1975 bug maintenance and service

[JD1979]

I'm trying to resurrect a 1975 standard Beetle with an earlier 1600cc DP engine that has a 34 pict 3 carburetor. This engine has an old-style voltage regulator mounted on the fan shroud. Cusser used his voltmeter and tested the generator while disconnected from the regulator, said that the generator was putting out voltage. However, with the regulator connected, voltage across the battery read only battery voltage. The charging indicator light in the cluster does not light up at all, the oil pressure light does work as it should.

Cusser noted that only one of the two large terminals at B+ on the regulator has a wire connected, that comes from the battery. The other B+ terminal is bare, and with the VW being a 1975 body, he didn't know what should connect there. Any suggestions, thanks. I have 30 days to pass emissions .

[Cusser]

His 1975 has an earlier, carbureted engine in it, which has a generator and fan shroud mounted regulator; so I didn't want to guess where to wire that "empty" large B+ terminal to.

His Brosol 34PICT-3 is missing choke cam and associated parts too; I suggested Tim at Volkzbitz.

And the wiring in the trunk has been painted over, too much of a project for me to take on; I suggested Wedge VW in Phoenix.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[JD1979]

[sjbartnik]

B+ is B+, battery hot.

Checking a '71 wiring diagram (generator equipped with regulator in engine compartment) it looks like VW ran a red wire direct from battery + terminal to B+ on regulator, then of course an additional red wire ran from B+ to the headlight switch etc.

If there's not a wire from b+ to the regulator on this car, you could always just run a 10 gauge wire from B+ on the regulator to terminal 30 on the solenoid and achieve the same goal.
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[ashman40]

Original generator VR wiring placed the regulator under the rear seat. The B+ terminal(s) served as a junction point for three current flows:

Output from the generator/VR.
#30 cable from the battery positive post.
Main #30 wire that runs from the VR to the front of the car where it powers pretty much EVERYTHING.

Since your VR is located in the engine compartment it makes no sense to route BOTH the battery cable and the main #30 wire all the way back to the engine. I suspect there is still some type of junction under the rear seat. Follow the red wire that leave the VR B+ terminal and find it in the harness below the rear seat. Also trace the heavy gauge wire running from the battery post. At some point these three wires need to come together.
What some will do is to run the B+ output from the VR (or B+ from alternator) to the starter solenoid stud where the battery cable connects. This functionally connects the B+ output to the battery post. The under the rear seat the #30 battery wire connects straight to the #30 main wire that runs to the front. All three wires are connected together just not at the same point.

In all model years B+ is the regulated output from the charging system. It needs to splice into the main #30 circuit.

In the generator wiring the D+ from the generator is the output from the generator and not necessarily regulated. D+ from the generator runs to the VR where it can be monitored and regulated before the VR outputs current on the B+.

On your car, the #61 blue wire which starts at the GEN lamp in the speedo needs to run all the way to the VR. Normally this wire only ran to the space under the rear seat. You need to find this blue wire and confirm it is reaching the VR #61 terminal. Hopefully the PO extended it so it could reach the VR.
TEST: with the ignition ON, remove the #61 wire from the VR and ground it. This should turn the GEN lamp ON. If the lamp does not turn ON you have a disconnect from the GEN lamp to the #61 terminal of the VR. Find the break.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[sjbartnik]

ashman40 brilliantly shows why I should not reply when high on cold medicine!
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[JD1979]

I am a wiring newb where do I find these connections? Do i trace from the fuse box?

[ashman40]

[JD1979]

Would it be better to install a new or used wiring harness on this? Because then i can get rid of the rats nest of a wiring harness and make sure everything gets a new wire and connectors.

[JD1979]

[JD1979]

[ashman40]

[JD1979]

I think I am going to try and clean up wires removing paint/elec clean spray the terminals. I noticed that my push to start ignition has what I believe that red B+ wire not connected hopefully that easy. First step clean up wires in back seat. Then clean trunk and try ang get rid of all old stereo wiring. Then use a diagram to try and clean up each section of wiring starting with front head lights. Paint thinner on the wires?

[JD1979]

So finally getting around to cleaning this up. I took some pics need advice do I start under the hood fuse box area? Or the battery compartment or the engine? Also please look at the pics I wrote some questions there too
Thank you!!

[JD1979]

So I have wires going into fuse box and wires going into the relays. I feel like cleaning off the paint is first step. Then marking each wire with example of #1bottom fuse or top fuse#3 then disconnecting all of them cleaning up ends new clamps etc.. then reconnecting in a clean and electric tape bound organized way. My other problem is finding a schematic that makes sense and has everything marked like what the E and D mean as far as what I am looking at where the wires connect? Any help is appreciated!

[ashman40]

Agree your first step needs to be clean off the paint. You need to see the wire colors w/ identifying stripes/marks. This is the original way to understand what the wires support and where they should be connected. If you can clearly see the wire colors you shouldn't need to label each wire. Having to read the label takes longer than looking for the wire color. Look at the below pic of the fuse box and you will notice the fuse box and wires are broken up into basically five groups...

Fuses #1&#2 - grey wires (parking lights)
Fuses #3&#4 - yellow wires (low beam)
Fuses #5&#6 - white wires (high beam)
Fuses #8&#9 - red wires (battery constant 12v)
Fuse #10 - black/yellow wires (accessory systems; not powered while engine cranking)
Fuses #11& #12 - black wires (ignition switch powered 12v)

I recommend you use the '72 wiring diagram JUST for the fuse box section. While it is NOT 100% the same as the '75 wiring diagram it will be 95% the same. Then work from the differences (the '72 includes wires for the blower and rear window defroster, the '73-up STD diagram doesn't; also the #7 fuse may be a standalone fuse and not share the same INPUT with #8 & #9).
Here is a snippet of just the fuse box area from the '72 STD/SB Beetle wiring diagram (fuse#1 on left; #12 on right). It shows the wire colors and where they connect on the fuse box:

A key point, notice the thick black lines that connect pairs of fuses together along one side... this is the INPUT side of the fuse. One INPUT wire (white wire at fuse #6 for example) provides power to two (2) fuses which support two separate OUTPUTS. Mixing up the INPUT/OUTPUT sides of the fuse box usually result in overloading a fuse and causes it to blow. Be sure to connect the wires to their correct fuses and the correct SIDE of the fuse.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}