Clutch master cylinder replacement

[epowell]

[epowell]

[Dampcamper]

[dobryan]

When I bleed the clutch system I do not pump the pedal like when bleeding brakes. I have my helper push the clutch pedal to the floor once and hold it, then I loosen the bleeder on top of the slave and let the fluid/air out, close the bleeder and repeat....
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[epowell]

Anyhow, thanks ALL for all of this help > I guess I now understand the process and procedure... pretty easy. The most difficult part by far was threading the 12mm fluid line into the master. It was also tough to get that rubber supply line off - I didn't want to damage it... but had to reef on it like crazy and ended up pulling the plastic nipple right out of the old MC. Then put vice grips on the old nipple base and twisted the rubber line off.
Next I connected the new MC to the rubber line, then inserted the plunger and pushed the MC as far up as possible > then gently threaded the 12mm fluid line nut into the MC. This took a long time because I was determined not to force it and risk stripping anything... finally got it on, then put on the 2 13mm bolts...

The slave installation was uneventful because over the last month I have spent countless hours pissing around with this and finally honed my own way of doing it - now it's easy

- - -

On the test drive I noticed right away when reversing out of my parking pad, the clutch now grabs way earlier or faster.

The very first shift into 2nd was a gentle "plunk" rather than the "THUNK" I've been experiencing... the next shift into 2nd after everything warmed up, was smooth as a baby's ass... subsequent shifts into 2nd were smooth or gentle plunking... nothing really bad, but of course it could be better.
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www.edwardpowell.com

[jstr]

Just replaced mine. I got in the van one day and the pedal mysteriously went to floor.

Ordered one from Bus Depot for 44.95. http://www.busdepot.com/251611021cor

Make sure to "bleed" it ( I installed it, filled the reservoir with fluid, and "cracked open" each line going into the MC while depressing the pedal all the way ( with rags underneath to catch the fluid ). I tried to bleed each wheel first before doing this, and the pedal still went to floor.

[DanHoug]

just did the clutch master on my 87. i'd experienced one instance of having to pump the pedal like a madman to get clutch action on a chilly, -25F morning a couple years ago but have had The Drip ever since. got sick of topping off the reservoir and wet carpet and changed it out after this morning's coffee (Tanzanian taken to second crack). not a bad job, even for an old fart. 2 bolts, a banjo fitting, and a hose. clutch pedal was tight enough so i didn't tackle the pivot.

i've always had an extremely light clutch pedal, i attribute this to moly lube on the clutch shaft splines and happy clutch arm bushings, but the new master made things even more easy. i wasn't sure at first i had all the air out it was so easy to push with my hand but driving confirms all is well.

used an FTE cylinder but added a bit of this lube to the bore by depressing the plunger and wiping some on the cylinder. it always makes piston seals slide so well.

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-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[FarmerAndy]

I found this thread to be quite informative - Thanks each/all of you for your input.
After having some dire shifting issues, I found a leaking slave cylinder was the culprit so I replaced that + the Master clutch cylinder as well (since I had it all taken apart anyway).
After getting everything all buttoned up, I experienced some concerning valve knock upon startup. It eventually subsided after a thorough engine warm-up, but I was worried there for a bit. Subsequent start-ups and driving around yielded no more valve knock but this got me wondering...
Since the valves are hydraulic and the clutch system is also hydraulic, could the valve knock be related?
This is an '84 Westy with wc1.9 engine.
Thanks for any insight on this.

[E1]

I do not think they’re related.

If you’re describing valve clatter on startup, it will or should subside in a minute or two and/or once driving. The lifters are hydraulic and need to be “pumped up” with pressure to fully rebound properly.

Of some contention here but not with me, I’ve had tremendous luck on prior, clattery engines with a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer in the oil. Stupendous difference in clatter.
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‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[MarkWard]

How long was the van off the road? Valve lifters can bleed down from sitting to long. VW had a bulletin that said 15 mins of driving should pump them back up. Definitely no relation between the clutch hydraulics and the valve train hydraulics.
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☮️

[E1]

I’ve long pondered what the actual sound is, Mark…

Is it the pushrod going further into the lifter so much that the valve heads are excessively contacting the head?

Though this phenomenon has been written off as “normal,” it seems to me it could be, and likely is over time, damaging.
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‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[FarmerAndy]

Thanks for your responses - the van was off the road for 9 days whilst getting the new CMC and CSC replaced so perhaps, yes, the lifters just needed to get pumped back up after sitting for awhile.
We did a test road trip yesterday - 3+ hours in the mountains of North GA - and the engine purred like normal so I'm pleased now. Also, she shifted smoothly thanks to the new cylinder(s) installs. Onward!

[E1]

SWEET!
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‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman