Shift rod bushing question

[hiwaycallin]

Does this ...

Go in here ... ?

[airschooled]

Yep. The cleaner the shift rod and bushing holster are, the longer the bushing will last (so clean well!) SuperLube makes a clear grease that works really well on those. New bushings on the market don’t seem to last very long in the presence of petroleum-based grease, though it’s better than nothing.

I bet the shifter handle ball and socket could use a good cleaning too.

Robbie
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[hiwaycallin]

Thanks for the tips! I guess I will need to take apart the coupler that's a little ways down the shift rod to install this, right?

[airschooled]

[hiwaycallin]

That all went perfectly smoothly. Thanks again for all the tips. As for the remaining bushings in the kit, are these all for when the transmission is out? Mine's a '78 btw.

[airschooled]

The two on the left are the central bushings for when the transaxle is out.

Then comes the late bug bushing followed by the early bay bushing. The black one on the right? No idea.
Robbie
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[aerosurfer]

[SGKent]

the originals usually work better than the aftermarket replacements on those central shuttlecocks.
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[wcfvw69]

[malcolm2]

I know... late to the party, but help me out here. Ratwell says the spring ring goes on the front of the rear shaft. Bentley has a picture on page 10 of the trans section. the spring ring is close to the front bushing and on the wrong side of the back bushing.

This pic has the spring on the rear bushing. My kit has 2 nubs on the rear bushing, my shaft has 2 holes in the rear, and the kit's bushing has a trough for the ring on the two nub bushing.

1. I am gonna put the ring on the rear.

2. what is the deal with this part. I see some non-USA websites with what looks like quality stuff. But I got crap from a USA vendor. Stuff doesn't look like it will last 20K miles. Nothing comes up as USA when searching with the part #, why?

[SGKent]

the repop shuttlecocks are all junk in my opinion. If the originals are still good use them instead. We all get the same junk no matter who ships it. I have not seen nos shuttlecocks for sale anywhere.

SK
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[malcolm2]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

I have had good luck with WW. you'll for sure need to clean the casting flash off. I use the original C clip/spring.

I bought some NOS ones from bug city. not sure if he has any left
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[Busstom]

[malcolm2]

I think the picture I included is correct. I am getting all confused now.

my problem is where the spring goes. The factory made it where you can't screw up on where the bushing goes. one has one nub and one has 2 nubs. The locations in the rod are set with 1 hole and 2 holes. So unless you cut off a nub, I can't screw that up.... I HOPE.

And I want high quality parts. At least decent parts. Especially if I have to pull the engine to put more crappy parts on. I am not going to plan on removing the engine every other year.
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[Busstom]

[malcolm2]

is this part of the Cheapo Bushing situation?

I installed the bushings and the rear bellows. Greased them up and inserted the shaft. the shaft stopped at the RED line of the rear bushing. I pushed and pushed and the damn shaft moved in but the bushing did not. The Nubs came out of the holes.

So what is next? How do I get the rear bushing to stay in the holes of the shaft and go in the tube?

I need atleast 7" to meet up with the front shaft.

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[Busstom]

It's binding due to the outwardly expanded condition of the spring, and it may be exacerbated by some minor tolerance issues with the bushing itself. It is designed to compress quite a bit when you insert the rod/bushing into the tube so that it maintains tension within the tube over its lifespan. Because of this, it's a good idea to lube the inside of the spring groove and reinsert the spring afterwards, this will help reduce the friction of the bushing as it compresses diametrically around the spring.

Did you do a trial fitment of the bushing by itself before clipping it onto the shift rod? Try that, inserting it into the tube backwards, with the open leaves going in first, this way you can grip the small smooth diameter with your fingers and reciprocate it in and out a bit in the tube (don't push too far and lose your grip). By doing this, you can see how much compression is required to actually get it past that spring point, and how much drag the spring actually puts on the rod (it needs to be draggy).

Based on your description, you just never made it past the compression stage, and it bound up and pushing on the rod overcame the grip of the nubs...I'm sure the pulling effect you created on the bushing by pushing on the rod just stressed it and it expanded the sleeve portion of the bushing and it popped off. So, somehow, you're going to have to come up with a way to compress the spring ring enough to get past that point, and once it's in, it's in, you'll have all the inches you need.

Maybe try wrapping a zip-tie tightly around the sleeve over the nubs to help hold it together, if you need to, I'm just trying to think outside the box.

[malcolm2]

Thanks.
I also thought of a zip tie. My 1st thought was on the spring. I figured as it went in the tie would pop off and stay out of the tube where i could cut it off.

2nd thought was on the nubs. But it would have to stay on. Do you see a problem with a zip tie remaining wrapped and tied? It seems the tie would not touch the tube. But i feel like the tie-lock could touch and be a potential issue.


Now that i have 2 problems i might have to tie both places

Thoughts?
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[Busstom]

You can't (and shouldn't) try to zip-tie the spring, it has to remain unfettered so that it can function as designed. The only place you should zip-tie is around the nub portion of the bushing. I really think you should try again, and rotate the shift rod when passing the spring through the opening, and massage it into place (after a bare trial fit). If that doesn't work, perhaps a hose clamp temporarily to compress it a bit where it passes through the end of the tube, then remove it, but you shouldn't have to go to that extent, it should compress with fingertip pressure.

By the way, I don't think you have two problems, I think you just need to secure the part of the bushing around the nubs, especially since it seems a little bit weakened from straining and popping apart once already.

And also, no, as long as you can get the "buckle" portion of the zip-tie past the I.D. of the tube, and it all fits inside, there won't be a problem with the zip-tie spending the rest of its life inside of that tube.