Cleaning heat risers

[gt1953]

Yep I drilled holes at the elbows, then used a masonry bit then the cable thing. The masonry bit did the best.
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[viiking]

[bobinphx]

My 69 mystery motor apparently had been run very rich. (jet were way off).when I got it. The heat risers were will plugged. I used a combination of things. First and initially effective was some cable. I used some from the hardware store that was a bit smaller than a clutch cable. after I got in a ways, I filled / soaked the risers in Marvels mystery oil. I feel that the oil penetrated the carbon and broke up some of its bond. Once I got a small path from one side to the other opened up, out came the acetylene torch. The torch got the path really opened up. Because of the oil and the carbon, I was able to turn off the oxygen and just run pure acetylene. lots of bits of flaming carbon came out. In the end I was able to easily blow through the heat risers. I will tell you that none of it was easy or fast. All told, took about 4 hours over a couple of days, and it was messy!

[viiking]

Interesting that you turned the oxygen off. Acetylene (or any gas) doesn't burn on its own. It needs oxygen. It must have got some small amount of oxygen from the air. The reaction would have been more spectacular and quick if you had got it alight and then turned off the acetylene, leaving the oxygen to do the burning (oxidation).
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1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[scottyrocks]

I'm back to the cable for cleaning the crud off the inside of the tube.

Braided steel cable and a wound drain auger have been inadequate.

Yesterday I got the bright idea of trying an oil dip stick. I bought a universal one, bent the end slightly, and ground the edge sharp, then cut off the handle and put it in my drill chuck.

I thought I was doing okay as the length of it seemed to be dropping into the hole as I spun it with the drill. What was actually happening, though, is that the end of it kept breaking off. So now I've got bits of dip stick down both sides of the heater tubes in addition to the impacted carbon.

I am now researching flexible extensions that I can screw an actual short drill bit into the end of. Heading to Harbor Freight tomorrow, as they seem to have the closest thing to what I am looking for.
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“If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
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[Xevin]

Scottyrocks. Can’t remember, did you say you used a BFH on that already? Worked like a charm on mine. Followed by a cable. I appreciate your “Sticktoitiveness” I would have have pitched that in the bin by now. Get it!!
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[bobinphx]

yep,, got that backwards.. turned off the acetylene, once the carbon was burning, thus only feeding oxygen.

[scottyrocks]

[avw1973]

I had some spare manifolds. They were plugged and first I tried the cable - nope. Then brake cleaner soak - nope. Turned the bbq on medium high and left it for an hour. Tapped lightly with a small ball peen. BINGO! A rain of carbon chunks. Finished with a clutch cable and air hose. Worked.

[scottyrocks]

Okay, great. I have a charcoal grill with a cover. I'll light it up and try it on a 2nd unit I have that is cracked. If it works on that one, I'll put the good one in there. Thanks!

I assume you hit it when it's hot?
_________________
“If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch'

[avw1973]

I use the bbq tongs to remove and let it cool a little and use gloves to handle Just tap and the carbon will fall out. Blow air through to see if it is clear. Worked for me the first time. If yours doesn't clear, I guess, try again.

[Cusser]

I had to drill mine

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[scottyrocks]

[avw1973]

I can use the bbq for manifolds. But, no more engine cases and heads in the dishwasher - darn

[scottyrocks]

I finally got to a friend with an enclosed gas grill and baked my manifold for an hour.

After some wacking with a hammer, and drilling with a cable and 24" long, 1/4" drill bit, I can now get all the way through.

I am sure, however, there is some, let's call it 'arterial plaque' inside the tube, so now that it's somewhat clear, I think I will bake it again and bang it some more so that what carbon is left has someplace to go when it breaks off.
_________________
“If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch'

[Zundfolge1432]

You deserve a round of applause for hanging with it not giving up. When that works you’ll have a better running engine.

[scottyrocks]

I decided to not grill the manifold again. I finally found 4 consecutive hours today to get into the heat riser with a drill and cable.

Next, after cleaning it up and patching the elbows and paint, it will be ready for re-installation.
_________________
“If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch'

[calvinater]

Brilliant!
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[Marcdeb]

This is a very helpful thread. I did a lot of reading before tackling this job and I decided I would give the cable/drill method a try. I didn't have any clutch cables but I did have an old 1/4 inch drain snake which worked great, and although I had mine on hand, these only cost like $10 or so.

I was able to snake up to the straight section from both sides but all of the straight section was clogged. It took me about an hour including clean up and it was done. The 1/4" drain snake is perfect for this because being coiled makes it very flexible but the wire that it's made of is rugged and doesn't bend very easily. I bent the end into a spike which can be pointed at what ever angle needed. It worked better in the beginning to keep the end mostly straight until it broke through, and then angled it outwards to enlarge the hole.

Once I started, I made it through in about 15 minutes and then another 15 minutes to enlarge it.

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Marc
68 Karmann Ghia Cabrio Autostick
71 Karmann Ghia Cabrio

Previously Owned:
2011 VW EOS Hard Top Conv
2008 Saab 9-3 2.0T Conv
2003 Saab 9-3 SE Conv
2001 Saab 9-3 Conv
1998 BMW 3 Series Conv
1997 Saab 900 Conv
1997 Mazda Miata

68 Ghia Vert Survivor with 22,350 miles: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=768107&highlight=
71 Ghia Vert Restoration: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=726710&postorder=asc

[scottyrocks]

That^ looks like a great idea.

My tubes were so caked and clogged that I had to drill in through the elbow to make any progress past the bend. The cable in the drill just wasn't cutting it (literally).
_________________
“If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch'