Case and cylinder machining

[Onceler]

Hello, I’ve been trying to build a 2387 as narrow as possible. So I’m wondering if there’s a shop out there that can do the work as described in the pic. I’m hesitant to send it to a high volume machine shop cause it’s probably out of their routine. I’m sure I could’ve ordered parts that are better suited for what I’m trying to achieve, but it’s a moot point now, cause these are the parts I have.

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1972 Karmann Ghia

[jeffrey8164]

The first name that comes to mind is Roy at MOFOCO. He’s been in the game a long time and will probably instinctively know what needs to be done.

I’m sure there are more and possibly even someone local to you but I’ve had them do all my casework since around 1994. No complaints.
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Volkswagen!
Turning owners into mechanics since 1938.

“Let he that is without oil throw the first rod”
(Compression 8.7:1)

[modok]

Wish I could do it, but i can't take on any more projects for at least 4 months.

[bugguy1967]

I can handle it for you.

F.Y.I., the number three spigot's step is for strength. Completely removing it is a bad idea. Why do you need the steps gone anyway? They're about 97mm, so they'll always clear a 94 piston.

Also, are you sure you need cylinder notches, or do you just want to be safe? I have a customer that has a 90mm stroke and 5.7 rods without the need for barrel notches.
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"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[74 Thing]

Pack it up and send it to Tabari eg bugguy1967

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[Onceler]

[Onceler]

Also, as for the notches, it may have just been to be safe due to not having the cylinder liners trimmed to be able to verify. Using 5.6 h beams if it makes a difference. I think I’ll mock it up again, just to refresh my memory since it’s been so long, and see what is really necessary.
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1972 Karmann Ghia

[RWK]

IMHO,nothing wrong if done either way, but the steps needs corner radius in them as do the steps in the cylinders or they may start a crack at the sharp corners, anything cast is susceptible to cracking, like Roy says you can bore straight thru also, eliminates a stress riser if step bored wrong, (sharp). I have done them both ways, I always use a radius tool (end mill, lathe tool), pm me if I can help, In MI.
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73 Type 181
63 Type 113
63 Type 261- 428 071
62 Type 241-378 025 178 530

[mark tucker]

tabari should be able to do what you want. as for the steps adding support to the cylinder/piston they dont really do that, there is clearance between them. use the shortest piston pin locatioon for narrow engine. the B piston isant very short, go to a C or less to get it narrow.

[modok]

How thick the case is by that #3 seems to vary a lot.
You look at different year cases some are thinner than others and it doesn't even seem to have to do with the year or whatever.
it's like they beefed it up in the early 70's to try to stop the cracks, but once they figured out changing the studs was the actual cure then some thinner again, and then others extra thick.
Just varies is all I'm sayin. Not necessarily one size fits all.

[mark tucker]

I do like shorter cylinder not hanging in the case to collect oil.or relived cylinder/knotched /clearanced cylinder needs not hang too far down in the case.or have too much to collect oil to send to the rings to control. but you do need some support and carfull knotching releiveng so it dose not flap in the breezze and close up skirt clearance.thus another reason why there not tight in the case. if your good you can trim to somewhat mimic crankshaft scraper...but thats a lot of work. high pin height pistons usually are a lot shorter skirts any way, so no need for all the hanging in the case.

[nsracing]

What is the point of making this motor narrow? Are you trying to accomodate a singleport intake manifold or sumpting?

One, it can only be so narrow for the rod length or piston height combo you got. Then it is just matter of fitting the cylinders on there and cut down to whatever length. But you also have to think about piston skirt support.

Notching cylinders is nothing new - Type IV engines have notched cylinders but only on one side. Why do you think that is?

I like to stay away from notching the cylinders - the material needs to be there to support the lower end of the cylinder and keep it round. If you remove material and notch - there will be parts that 'hang' by themselves and flop in there. Just my thought on it.

And I stopped machining ledges long time ago. They are worthless to me. If you have machined to 94mm bore and leave a tiny ledge there..some people claim for strength is a joke. That ledge is so tiny..I am like wtf is it for? So I just do not bother with. However, in the #3 spigot you gotta leave a lip there or you can come out the backside if you are not careful.

my 2cents.

[Onceler]

Sorry, I mis-spoke. What I’m really targeting is for it to be as close to a stock 1600 width. Just because this engine will probably end up in multiple cars and I don’t want to have to modify each car.
I’ve gone back and mocked it up and changed the oal of the cylinders so that I don’t think they need notching anymore. The piston skirt will only stick out of the cylinder by 10mm. I think it’s enough support.

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1972 Karmann Ghia