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The Stupid Question Thread
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 6:33 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

a-marshal wrote:
Still trying to figure out how carbs work and am now wondering about idle cut off circuits. My carbs have them but it seems as though the replacement part is a simple jet without the solenoid, what is the difference between the solenoid version and the simple replacements? What benefit is the solenoid?

Following up to that question the cutoffs are marked 52.5 and the simple replacements are (apparently) sold as either 50 or 55 .. so if I'm understanding things correctly if I replace the 52.5 with 55's I'll be enriching my idle mixture, causing my idle to increase and I will have to turn in the volume screws to bring it down to 900rpm again...I think ... I hope..

The electric cutoff prevents run on if you have some glowing carbon in a cylinder that continues combustion after you turn off the key, you can stall it with the clutch if it happens.
A 2.5 idle jet increase won't effect much, it mat even improve how it behaves with modern gas. You may have to adjust the idle mixture screws slightly to compensate.
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 10:34 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

So my bus has a few parts that have been painted over (shore power inlet, Volkswagen script on the back, etc) at least once (if not three times).

What's the best thing to get that paint off with these days? Easy-Off? Grafitti remover? Just sandblast the crap out of it?

Cheers, folks!
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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 10:44 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

NorCalWeekender wrote:
So my bus has a few parts that have been painted over (shore power inlet, Volkswagen script on the back, etc) at least once (if not three times).

What's the best thing to get that paint off with these days? Easy-Off? Grafitti remover? Just sandblast the crap out of it?

Cheers, folks!


If you have access to a media blaster then I'd go that route. I like to use glass beads because it leaves the metal smooth and makes for a great base for a primer or for powder coating.
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 10:48 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

ivwshane wrote:
NorCalWeekender wrote:
So my bus has a few parts that have been painted over (shore power inlet, Volkswagen script on the back, etc) at least once (if not three times).

What's the best thing to get that paint off with these days? Easy-Off? Grafitti remover? Just sandblast the crap out of it?

Cheers, folks!


If you have access to a media blaster then I'd go that route. I like to use glass beads because it leaves the metal smooth and makes for a great base for a primer or for powder coating.


I've a friend who has one, but not sure what media he's got in it.
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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 12:55 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Anyone install LED turn signals in a late bay have any trouble with them? I've installed the no load relay as well.

When i don't have my running or head lights on, they work fine.

When I turn on my running or head lights the front turn signals won't flash.

The rear turn signals work fine in both scenarios.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 1:06 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Manfreds78bay wrote:
Anyone install LED turn signals in a late bay have any trouble with them? I've installed the no load relay as well.

When i don't have my running or head lights on, they work fine.

When I turn on my running or head lights the front turn signals won't flash.

The rear turn signals work fine in both scenarios.


Sounds like a ground issue to me.
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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 1:22 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Manfreds78bay wrote:
Anyone install LED turn signals in a late bay have any trouble with them? I've installed the no load relay as well.

When i don't have my running or head lights on, they work fine.

When I turn on my running or head lights the front turn signals won't flash.

The rear turn signals work fine in both scenarios.


Sounds like a ground issue to me.


I replaced my turn signal housing on both sides. They worked as described with the old and the new housings. I'm not sure where the ground issue would be.

However, I do think the issue has more to do when the running lights are turned on. They share a ground. I may need to run separate grounds for each light.
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 1:40 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Manfreds78bay wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Manfreds78bay wrote:
Anyone install LED turn signals in a late bay have any trouble with them? I've installed the no load relay as well.

When i don't have my running or head lights on, they work fine.

When I turn on my running or head lights the front turn signals won't flash.

The rear turn signals work fine in both scenarios.


Sounds like a ground issue to me.


I replaced my turn signal housing on both sides. They worked as described with the old and the new housings. I'm not sure where the ground issue would be.

However, I do think the issue has more to do when the running lights are turned on. They share a ground. I may need to run separate grounds for each light.


It wouldn't hurt.
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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 10:57 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Anyone have a source or find something very similar to the late bay helsinki hinge that props the stove/sink lid open?
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notchboy
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 11:36 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Manfreds78bay wrote:
Anyone have a source or find something very similar to the late bay helsinki hinge that props the stove/sink lid open?


