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Tim Donahoe Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012 Posts: 11739 Location: Redding, CA
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Posted: Fri Jun 14, 2019 5:45 pm Post subject: Rear brake soft line issue at T and Union. |
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I did a search and came up with one controversial idea, so I’m asking here.
I’m about to change out my rear wheel brake cylinders and the soft brake lines. The rear cylinders will be easy (been there, done that). But I’m left wondering how to hold onto the union and T, so I can remove and install the new soft lines—without twisting up the other lines to the T on the left side, and the union on the right side.
Is it just a matter of getting a grip with vice grips on the left-side T and the right-side union? It looks very tight in there .
Thanks,
Tim _________________ Let's do the Time Warp again!
Richard O'Brien |
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Zundfolge1432 Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2004 Posts: 12454
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Posted: Fri Jun 14, 2019 5:48 pm Post subject: Re: Rear brake soft line issue at T and Union. |
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That’s what I’ve done because if you don’t it will bend the bracket. 11mm line wrench preferable |
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Tim Donahoe Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012 Posts: 11739 Location: Redding, CA
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Posted: Fri Jun 14, 2019 5:59 pm Post subject: Re: Rear brake soft line issue at T and Union. |
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Thanks, Zund.
In my search, one poster said he had to first remove the T-fitting bolt. But that seemed like a bit of extra work that I’d rather not do unless necessary to get vice grips on the T.
Tim _________________ Let's do the Time Warp again!
Richard O'Brien |
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Multi69s Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 5360 Location: Lefty, CA
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Relyt Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2012 Posts: 1008 Location: WA
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Posted: Fri Jun 14, 2019 6:17 pm Post subject: Re: Rear brake soft line issue at T and Union. |
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I just did this as well, I jammed a screw driver under/over the T to keep it in place, and of course used an 11mm flare wench. _________________ 69 Beetle - Daily driver
1600 SP (unknown history)
30 PICT 1 w/power circuit (Volkzbitz)
205T (Bill) |
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Tim Donahoe Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012 Posts: 11739 Location: Redding, CA
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Posted: Fri Jun 14, 2019 8:15 pm Post subject: Re: Rear brake soft line issue at T and Union. |
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I will be using flare wrenches, for certain.
I’ll have to check out that T fitting again, so I can understand where to jam a screwdriver, or loosen the hold-down bolt ... or replace it temporarily with a longer one to get more room to work.
It was 100 degrees today, so I didn’t finish the job for that reason also. I did have a very easy time of pulling the drums.
It helps to have the proper tools. 3/4 inch Sears breaker bar on a four foot pipe. A two year old could have loosened those castellated nuts. I’ll be using my TorqueMeister (knockoff) to tighten the nuts, however.
Tim _________________ Let's do the Time Warp again!
Richard O'Brien |
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volksworld Samba Member
Joined: November 26, 2011 Posts: 2525 Location: formerly NY currently NC
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Posted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 6:32 am Post subject: Re: Rear brake soft line issue at T and Union. |
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take a good look at the condition of the splines in the drum ....if the things been running for a long time with the rear nuts improperly tightened there could be significant wear...the last 1/8 inch of the drum out by the nut extends past the axle splines so the drum spline there will still be the factory thickness...if the rest of the spline is much thinner time to replace the drum...iirc i use a needle nose visegrip on that rear T |
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Frodge Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2006 Posts: 1991 Location: Dump
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Posted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 6:43 am Post subject: Re: Rear brake soft line issue at T and Union. |
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I didn’t realize it was such a pain to change the rear soft lines out. Make a video when you do it. |
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[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2003 Posts: 4863 Location: Harmony, PA
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Posted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 7:01 am Post subject: Re: Rear brake soft line issue at T and Union. |
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Frodge wrote: |
I didn’t realize it was such a pain to change the rear soft lines out. Make a video when you do it. |
It isn’t IF everything is in good shape....
It’s when the tab holding the “t” is rusted, the hoses have never been replaced, or the previous owner gorilla torqued a replacement hose end into the t 20 years ago without any type of antiseize.
I’ve always taken a large vice grip, and clamped it on the bolt itself with the t still mounted. One jaw on the top of the hex head, the other on the end of the bolt threaded portion. This has been the way for me to cause the least damage if things are being difficult. You don’t chew up the brass, and you don’t put force on the mounting tab. If you chew up the bolt, simply put a new one in the t.
I changed the hoses on my Super recently for simply maintenance, and with antiseize, everything came apart.
I’ve also changed og hoses where I thought I had broken my wrist from punching the rear parcel tray when the fitting came loose after having another wrench daisy chained into the flare wrench for leverage. |
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Multi69s Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 5360 Location: Lefty, CA
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