What should I do?

[astock86]

I have a question for the forum. I need some guidance on what I should do.
I've got a 1983.5 Westy. It was for sale recently - although I just deactivated the listing. You'll see why.

It's in great shape. Super clean. All the camping stuff works. Odometer reads 103k, which is probably not true. Custom exhaust and rad custom wraparound bumper. Brand spanking new full transmission rebuild. I digress.

Recently on a trip, I started losing power. Just no guts when I tried to accelerate. I took to a shop in SLC, UT, and they told me that the compression in one or two of the cylinders is out of whack. They were unable to determine if they could fix the problem with motor in the car, or would need to remove it.

I would still like to sell this vehicle, but clearly, I have a major mechanical issue in the motor. They gave me 3 options:

1. Sell as-is and expect to get $6,000 - $7,000
2. Replace the motor with a used motor - cost = $3,500 sell price = $11,000
3. Replace the motor with a new motor + warranty - cost = $5,500 sell price = $15,000

I just want to see if this is inline or if these numbers are crazy. I'm open to other options. If you were me, what would you do?

[4Gears4Tires]

Whenever you get tired of a vehicle or project, it's time to wash your hands of it. It's not worth the emotional stress worrying about it over 5k.

Unless you are hard pressed for cash. Then do the engine swap yourself.
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[silversync]

Mine once had similar symptoms, low compression. Turned out to be a burnt exhaust valve. Do you know if the engine perhaps went through some overheating? Perhaps do a leakdown test and that might reveal some more info. I think a new head and installation should be possible for under $1,000.
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Roland: '89 Syncro, '02 911 C4S, '10 Audi A4 Avant

[Vanagon Nut]

Was the shop unable to get consistent compression readings to determine if one or both cylinders are leaking? What were the readings? Is the leak(s) happening at one head or both heads? Was power loss sudden or were their other symptoms prior?

I'm no expert re: WBX engine mechanical issues. Just trying to narrow down if the engine indeed has a major issue. e.g. if compression test readings are intermittent, could there be a lifter and/or valve train issue?

IMO, the body would have to be in good shape rust wise to see $6-7K as is.

[edit if engine truly needs replacing or rebuild] If it were me, I'd find an engine that can be seen still running, check compression and oil pressure if convenient, look for obvious signs of issues, then if ok, put that in and sell the van. Try to find something original (nearly impossible I think) or one thats been rebuilt properly with paperwork to support that. Whatever it is, make sure exhaust is good. Make it more of a "bolt up" affair.

For me, to list van at a relatively high ask price with "new motor + warranty" which would likely mean an AVP rebuild or similar, should the engine fail too soon, does that come back on me? Or, is the engine warranty transferable?

Neil.

[astock86]

This is good feedback. Thank you. The body is in great shape with very little rust. So I've got that going for me.

The power loss was somewhat sudden. I could hear a change in the motor as I was driving.

I'll follow up with the shop on compression readings.

Thanks!

[0to60in6min]

repair it if you want to keep it...

otherwise sell it as is so the would be buyer will have more options for engine or even conversion...

good luck

[DanHoug]

[leecat]

I'd do another engine swap myself were it my van - it's crazy easy and there are SO many sources of information online, including Vanagon Nut's excellent documentation. Kennedy Engineering's adapter plates are the cat's meow, and certainly don't break the bank.

Plus you can get the adapter plates for a ridiculous range of engines - dig up a Ford Focus engine or an ABA or even a 4.3 Chevy at the wrecker for a couple hundred bucks and in a week you'd have an actual reliable engine in it.

Those horrible antiquated underpowered and unreliable WBX engines aren't worth the powder to blow 'em. 'Misplaced Emotional Attachment' is the only reason I can think of for running one.

[Vanagon Nut]

[SyncroHead]

In order to check out another option of seeing if the engine repair is worthwhile, I'd suggest contacting Hans Jorgensen.

He's in Salt Lake City, knows Vanagons well and goes by the name "hans J" here at The Samba.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=71604

Jim Davis
_________________
"A Vanagon? It's not a car or a van. It's a hobby!"

Check out:
www.VANAVATION.com
www.SyncroSafari.org and
www.Vanagons.org

[Wildthings]

How much would you pay for a non running thirty year old car? Not a lot I would think. Find an decent engine that was pulled as part of an engine swap and install it, hopefully being able to do a test drive before the engine is pulled.

[[email protected]]

[tencentlife]

Never condemn an engine on a compression test alone, if the comp test isn't good you must go on and do a leakdown test with the rocker sets removed. Minor valvetrain irregularities can cause unreliable comp tests, but a leakdown doesn't lie. And during leakdown, no valve is leaky until it is leaky after receiving a few sharp whacks with a plastic mallet on the spring retainer, which is why you must remove the rockers first.

Lots of engines have been condemned after comp tests when all that was wrong were simple things that can be cleared up with treatments as cheap as running a quart of ATF in a single tank of gas to clean intake valve stems, which are very prone to sticking in this engine type, especially when cheap gas is used, or a cup of ATF or MMO in the engine oil to clean the hydraulic lifters. Don't pull this engine or sell the van as-is without a rockers-off leakdown test first.
_________________
Shop for unique Vanagon accessories at the Vanistan shop:
https://intrepidoverland.com/vanistan/

Please don't PM here, I will not reply.

Experience is kryptonite to doctrine.

[Make America Vanagon]

Ask yourself, 'why am I selling this?' My guess is you'd be upside down anyway, we all are, so sell as is and really highlight the positives of your van in your ad to maximize asking price. Going the other way, and fixing it, you might talk yourself into keeping it.

[E1]

I wouldn't even consider selling it unless you're sorry you bought it.

Something had you buying it that's since changed.

What I hear most of the time is "tired of or can't afford fixing it," which I totally understand (but hope to not practice for a very long time).

It is a difficult if not impossible rig to improve upon for the same money.
_________________
‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[michaelbteam]

Get a second opinion before jumping to conclusions?? In Salt Lake there are a few reputable shops I've used. Maybe you already went to Utah Imports, where Hans works. Bob at Concourse Auto is a highly skilled straight shooter. Metric Motors in Centerville specializes in engines.
And Morris Brothers specializes in German and one of them had a Syncro for years.

[MarkWard]

I’m always looking for non running vanagons, but I try to pay so that there is some meat on the bones once I get them running to sell on. I also have a used 2.1 WBX that I pulled out of my 90 listed for sale here. Buyer arranges freight.
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[astock86]

More info: cylinder's 1 and 3 are both reading with very low compression. Without the engine running, they are measuring less than 10 PSI. Running, and adding a little bit of oil to each cylinder (a way to test the cylinder rings), it bumps the compression readings up but they are still much lower than they should be. As you may know, cylinders 1 and 3 are on opposite sides of the engine, so it's not quite as simple as replacing one head gasket.

[jlrftype7]