You mean Berlin? You have a Berlin floor plan. I have a set of the real hinges I could sell you for the cooker/sink.
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OK, this thread is over. You win.

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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 11:38 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

notchboy wrote:
Manfreds78bay wrote:
Anyone have a source or find something very similar to the late bay helsinki hinge that props the stove/sink lid open?


You mean Berlin? You have a Berlin floor plan. I have a set of the real hinges I could sell you for the cooker/sink.


PM sent
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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 1:13 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Got another stupid question. Who is a good source for access hatches? My PO hacked up the area over the gas tank sender. I've looked at jegs, amazon, etc and I can only find gas tank access hatches. I need something that is square.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 1:49 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Manfreds78bay wrote:
Got another stupid question. Who is a good source for access hatches? My PO hacked up the area over the gas tank sender. I've looked at jegs, amazon, etc and I can only find gas tank access hatches. I need something that is square.


https://www.amazon.com/Dumble-Profile-Electric-Cab...amp;sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=access+hatch&i=automotive&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Access-Panel-Sheet...mp;sr=1-24
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OK, this thread is over. You win.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 3:45 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Anyone have leads or information on the proper jet sizes to get a Weber 32/36 running nicely (to the best it can for a single carb) on a 75 type 4 engine?

Currently running 50 and 55 idle jets. Air/fuel mixture screw doesn't seem to do much.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 6:07 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

SamboSamba22 wrote:
Anyone have leads or information on the proper jet sizes to get a Weber 32/36 running nicely (to the best it can for a single carb) on a 75 type 4 engine?

Currently running 50 and 55 idle jets. Air/fuel mixture screw doesn't seem to do much.

Settle in for a long read: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=217070&highlight=suck
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2019 3:18 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Okay 002 Transmission Experts, I need some help.

I've disassembled three 3-rib transmissions, all late models (post-71/72).

Two of those transmissions had a rather thick shim (really a washer) behind the retaining nut on the Pinion Bearing (talking pinion & ring gear side of the case). One transmission never had this thick shim/washer.

The Bentley is not really clear on this. I know on the other side (gears side) there is a shim which is generally fairly thin and thickness depends on adjusting, etc.

Thoughts?

Edit: found the answer at Weddle's website..

Tech Tip: Around 1971 or 1972, VW started using a washer under the large pinion bearing retainer nut in Type 1 and Type 2 transaxles. This required a slight change to the design of the main case (to accommodate the 2mm thick washer). If you are not sure which type of case you have, you can use calipers to measure the thickness of the case at the pinion bearing bore. If the thickness is approximately 22.2mm (.875") a washer is required. If it is approximately 24.2mm (.950") a washer should not be used.
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Last edited by AndyBees on Sat Apr 27, 2019 5:58 pm; edited 1 time in total
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2019 5:11 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Does anyone have a picture or diagram on how this light is wired. My gut says something isn't wired right because doesn't the lens have two switches on it? I need to source that lens.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2019 6:34 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

NorCalWeekender wrote:


Does anyone have a picture or diagram on how this light is wired. My gut says something isn't wired right because doesn't the lens have two switches on it? I need to source that lens.


The cover should have 2 switches on it. 1 operates the outer 2 bulbs, and the other operates the middle bulb. Once you get the lens it should make sense. If you can find one!
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2019 6:36 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

CanStan wrote:
NorCalWeekender wrote:


Does anyone have a picture or diagram on how this light is wired. My gut says something isn't wired right because doesn't the lens have two switches on it? I need to source that lens.


The cover should have 2 switches on it. 1 operates the outer 2 bulbs, and the other operates the middle bulb. Once you get the lens it should make sense. If you can find one!


There are a few in the classifieds, but not as many with the switches.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2019 6:53 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hello.

Does it work when you use the dome switch on the dash?
There is one that showed up today in the classifieds, it looks complete: fixture and lens, with both push buttons. Only $35


Last edited by Angus II on Sat Apr 27, 2019 7:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
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