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The Stupid Question Thread
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smitty1976bus
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:47 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
If you have the AFM removed, or a spare, you can look through the air passage and see a little nub on one of the walls, that's the air intake temperature sensor, or TS1. It might also be helpful to warm it up briefly with a heat gun of some kind and see how the resistance changes. (Or doesn't!)

Robbie


I don't have it off, but i know what youre talking about, I remember seeing that nubby rubbery thing in there. Now I know what it is, thank you.

I couldn't find my heat gun, so I just went for a drive to heat up the engine bay. Found out that aluminum AFM doesn't absorb much heat... but through out the day, my reading are (temps measured from aluminum housing of intake part of AFM):

65F: 2820 ohms (this morning)
70F: 2420 ohms (this evening)
75F: 2200 ohms (after a 15 minute drive)

No idea if this is good or not, ha. Seems the hotter it is, the lower the ohms, I'll have to test it when I encounter the idle problem..
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:57 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

smitty1976bus wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Are those shiny spots on the wiper tracks near where the wiper is resting?, or missing areas with exposed substrate?

(I'm talking about the sawtoothed black area on the board)
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smitty1976bus
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 6:18 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
smitty1976bus wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Are those shiny spots on the wiper tracks near where the wiper is resting?, or missing areas with exposed substrate?

(I'm talking about the sawtoothed black area on the board)


Could be reflection from the sun or camera flash. Here’s some other pics I took of the AFM when I had it open. There are some areas on that track that seem to be wearing away though, not as bad as that first pic makes it seem though... or at least I hope. Pic below shows it in better shape

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 6:30 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

smitty1976bus wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
smitty1976bus wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Are those shiny spots on the wiper tracks near where the wiper is resting?, or missing areas with exposed substrate?

(I'm talking about the sawtoothed black area on the board)


Could be reflection from the sun or camera flash. Here’s some other pics I took of the AFM when I had it open. There are some areas on that track that seem to be wearing away though, not as bad as that first pic makes it seem though... or at least I hope. Pic below shows it in better shape

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

OK, it does look like a reflection, maybe push the flap open a little and have a look at the area under the wiper to confirm, missing spots there could cause a bad idle.
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smitty1976bus
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 5:45 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I’ve been thinking of buying a rebuilt AFM from Busdepot, interested to see how the bus will run with another AFM attached. May just bite the bullet and order, but at $200 for it and $150 for a core (and I’d probably keep the core, cause it still works and I love having a backup; busdepot must hate me because I never send them cores), it’s a little steep at $350 Sad

I have to replace my pushrod tube o rings (leaks on leaks on leaks) so might as well tackle this issue while im getting my hands dirty.

Every time I hit the freeway for a trip a new problem pops up haha
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 6:16 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

smitty1976bus wrote:
I’ve been thinking of buying a rebuilt AFM from Busdepot, interested to see how the bus will run with another AFM attached. May just bite the bullet and order, but at $200 for it and $150 for a core (and I’d probably keep the core, cause it still works and I love having a backup; busdepot must hate me because I never send them cores), it’s a little steep at $350 Sad


Here’s one I ordered a few months ago...

Hey look, TS1! Also, no groove for the squares rubber gasket. Question

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



That circle looks odd... oh yeah, it was the anti-backfire protection flap, but now it’s a piece of plastic cut with a hobby knife and spray painted silver with the rest of the AFM. It was also dropped at some point in its life before paint.... Shocked

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I get it, rebuilders have to make things shiny to justify $350... The phone calls asking to return the core are cute too...

It was installed on a 2.0 with hydraulic lifters that had just passed CA smog, so I know the engine was architecturally sound. Out of the box, the AFM gave O2 sensor readings that I think would have passed smog as well- just on the lean side of acceptable. The mixtures were fine for most driving, but if I was going across the desert on a long road trip I would want a little more fuel under load.

Robbie
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alman72
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:28 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

what size bolts are used to bolt V to Q?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:24 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

smitty1976bus wrote:
I’ve been thinking of buying a rebuilt AFM from Busdepot, interested to see how the bus will run with another AFM attached. May just bite the bullet and order, but at $200 for it and $150 for a core (and I’d probably keep the core, cause it still works and I love having a backup; busdepot must hate me because I never send them cores), it’s a little steep at $350 Sad

I have to replace my pushrod tube o rings (leaks on leaks on leaks) so might as well tackle this issue while im getting my hands dirty.

