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vlad01 Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 3069 Location: Australia
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Posted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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hinges are made the other way around I just noticed. nothing to do with the seals but I just noticed it then. |
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jimmybo1313 Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2007 Posts: 32
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Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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Can anyone tell me what the spring loaded tab under the bottom hinge is for? Mine are frozen. I pulled out the carpet and found a plastic cover over a coil spring assembly inside the car. The assembly has a cable that loops around the kick pannel and run's down the side of the tunnel. At the end of the cable is a funky hook. It looks like it might bolt down but I haven't found a mounting screw hole yet or anything that the hook would connect to. My Haynes manual calls it a leaf spring to throw door open when latch is released. Seems like a whole hell of a lot of enginering with the cable and all for that! Bobnotch shows it in the bootom of his picture. |
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KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 33990 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:39 pm Post subject: |
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Early seat back lock/release. |
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jimmybo1313 Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2007 Posts: 32
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Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:58 pm Post subject: |
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No kiddin? My seats were recoverd, poorly I might add, and I thought the PO was lazy or just lost the peaces for the seat back release mech. It's been a PITA reaching under the bottom of the seat to manualy unlatch the back. Thanks, I hope I can get them hooked back up and working properly.
In reguards to the weather strip. I've found ISP to work well. It is a little soft and can be damaged easily but it goes on easily. I've gotten some peaces from different folks over the years and some can come awfully white or light collored and stiff as a board making them hard to glue and/or hard to conform. |
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Mike Fisher Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 17969 Location: Eugene, OR
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Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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Tram built little spring loaded step on levers to release my seat backs. _________________ https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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jimmybo1313 Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2007 Posts: 32
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1rabbit1981 Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2009 Posts: 30 Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 2:09 pm Post subject: |
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Mike Fisher wrote: |
Tram built little spring loaded step on levers to release my seat backs. |
Got any pics of this setup? |
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Mike Fisher Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 17969 Location: Eugene, OR
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Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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I don't have any pictures as I ended up selling those seats and replacing them with custom velour seats. They were pretty simple L brackets bolted to the hooks that just barely stuck out from the back of the seat bottom for your toe. Tram will be along soon for the specifics. _________________ https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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jimmybo1313 Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2007 Posts: 32
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ronbug73 Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2009 Posts: 378 Location: ISRAEL
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Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 10:15 am Post subject: german |
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why the German are so expensive if we compere them to the price of the German beetle door seals? |
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notchboy Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2002 Posts: 22446 Location: Escondido CA
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Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 4:37 pm Post subject: |
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Later German Rubber and the check strap:
There is a groove in the door that allows the rubber to recess into on later doors. So the rubber is a bit thicker on later cars AND had the check strap rubber block.
On early cars there is no groove and no rubber block check strap thing. And the check strap seal is a cup on the A pilar hat presses in that little hole in the pic - like that other guy said.
The biggest problem with the German rubber is that its dense and makes the door super springy. Even on doors its meant to go on. ISP knew this when they made theirs. Its a softer rubber and universal fit.
And when you see a full door kit offered - the scrapers and exterior metal trim are form a T2 baywindow bus. No one makes a 100% correct T3 one. The bay is close enough. Just an FYI to some of you noobies. _________________
t3kg wrote: |
OK, this thread is over. You win. |
Jason "notchboy" Weigel
1964 1500 S
1964 T34 S Convertible
1977 Westfalia Camper pop-top |
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notchboy Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2002 Posts: 22446 Location: Escondido CA
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Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 4:39 pm Post subject: Re: german |
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ronbug73 wrote: |
why the German are so expensive if we compere them to the price of the German beetle door seals? |
Mass production and sales of a part = lower price. Limited production and lackluster sales = higher price. _________________
t3kg wrote: |
OK, this thread is over. You win. |
Jason "notchboy" Weigel
1964 1500 S
1964 T34 S Convertible
1977 Westfalia Camper pop-top |
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Muthashabubu Samba Member
Joined: March 21, 2008 Posts: 444 Location: SW Ohio
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Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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Mike Fisher wrote: |
You could buy good used seals with the blocks a lot cheaper if you place a WTB ad. |
I have already ordered the door seals, but could always use them on the '66 instead. I am sure it needs them.
I think I will try the WTB ad and see what comes up. So for a '71, I am looking for anything 67 and later right? |
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axeman569 Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2015 Posts: 83 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 5:48 pm Post subject: Re: Which of these door seals are best? |
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Sorry to bring up an old post but I couldn't find any others to answer my question. After looking at Bobnotch's picture of the check rod seal holes, I checked my car. I have a 63 Notch but it doesn't have the holes for the check rod seal. I used a wire wheel to clean the paint off to see if maybe they were welded up. Attached is a picture. In it you can see where the hole under the hinge bolt (upper left square) should be but there looks as though there is a spot on the outer edge (upper right square) as well. You can barely see where there was possibly supposed to be a hole (lower square) under the mount. My car is an April of 1963 Notch with a Sunroof. I don't know if maybe having a sunroof kept VW from drilling the holes? Both sides are missing the holes for the seals. I am looking into door seals. Is it better to leave them filled and go with the ISP West door seals, or drill the holes and get the check rod seals as well as the door seals?
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notchboy Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2002 Posts: 22446 Location: Escondido CA
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Posted: Fri Jul 05, 2019 10:11 am Post subject: Re: Which of these door seals are best? |
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The holes aren't there because the earlier cars use a different seal without that stamping in the middle have you saw in the other picture. Your car is perfectly normal without it. _________________
t3kg wrote: |
OK, this thread is over. You win. |
Jason "notchboy" Weigel
1964 1500 S
1964 T34 S Convertible
1977 Westfalia Camper pop-top |
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axeman569 Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2015 Posts: 83 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Fri Jul 05, 2019 2:50 pm Post subject: Re: Which of these door seals are best? |
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Ok. Thank you. Saves me from having to locate those seals. |
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