help with weird tapping sound on 1641 dp motor...

[sanhozeezee]

so recently my 67 started to make this weird noise on the left (drivers) side. i adjusted the valves #1 exhaust valve seems to have stuck with about .004 clearance and won’t adjust no matter how far i back out the set screw. other than that the others were fine.

power seems all there just the tapping sound. any ideas what to check?

btw, here’s a video i found of another persons 67 dp motor that’s making the exact same sound.


Link

[Eric&Barb]

[sanhozeezee]

here's a video of my motor. it doesn't seem to sound as loud today but you can hear when i drop the camera near the left valve cover the tapping is more evident.


Link

[Bruce Amacker]

I think you screwed up the valve adjustment. Pull the left VC and rotate the engine slowly, grabbing and rocking each rocker arm repeatedly. I bet you find a loose one.
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'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Build threads:
'66- http://www.leakoil.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=2888&sid=54d8dedfb3822f99c7f2ea430cb4e856
'65- http://leakoil.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4263

[flemcadiddlehopper]

I agree .

many people like to adjust valves at TDC firing for each cylinder because there is less turning of the engine.

I like to adjust valves by looking which valve is open all the way. Then adjust the valve that's closed. eg. if #1 intake is open all the way, adjust #1 exhaust. If this is done correctly you are ensuring that the lifter is on the low point of the cam when adjusting, and you really only have to turn then engine over two full turns. Because when #1 exhaust is open, the exhaust that is directly across the engine will be closed, I hope that makes sense and doesn't confuse you.

Gordo.
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[BarryL]

Wow that's gnarly sounding.

[Eric&Barb]

Get the three plastic clips that snap into the holes on the rear of the fan shroud. The spark plug cables then clip into those plastic clips, to keep the cables from possibly getting melted on the hot heat riser pipes or chaffed laying around like that. Also you are wasting cooling air by having it leak back into the engine compartment.

Looks like you are also missing the heat riser tins.
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[Eric&Barb]

You are missing the left rear lower cylinder tin, that is important to keep the cooling air flowing over the rear lower of that cylinder. Having the rear tin hanging open like that on the left with the cylinder fins showing is a good way to cook the engine by letting air that has cooled the engine to get back into the engine compartment and thusly hotter air to being pumped back over the engine.

Do check if the right hand lower rear cylinder tin is missing!
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[Eric&Barb]

Get the stock metal fuel line that should be running from just in front engine tin (front as in closer to the front bumper) and all the way to the fuel pump. You want to keep the flexible fuel line to a minimum, and have less chance of a VW BBQ. Also most folks are not a big fan of the fuel filter in the engine compartment due to possibly causing a fire. Personally never have had a problem with it between the fuel pump and carb for several hundred thousand miles, but you do not want the filter to be rubbing against hard items...,
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[sanhozeezee]

[Eric&Barb]

Classifieds on this very website is a great place to do a searches for parts for sale like "Engine Tin" or other stuff like that. Do avoid the West of Pacific reproduction stuff like the plague.

Hopefully you will be getting a stock air cleaner...
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[DubStyle]

Pull the valve cover and look for loose hardware. Your adjuster nuts could have backed off. The nuts that hold your rocker shaft could have backed off. Then like they mentioned above, check your timing. Oh and do the things E&B said, he comes off as twat, but he's gonna save you some money and a major head ache in the end.
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Anthony

SBS #1
SBS #1 on FB

"The original & best lowered Split Bus website/club"

[sanhozeezee]

pulled the valve cover off and checked to see if any of the adjuster and/or rocker shaft nuts were loose and they're fine. timing is next and i may even try and re-adjust the valves using the "open-close" method. i also checked the exhaust gaskets on the left bank and there doesn't appear to be any evidence of any exhaust leakage.

i'm stumped

[BarryL]

It could even be a binding wrist pin or sticking lifter.

[Eric&Barb]

[sanhozeezee]

need to put this on hold while i update my brakes and suspension. 2 out of 4 drums had stuck cylinders and grounded down to the metal backings! 3 shocks were shot too making a wheezing sound on compression and the drivers front drum cylinder had zero fluid in the hose. i'm guessing it's clogged somewhere along the master to the brake line. getting real intimate with it now

waiting for parts and then will get back to this...

[sanhozeezee]

ok so finally getting back to this... so this morning i saw that one of the exhaust nuts had backed out! so much that could loosen even more with my hands

i tightened it along with the bottom nut and bingo bango motor is quiet again. going to wither double nut or lock washer the thing. anyone else experience this and what did you do to fix it?

[Eric&Barb]

Mayhaps you did not properly torque the nuts down in the first place?
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[turkis-deluxe]

[quartermilecamel]

I have had exhaust make all kinds of seudo valve train noise. My head exhaust nuts have been coming loose for years, even a couple of studs. Havnt bought copper nuts yet and should do so. Right after I solve the dreaded shrinking valve cover gasket then piss all your oil out while your driving issue. I do my adjustment for valves with the .006 is ok as long as a .007 doesnt fit. This is my first engine and it has so many issues its time for the do over. May you find your noises in short order, good luck
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