you can stall it with the clutch if it happens.
A 2.5 idle jet increase won't effect much, it mat even improve how it behaves with modern gas. You may have to adjust the idle mixture screws slightly to compensate.
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