Every time I hit the freeway for a trip a new problem pops up haha


These are the guys actually doing the work. I might be inclined to reach out to them directly instead:
https://fuelinjectioncorp.com/
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 12:16 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

alman72 wrote:
what size bolts are used to bolt V to Q?
[img]pic]

M8X1.25 ~15-20mm long.
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alman72
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 2:02 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy, you kick ass. thank you
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 7:46 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

[quote=“airkooledchris”]

These are the guys actually doing the work. I might be inclined to reach out to them directly instead:
https://fuelinjectioncorp.com/ [/quote]

Damn, I just drove by there last week! I’ve instlaled three of theirs now and didn’t have any actual functional issues. (Except that one engine that was dropping an intake valve when the owner SWORE it was the AFM causing the misfires.... Laughing )

I just wish they would have straightened out the dent in the last one..
Robbie
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Beef_Wallington
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 7:56 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Just replaced the battery in by bus - 76 2.0 FI.

Ran fine before but the battery terminals were backwards from what I needed. Now it will start up but dies instantly. I can keep it alive with some throttle but even then it seems to catch up with me sometimes. That being said I haven’t given much throttle because I don’t want to just sit there and rev.

I’ve been seeing something about FI vehicles needing to ‘reset’ sometimes, is that all I’m missing? I don’t think I knocked anything loose while in there.
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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 8:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Beef_Wallington wrote:
Just replaced the battery in by bus - 76 2.0 FI.

Ran fine before but the battery terminals were backwards from what I needed. Now it will start up but dies instantly. I can keep it alive with some throttle but even then it seems to catch up with me sometimes. That being said I haven’t given much throttle because I don’t want to just sit there and rev.

I’ve been seeing something about FI vehicles needing to ‘reset’ sometimes, is that all I’m missing? I don’t think I knocked anything loose while in there.


I did that on my ghia, the po had the cable colors switched:o it fried the voltage regulator.

I was able to start the car and it would run but only if I had the engine revving above idle.

You can go cheap:
https://www.jbugs.com/product/90160320602.html
Or expensive:
http://www.busdepot.com/043903803a
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:03 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I don’t think L-jet is smart enough to need any “learning”’or reset time like most modern cars.

I bet you removed the air filter and AFM for the battery swap... check your AFM plug.. Very Happy

Robbie
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Beef_Wallington
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:04 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

ivwshane wrote:


I did that on my ghia, the po had the cable colors switched:o it fried the voltage regulator.

I was able to start the car and it would run but only if I had the engine revving above idle.

You can go cheap:
https://www.jbugs.com/product/90160320602.html
Or expensive:
http://www.busdepot.com/043903803a


Hmm, is there a way I could have fried it just from disconnecting the battery? The previous battery it ran perfectly and I wired it the same (as in using the same pos to pos).
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Beef_Wallington
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:07 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
I don’t think L-jet is smart enough to need any “learning”’or reset time like most modern cars.

I bet you removed the air filter and AFM for the battery swap... check your AFM plug.. Very Happy

Robbie


Oh you saucy devil - I don’t recall connecting the AFM plug. I can almost guarantee you’ve just saved me some headache!

I’ll report back when I can check.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:12 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

It’s like falling over when you get your first bike with clip-in pedals. Or switching plug wires around for the first time. You almost have to do it a few times to be accepted, even if you feel silly.

Sincerely,
This Establishment Has Gone 7 Days Without a Forgotten AFM plug.
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Beef_Wallington
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:21 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
It’s like falling over when you get your first bike with clip-in pedals. Or switching plug wires around for the first time. You almost have to do it a few times to be accepted, even if you feel silly.

Sincerely,
This Establishment Has Gone 7 Days Without a Forgotten AFM plug.


Unfortunately AFM plug was in, I even reseated it to be sure. I’m going to give it a break for the night and have at it again tomorrow, so any other suggestions would be most appreciated! Very Happy
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:24 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Haha darn. Look at the plug (disconnected) and make sure all the pins are fully seated and looking identical. The two on the right trigger the fuel pump relay.

After that, check the vacuum lines around the plenum and fuel pressure regulator, and the large vacuum hoses connection to and from the s-boot. Sometimes the TS2 runs a cold engine so rich it can overcome a vacuum leak and allow it to run, albeit roughly.

Robbie
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Beef_Wallington
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 7:44 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Haha darn. Look at the plug (disconnected) and make sure all the pins are fully seated and looking identical. The two on the right trigger the fuel pump relay.

After that, check the vacuum lines around the plenum and fuel pressure regulator, and the large vacuum hoses connection to and from the s-boot. Sometimes the TS2 runs a cold engine so rich it can overcome a vacuum leak and allow it to run, albeit roughly.

Robbie


I decided to go straight to vacuum this morning as my plug looked great. Found this bugger had knocked loose while I was either removing or replacing the battery.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks Robbie, she’s purring again! I have a windshield appointment on Monday as well that I have to drive her to my parts van for, so I was a wee bit more stressed about it than I should have been. Laughing
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