can use some help with dual 44 weber idf's

[Shady]

I am not a carb guy and do not know much about them. I am willing to read though.

I purchased a fiberglass buggy that had been sitting for years.
It was a 1835 non stroker set up with dual weber 44 idf's. I was told it was a good running setup when parked.

After messing with it for a while I am not sure it was ever really running correctly.

The carbs had been left with fuel in them so were packed with white chunky granules throughout. The floats were stuck. i do not know any jet sizes or engine info other than its a 1835

I replaced the jugs and pistons due to rust and pitting.


I took the carbs down soaked them in the gallon can of carb cleaner you get at a auto parts store then ran them though a heated ultrasonic bath a few times with simple green and water 50/50.

the 2 top brass jet holders came apart and the lower section was stuck in the carb it took a lot of coaxing to get them out. and were solid gunk they did clean up nice and all holes look clear. cleaned all the passages with carb cleaner and compressed air. They seem to be clear but I sure duno if there is still junk down in there. the accelerator pumps springs were rusted into several pcs

I put them back together with rebuild kits put them on the car.

Set the fast idle screw to 1 turn in and the mix screws to 2 out. I could not get it to idle I turned the fast idle screw 1/4 turn till I got it to idle it was at 2 1/4 turns so way to far in. If I go below 2 turns it will not idle.

So does that mean the jets are wrong ? and how do I tell what size is in there are they marked I did not seem to recall seeing any numbers on them. Or does it mean there is still some crap in one of the passages ?

Are 44;s going to be to big for a 1835 with stock heads other than being cut to fit the pistons ?

Is it worth trying to tune them or should I give up and pick up a set of Empi 40 idfs ?


Thanks for any opinions and help

[Shady]

Compression was 80-90 on all 4 cyl. I have a cheap harbor freight tester so may not be exact.And the engine was not exactly warmed up.

Plugs were black with soot. But I am not sure if thats a good indicator as they really were not ran long and it was all with the buggy parked never driven yet.

[67rustavenger]

[Dale M.]

All jets should be marked....

Usual idle jet is about 55 (+/-).

Usual main is in range from 135 to about 150 (depends on engine build..

Usually F7 emulsion tubes and 2.0 air correction...

These are ball park number to at least get it to run...

On idle mixture screws, about one turn (or less) out is idle jet to rich, about 2 or more turns out idle jets are to lean....

The start enrichment circuits should have plungers in place and seated, or passages plugged...

Air correction jets "normally" are fully closed...

Also check idle jets to be sure they are not plugged (again)...

IF idle mixture screw don't seem to adjust anything, idle speed screws may be holding butterflys open to much and you are off the idle ports and going onto mains...

Carbs sound really iffy with all the corrosion damage...

You can keep trying but after about 3-4 go around of disassembly and cleaning, I think a new set of carbs may be in order....

If carbs are good, they should come in to "sync" with lean best idle adjustment...

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[Shady]

pulled one of the main top center "jets" the 3 numbers are

f11 emulsion tubes

1.35 main jet

1.75 air jet

I will have to pull the other to check the numbers.

Do you think those parts are ok for a 1835 non stroker with stock heads.

Its going to be 3 or so days before I can dig into it again due to that pesky work thing.

thanks for the help

[Shady]

So if I end up going new carbs should I stick with dual 44 idf or drop to dual 40 Idf's

I assume the intake and my linkage should work with 44's or 40's .

[Dale M.]

[67rustavenger]

Or a set of 36 Dellorto DRLA's would be a sweet set of carbs. I have several Dell carb sets (36, 40, 45) and find them to be, "not as crude" as Weber/EMPI HPMX IDF's.
The Dell's are much more adjustable than IDF's.
But if ease of installation and gross adjustments are paramount. You can't go wrong with a set of Weber 40 IDF or the EMPI 40 HPMX.

Good Luck.

[[email protected]]

[Shady]

I have no clue what the other specs on the engine are. It was purchased in the car and the seller had less info that I did lol.

The exaust looks like a Empi 55-3373 although its OLD so may be what empi copied.
https://www.amazon.com/55-3373-Buggy-Exhaust-Ceram...amp;sr=8-1

[Shady]

So if I go new knock off carbs. When people say clean them what would you recommend.

Removing all the jets screws pump ext ext and blowing carb cleaner though all the holes then compressed air ?

Should I toss it in a heated ultrasonic cleaner with simple green/water 50/50 Some say this washes all the lube out of the bearings ?


Or did you just slap them on and give it a go ?

[[email protected]]

[Shady]

pulling the oil pump to look at the cam would net me no info. I would not have the slightest clue as to what i was looking at. Or where to look to see if info was stamped on the cam and even then I would have no clue if it had been reground.

I am not looking to squeeze out ever last pony. I am more interested in a car that will start,idle and drive down the street without stalling and backfiring.


Thanks for the help and info I will try and find out more but doubt Its going to be much.

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