67 Sunroof Engine Build

[67 Sunroof]

So this will be my first official engine build thread. My bug has the chassis complete. I’ve pulled it off the pan and everything has been gone through. Front/Rear airbags suspension is on and working properly too. Wolfsburg West has received my paychecks from the past 2 years with all the new rubber seals and whatnot. I was near the end of my build and had the stock motor started and running with some frd34’s. It was running really well. I decided to drain the oil, check the valves, and put some fresh oil back in. That’s when the trouble started. I noticed the #3 valve wouldn’t adjust properly and found out the seat was beginning to sink in. Crap.
Pulled the motor back out and while I had the heads on figured I would check the head bolt torque. 2 started pulling out of the case. Well shit....
So I’ve been researching rebuild choices and have decided on a 1776 build.
I will attempt to document my FIRST engine build and be asking LOTS of questions and many will be dumb so please bear with me!!
I’ve been a member here for many years and have learned a lot of valuable information from you guys/gals and I DO appreciate it.
My goal is to build a reliable and decent gas mileage engine. I also wanted a bit more pep over the stocker.
To start, I had 2 full AE case motors. I broke both down looking for any obvious issues from the previous owners and checked the cases for cracks. To me they looked ok.
I took both to Sean Dowdle (previous Peek Performance owner) for case inspection. He replied back a few days later telling me both cases were useable. One needed to be align bored .020, and the other .040.
The better case I wound up using...
He welded behind the #3, full flowed it, installed all new case savers, and I decided to have him cut the case for 90.5 cylinders for a 1776 build.
Here are a few photos:

Getting my tools together:

So I’ve picked up both cases. Apparently one of the cases was used in a bus? Someone on here told me because of the way the case was made. I thought they were all the same. Pictures below:

I’ve read about the oil galleries and how important it is to clean them on a full rebuild. I’ve pulled the plugs from most of the galleries and tapped them. I was going to use the aluminum plugs but learned it’s impossible to remove them once they are in. I’ve decided to use steel ones instead IN CASE this has to come back apart one day.
Motor BEFORE I realized the heads seats were bad and headstuds pulling out. Beginner lesson learned-don’t put the motor in until you are sure everything is good to go:(

Shopping list. I wound up deleting the jet doctors, dowel pins, and not too sure of the serpentine system yet. I purchased a welded, balanced fan and some nice R2C brand air filters. I also purchased a pair of Dellorto drla 40’s and an A1 sidewinder header/exhaust in 1 1/2”.
Head choice might be Tim’s super stockers??

[Dan Ruddock]

I suspect you are going to reuse your 10mm head studs? If yes, I recommend a Dakota digital head temp gauge. If the heads get too hot you risk cracking the case behind #3 regardless of the welded plate behind it. OEM VW 8mm head studs are the true fix of this problem. Don't loc-tite the galley plugs or you will strip out the soft aluminum allen socket when they are removed again. Just use Honda bond. I use steel ones without problems.

Dan

[67 Sunroof]

Thanks Dan. I’ve read MANY of your posts in the past and appreciate any suggestions/help that you can give me. I’ve already purchased about $3,000 worth of things (based on reading threads and do’s and dont’s)
I understand that everyone has an opinion on building motors and there are many keyboard jockeys out there.
I just want to do the best I can with the knowledge I’ve gained from The Samba and, hopefully, not make any huge mistakes that can’t be corrected!

[Dan Ruddock]

The best advice I can give is use my opinions. I never lock myself to a position but carefully analyze something that differs from my previous conclusions. Yes there are a lot of differing opinions out there. Look a my picture gallery, the products I sell and contact me even by phone if you want. Dan

[stevemariott]

Good looking car, I look forward to your engine build.

Not trying to be too negative, but the Super Race Rods are a bit overkill for your cam / combo - Uni-Techs would be sufficient.
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1963 Manx copy
1968 Bus

[67 Sunroof]

[67 Sunroof]

[[email protected]]

[Dan Ruddock]

Many but not all of my opinions come from these two giants that are no longer with us.

http://www.geneberg.com/index.php

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482095&highlight=hugo

[theDrew]

why do you need two sets of rods?
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Turbo 2276 MS3X build http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=673125
1985 Vanagon Campmobile w/ 2005 EJ25

[stevemariott]

They are good looking rods! Peace of mind is a nice thing to have. Balancing is always a good idea. Mahle forged pistons were considerably cheaper maybe 15 or so years ago, and were the standard. Now one really pays the difference for quality over the cheaper and more commonplace 90.5s.

[67 Sunroof]

[67 Sunroof]

[Dan Ruddock]

[jpaull]

[jpaull]

67 sunroof, you got the H-beams, now a 74 crank drops in.... oh the temptation...... same price 69 vs 74........ but how some extra ccs would be so terrible

[Brian_e]

Yep, just go for the 74mm now since you are getting the fancy rods. 1904cc with really good 37x32 heads will make a great runner. I would go for a web 163 myself.

Brian

[Dan Ruddock]

[clonebug]

A set of AA P/C's would save you over $200.00. Those Mahle's are complete overkill for a simple "mileage" engine.
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[67 Sunroof]