Removing broken studs & the ez-out conspiracy, epic

[modok]

Not sure I yet mentioned this one. This one is really secret, so secret I didn't remember I knew it.

to get more grip on a flathead screwdriver, i put a dab of red locktite on the tip, then dip that in fine abrasive powder, then hit it with the torch lightly to cure the loctite quick.

Just earned me another 40 bucks. Friend asked "how did you know to do that?" I don't know. Maybe my father taught me that one.

probably works on more than just screwdrivers

If I mentioned it before, sorry, but maybe I didn't. I don't remember much

NEW locktite related trick
When using 518 sealant, red threadlocker, or green goop(sleeve retaining compound)
on stainless, aluminum, primer is needed according to instructions. It needs to be on fresh metal to cure but stainless or aluminum the surface is oxide and it won't cure.
I have mentioned before scuffing the surface with scotchbrite or abrasive paper lightly before applying will speed cure and not require primer.
TINY stainless screws ect, you can't sand it.
NEW idea, use fine brass wire brush. The microscopic streaks of copper left on surface will act as primer. I try this, it WORKS. Loctite FOR ALL!

[RolandD]

please forgive me if this has been previously mentioned. It will be hard to explain.

On an exhaust stud, for example, start with a thick plate of steel and make a slot for the good stud, and drill and tap 3/4" fine hole for the broken stud. Take a 3/4" fine bolt and drill it on the lathe with the tap drill of the broken stud thread. Bolt the plate firmly up to the head with the good stud. Thread in the 3/4" bolt and drill to dimple the end of the broken stud. Remove the 3/4" bolt and view if you are centered. Adjust accordingly. Dimple again. When centered, drill out the stud and remove the remains like a helicoil insert.

The above works well on C-12 Cat motors.

As for penetrating oils, I have found Penetrol90 by Schaefer to out perform all others.

Crazy Roland

[Lingwendil]

Tagging this thread, lots of good ideas. I've got a couple exhaust studs in a pair of single port head snapped off flush that I have to deal with soon...
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[modok]

[RolandD]

Modok - true that, a drill guide. The difference is that it is made from a large bolt, so that you can unthread the bolt/guide to see if you are centered and adjust accordingly, without disturbing the setup.

Crazy Roland

[the2ndcashboy]

We use something similar for several things in aircraft structures work http://www.yardstore.com/drill-block-drill-bar-for-slip-fit-bushings.html

You can get a number of different sizes of drill bushings, and there's even a bombsight insert if you need to get super accurate.
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[modok]

[RolandD]

True that. Your eyes must be better than mine, I need all the help I can get.

Crazy Roland

[theastronaut]

I need to remove 40 "hammer drive screws" that weren't meant to be removed. I'm restoring a set of old 5 spoke wheels and there are two screws per spoke that need to be removed to separate the center from the barrel. The wheels are steel rim with aluminum centers. The head of the screw is about 5/8 - 3/4" in diameter and the shaft is about 3/8 - 1/2". Supposedly from my research they are super hardened and drilling/grinding won't work.

I found one post about making a large/hot weld blob on top of the head, then welding a wheel bolt to that, then using a 1/2" impact to back them out. I'm thinking that may work but I wanted to ask here first before potentially ruining my wheel centers. I'll be putting the rims into new chrome barrels so any damage to the rim won't matter.

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[modok]

That's basically the same as used to secure ID plates to blocks, and heat shields to the underside of intake manifolds on most americal V8

Usually use a chisel to whack them side to side and that may loosen and lift enough to grab and twit out with vise-grips, but some refuse to move.

A darn handy tool is a slide hammer with a vise-grips on the end. I'd want to just weld a glob on it, clamp the blob while still glowing and pluck!
weld-a-nut sounds good too, you'll need a lot of nuts I guess.

To put them back in, just coat with locktite and put back in.

[modok]

[rodeking]

Here's how I do Porsche engines with 'Dilavar" head studs. Dilavar was Porsche's bright idea of a steel alloy that matched the thermal expansion rate of aluminum. They achieved that objective but unfortunately it was very susceptible to corrosion stress cracking over time. Dilavar cannot be drilled with HSS or carbide. This was on a '76 Turbo that had about 12 broken studs, three of them broken flush. I make a SS collar that fits around the stud, fill it with MIG running at 180 and zap it with quick trigger bursts allowing just enough time in between so the puddle doesn't slump. Run it hot to get immediate fusion. Build it up with the MIG, weld on a nut, judiciously heat with with the OA and they come out.

[nsracing]

They come out from all that welding heat, don't they?

I have a tap desintigrator I remove studs with. It is kind of like EDM but for just removing studs. At some point I will have a proper EDM machine for more specific work.

[modok]

TEN YEARS. not much has changed.
8mm and below, I still weld them up and "hot forge' it into a wing nut with vise-grips and that works most of the time.
Larger than 8mm broken bolts/studs it is usually necessary to weld something on the end to get enough grip.

I have a NEWish co-worker who has SOME interest in dabbling in the dark arts.
a few weeks ago I saw he was attempting the weld-a-nut idea.....and it broke off.
I explained that it works poorly because that design of joint results in a brittle stress point and ect ect....
I said sarcastically....
"maybe you should turn the nut 90 degrees and weld it on that way, it might work better"


AND IT DOES


Why the heck is that? yeah good question. I think it's because the root of the weld tends to be brittle.
Employing the weld-a-nut technique....normally, the root of the weld ends up the point of highest stress when you twist it....so it easily cracks off, BUT,
If you build it up a little, then introduce the nut while it's still glowing, and weld it on the wrong way, both sides......then the root of the weld is in the center, NOT a stress point.
And using a nut, which is hollow, tends to be a better thickness match than using a similarly sized solid object.
Seems to be 30-50% stronger on average.

So, NEW amendment.
weld-a-nut now FULLY endorsed, BUT you don't weld it on there the intuitive way, turn it 90 degrees

[ZEKE65]

Back when I worked at a power plant, we used to use ( Duratrode stud pull electrode ). It was a welding rod made special for welding a nut onto broken studs to screw it out. They worked really well as long as you got lit off at the top of the stud / bottom of the nut, filled in the nut. Not sure if they still make it.
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