1968 oil bath set up

[Dnapmaster]

Hello,

I just got a stock oil bath air cleaner for my 1968 standard beetle but am having difficulty figuring out the set up. Researching online didn't really help other than its the warm air hose. There aren't any extra holes in the rear engine tin or hoses for it to connect. Am I missing something? Can I run the stock oil bath without attaching the hose? So any help or insight would be much appreciated.

[Cusser]

That's a pre-heat intake for colder climates, would draw in somewhat warmer air early on that has passed over the cylinders, so slightly warmer. You're in San Diego, you really don't need that, cold for you is like 55F ? Likely you have a tin without such hole, and I use a large rubber stopper on mine to block that off.

Here's a 1600cc DP engine in my 1970; I use a similar/slightly different air cleaner and shows rubber stopper blocking the hole.

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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Meiang]

You are missing the metal strap which attaches to the aircleaner clamp and runs down to the carburettor mounting bolt. It is a two piece affair with a captive nut on one piece and a bolt/bolt hole on the other.

[Dnapmaster]

[Dnapmaster]

[bluebus86]

No need to cap the aircleaner warm air intake, leave it open. you should cap the hole associated with it that is on the rear tin piece, but your tin piece does not have that hole, so no to capping anything for you.

you do need to install the tin piece near the lower pulley, else a lot of hot air will be drawn into your colling system, not good!

Bug On!
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[Meiang]

Picture attached.

[Eric&Barb]

You need that hole between the forward of crankshaft pulley and rear cover tin sealed up anyways. Having any holes that you can see road/pavement under the VW is BAD, because any holes there will let the now hot air being blown out under the engine that has already cooled the engine get back into the engine compartment causing the engine not to be cooled as much as it could be.

Here is the rear tin piece you need in the foreground:

Front of pulley tin, the one on the left second up:

Then you need the pre-heat tube and probably the right rear lower cylinder tin. Post images of up under the rear of the engine please.
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[Cusser]

[viiking]

[Meiang]

Part numbers are:
Upper - 113 129 835A
Lower - VAG BAA 129 837
Spring Washer - N 012265
Bolt - N 90529301

Lane Russell used to sell the bracket but the website it shows that it sold out. He may have them on back order or know where you can get them from.

[Meiang]

Quote:
Just to complicate matters here is the photo of an unmolested original 1968 (Jan-build) prior to restoration that has been in our family since new. It is different to Meiang's, which I believe is a '67's. This car has not been changed and I worked on this car as a 16 year old when it was new. the only thing that the photo shows is it has a dealer installed (at service) paper air filter top, which has now been replaced by the correct oil bath one.

I just used the photograph of an example of the bracket. Its not mine.

My 1968 1500 had the preheat pipe installed. It was removed in 1974 and the hole in the sheet metal where the pipe terminated blanked off.

[Jhp212]

So for those of us who live in a colder climate does the hose simply just go out to the underneath the car? I have a removable plate covering that hole but I don’t see where it connects to. Mine is a 71 oil bath type which has the flap but no hose out. How to tell if that flap is working?

[glutamodo]

Well, it will pick up warmer air just dangling down there, but originally there was a pipe to hook it up to. There were at least two designs for the 50mm warm air pickup tube. It got changed for model year 1972. The old style bolted on one side, to the lower #2 exhaust stud, which tend to vibrate and rust and break. The 1972 revision was secured on both sides by shroud screws.

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Andy T.


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[gt1953]

I will get a photo of my complete stock 68 engine later today...it has all of the correct stuff on it. Getting ready to go fishin now sorry.
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Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[Q-Dog]

And while you have the pulley off to install that pulley tin, you should replace that power pulley with a stock-sized pulley.
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[bluebus86]

[Dnapmaster]

[Eric&Barb]

[Dnapmaster]

Stock oil bath in. I like it. Next is to change the pulley, install the pulley tin, and move the fuel filter out of the engine compartment.